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Trick I learned from a stealership friend of mine for taking off the fan, he used an air chisel, positioning the cutting blade at a favorable angle to the nut he gave the trigger a couple of taps, the blade came unscrewed straight away.

doc
 

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Older than old school
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Discussion Starter #62
An air chisel might be a tight fit in there.

 

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For all you Evans NPG users out there: Rather than using water to flush out the old coolant and then blowing out the residual water with compressed air, wouldn't it be just as good to blow out the system with air first and then run the NPG Prep through it? If you're using the NPG prep, which is hygroscopic, you're already getting rid of the residual water, which is what needs to go away. Why introduce additional water? I'm going to talk to the Evans people about it, and unless I can be persuaded otherwise, I think I'll just use compressed air, then the NPG prep and more compressed air before adding the coolant.
I don't use NPG Prep.
I felt I wanted to flush the system with something solid and pressurized, garden hose worked great.
And the air makes sure most if not all water is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
That makes sense, Alex.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I just discovered a good reason to empty the Mityvac right after you use it.



I didn't know the oil could siphon back out if the hose end dropped to ground level, and in moving things around before I closed up the garage last night, I must've knocked the hose to the floor.



It was nearly full when I closed the garage door last night. Looks like I'm off to the store to get a nice big bag of Kitty Litter.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
At least I picked a good day for this. Pet Food Express was having a "buy three 20# bags of Johnny Cat and get one free" sale.
 

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Bob, when you finish with the oil on the floor and getting the carbon off the valves, I've got another thing for you to check.
With the vanos solenoids unscrewed there is a check valve behind them that can be easily removed and cleaned. If it's got crud in it and doesn't close the oil in the vanos can drain back into the block which can cause some startup rattle.
You don't need to strip the head like in the pic, just remove the vanos solenoid and get a bolt that will thread into the front of the CV a few turns, it will pull right out.



Doubt your pulling the heads, but while I'm at it there are 2 check valves in the block that also keep oil from draining back when the engine is off.
They pull right out too after the heads are off.





 

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Discussion Starter #71
Bob, when you finish with the oil on the floor and getting the carbon off the valves, I've got another thing for you to check.
With the vanos solenoids unscrewed there is a check valve behind them that can be easily removed and cleaned. If it's got crud in it and doesn't close the oil in the vanos can drain back into the block which can cause some startup rattle.
You don't need to strip the head like in the pic, just remove the vanos solenoid and get a bolt that will thread into the front of the CV a few turns, it will pull right out.

You're right, Jim. I'm not even tempted to pull the heads, but this looks like a great tip, and I'll be sure to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Okay, this is an official call out on my lifeline to 540 owners who've removed the rear water accumulator. Is there some sort of cool trick that helps you get a wrench or socket on the innermost bolt on each side of the accumulator (#3 in the picture below)?



It's so awkward trying to reach in there, and my stepstool keeps sliding out from under me when I lean into the engine compartment. Maybe I'll have to lower the car off the jack stands to get at it. That way, I can raise the hood some more and lean over it more easily.

Any other helpful ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Here's another shot of what I'm trying to reach--the bolts on the inside of each branch of the accumulator:

 

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Otto Zwei-Punkt-Null
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Not a 540i owner. but is hood removal an option for you?
 

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my car was on the ground when i removed the rear water manifold, dont recall there being any problems getting it out. also had all those hoses removed as i was replacing them preventatively as well.

so, yes, sounds like a platform of some sort would help or just lowering the car back down...

Edit: just a note,when i was planning for this job i read more than one account of one of those water manifold bolts breaking due to over-torquing when re-installing. Just a heads up to be careful when you're buttoning it back up
 

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but is hood removal an option for you?
+1.
Bob, if you haven't done this yet, I recommend putting the hood in the service position.

my car was on the ground when i removed the rear water manifold, dont recall there being any problems getting it out. also had all those hoses removed as i was replacing them preventatively as well.

so, yes, sounds like a platform of some sort would help or just lowering the car back down...
Same here, don't remember it being a problem. Last night I removed the top engine cover and was able to get at the bolts. On the driver side the heater hoses are in the way so remove them first. You can try getting to the bolts from under the car, looks like it might work... Or lower the car back down.
 

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Otto Zwei-Punkt-Null
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There is a service possition? How?
 

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There is a service possition? How?
You disconnect the shocks on both sides, that will allow you to lift the hood to a nearly vertical position.
There are two holes in the hinge on the driver's side, one is threaded and the other is not.
Raise the hood until the holes are aligned and use an M8x1.25 bolt to lock the hood in that position.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
my car was on the ground when i removed the rear water manifold, dont recall there being any problems getting it out. also had all those hoses removed as i was replacing them preventatively as well.

so, yes, sounds like a platform of some sort would help or just lowering the car back down...

Edit: just a note,when i was planning for this job i read more than one account of one of those water manifold bolts breaking due to over-torquing when re-installing. Just a heads up to be careful when you're buttoning it back up
Thanks, MNG. Having one of those bolts break off would be a below-average experience, for sure. That brings up a question. I just don't see a way to use a torque wrench on the bolts with the engine the car, unless there's a tool I'm unaware of.

JDeGraff89, hood removal would be a last resort for me, maybe if my frustration level left me with no alternative. I really don't want to mess around with trying to line it up properly again.

Alex, here's what I wrote, buried in the middle of post #17:

I was really looking forward to putting the hood up in the "service position," opened at a 90 degree angle so that I'd have plenty of clearance. It was a little bit of a fuss to slide out the retaining clips for the telescopic struts, partly because I wasn't confident that they just slid straight back, at 90 degrees to the strut, but after prying this way and that, I figured it out, and with the help of a friend, pulled off the struts and...oops. The hood was so tall that it wouldn't clear the garage ceiling. Disappointed but undaunted, I reattached the struts and slid the clips home.
So it looks like at the very least, I'll have to put the car down on the ground again as MNG suggested and see how high I can prop the hood up. I'd roll the car out of the garage to put the hood in the service position, but the driveway immediately drops off downhill, and it would be hell pushing the car back into the garage.
 

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you are correct, on those bolts i couldnt angle a torque wrench in there so just got them 'snug'...i went in a side to side and zig zag pattern to hopefully distribute the force evenly

Its coming back to me now - also read about a guy that over tightened and cracked the manifold itself (didnt notice at first so coolant went spilling once he tried to refill and bleed the system)
 
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