At what points do you shift a 323i (manual) to get max acceleration?
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redline???
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Yep, but if you're just out to have fun I find that a hard 4-5k RPM shift gives the best squeal into second. 
It's redline for me or nothin'...
Seriously though, I have found that shifting at around 5K~5.5K gives me the best acceleration, and I seem to be able to shift into the next gear and keep the rpm's up easier.
My 2c
Seriously though, I have found that shifting at around 5K~5.5K gives me the best acceleration, and I seem to be able to shift into the next gear and keep the rpm's up easier.
My 2c
you are able to chirp the tires going into 2nd?? I can barely chirp them in 1st
Mystikal said:Yep, but if you're just out to have fun I find that a hard 4-5k RPM shift gives the best squeal into second.
G
The short answer is redline.
The slightly longer answer is to determine by feel where (in terms of RPM) the power drops off. Hold a gear as the revs build and you will feel a point where you quit pulling stronger and the power actually drops off a bit. Your max accel will happen if you shift just as the revs pass the max power point.
Of course, if you were to look at dyno graphs of your engine, you'd see what you're feeling. But, personally, I think these things are best learned by feel than by some form of rote memorization.
The slightly longer answer is to determine by feel where (in terms of RPM) the power drops off. Hold a gear as the revs build and you will feel a point where you quit pulling stronger and the power actually drops off a bit. Your max accel will happen if you shift just as the revs pass the max power point.
Of course, if you were to look at dyno graphs of your engine, you'd see what you're feeling. But, personally, I think these things are best learned by feel than by some form of rote memorization.
You are not popping the clutch enough when you shift. I found in my 323 that if I banged the 1-2 shift quickly enough and got on the gas hard just as I was very quickly releasing the clutch, I'd get a nice chirp from the rears (and that was with the SP tires). Of course, a clutch dump with DSC off in 1st could produce as much wheelspin as I needed, but because of the peg-leg diff, it was only on one wheel.
The disclaimer is that none of this stuff is very good for the car. You're a lot better off not abusing your drivetrain this way, and living without the chirp.
The disclaimer is that none of this stuff is very good for the car. You're a lot better off not abusing your drivetrain this way, and living without the chirp.
trkmedic69 said:
His 18" wheels and tires probably don't help.
You'd probably get a bit more lively acceleration from some lighter weight 16" wheels. I can't imagine those 18's could be very light unless they're high end forged or magnesium wheels.
Nick325xiT 5spd said:
I would say to start your shift about at 5500...
no you're right :dunno: - though i like the way the wheels i have look on my car, they aren't the lightest I could've gotten... They are about 25-27lbs each I believe. It was between them and some BBS RC or RK's - and I think in retrospect I may have chosen otherwise (including considering other than BBS)... But overall I should've gone lighter. The plus is the S-03's are stupendous....
Call it shallow or stupid - but I love the look of 18's and probably wouldn't go any bigger or smaller... :thumb:
Call it shallow or stupid - but I love the look of 18's and probably wouldn't go any bigger or smaller... :thumb:
geomax said:
Nah, ntohing wrong with it. They look really nice and they're good for turn in response.
I've come to the conclusion that if I get a set of aftermarket wheels, they'll be 16", though. Something ultra-light like the SSRs. I want the acceleration and figure that S-03s will make up for the loss of rigidity.
I've come to the conclusion that if I get a set of aftermarket wheels, they'll be 16", though. Something ultra-light like the SSRs. I want the acceleration and figure that S-03s will make up for the loss of rigidity.
25-27, hhmm, thats not too bad considering the size. I think my 44's weigh about 26. But weight is weight - Nick, those SSR's are about what, 15 lbs?
Still, there is a good thing about heavy wheels - durability.
Still, there is a good thing about heavy wheels - durability.
trkmedic69 said:
FYI - here is a good site with the weights of a bunch of different wheels:
http://www.wheelweights.net/
http://www.wheelweights.net/
Heavier wheels do not always mean more durable, best example would be any OEM 17 BMW Wheels (excluding the forged M3 wheels) and SSR Competitions..... the BMW's weigh over 25lbs while the SSR Competitions weigh less than 15lbs. Which ones are stronger? SSR by far because the are made from a SSF process and not casting.
geomax said:
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