Battery replaced now feels like brakes are being applied while driving

Which motor? My wife's 50i had very heavy engine braking. When going slow and let of the brakes it felt like the brakes were on.

Cycle the parking brakes to make sure they are released.

My 35i has noticable engine braking as well.

If you have an IR thermometer, you can meausure all the rotors to determine if any are dragging by doing the same around the block tour at 20.

Lonestar68 said:

Replaced battery and registered the battery with no issues, I was able to reset 4x4, ABS and Brake systems. with no issues. I am seeing a Transfer Box VTG fault that I can't seem to clear. But I have no codes or lights showing when reading codes both in the engine and transmission. Issue with car seems to be that when driving it feels as if the brakes are being applied. If you let of the gas the car feels like it is having the breaks applied. Also, you can feel the load when accelerating. I have not taken the car over 20 miles an hour since changing the battery I only drove it around the block trying to figure out what was going on.

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It has the 3.0li just recently bought the car so I have driven it less than 100 miles but it did not feel that way prior to the battery change

Also plan to do the IR test as well

What is the specific transfer case fault?


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When you read the codes for the transmission there are no codes pending

Will that scanner pull up the specific code # for the transfer case?

I will try when I get home

After a few miles driving and no heavy braking, are your wheels hot to the touch in the center area ?
If your brakes drag even slightly, they'll heat up. If one drags, that wheel will be hot.

Slightly warm is ok, by hot I mean - borderline uncomfortable to keep your hand on for a long time.

If your wheels are cold, then I'd worry about that VTG error for real.
Also, make sure your front and rear tires are of the same size (height).

Ok so update this morning I drove it around 30 miles and Joe for a mile or so and three of the four rotors where at 107f and the left rear was 130f I would assume that is the one the bark brake uses? Also the transfer box VTG fault cleared with the driving. I actually went trough all systems and there are no faults with the exception of 54C6 code. I went through engine, transmission, chassis and all was clear.

54c6 is a transfer case age fault. If you have never changed the TC fluid then you should. I suspect one of your calipers are sticking.


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Parking brake should have dedicated shoes or pads, and I'm not sure how close they are to the wheel (they might be, or not). As mentioned above, more likely caliper sticking.

the sole purpose of a car battery is to start the car, that's all, when running the alternator takes over, battery also to run devices when the motor is not running and to keep functions up when car is parked... what ever the cause, changing the battery is not the cause, however, did you spark the contacts, did you remove negative first and fit last.

Ok so update this morning I drove it around 30 miles an or so and three of the four rotors where at 107f and the left rear was 130f I would assume that is the one the bark brake uses? Also the transfer box VTG fault cleared with the driving. I actually went trough all systems and there are no faults with the exception of 54C6

jaye944 said:

the sole purpose of a car battery is to start the car, that's all, when running the alternator takes over, battery also to run devices when the motor is not running and to keep functions up when car is parked... what ever the cause, changing the battery is not the cause, however, did you spark the contacts, did you remove negative first and fit last.

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Yes always remove ground first and replace last. No sparking at all. I would agree with caliper sticking but prior to the battery change it was fine. Could it be a coincidence sure anything is possible. Just still think it’s electrical in my mind.

My scanner will show the park brake clamping force. Did you apply/released parking brakes? PB uses both sides.

The disk brake will affect the disk part of the rotor more and the parking brake will affect the hat part of the rotor more. Did you measure the hat or the disk or both?

jaye944 said:

the sole purpose of a car battery is to start the car, that's all, when running the alternator takes over, battery also to run devices when the motor is not running and to keep functions up when car is parked... what ever the cause, changing the battery is not the cause, however, did you spark the contacts, did you remove negative first and fit last.

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That's mostly true. The battery acts like a giant capacitor to keep DC voltage constant but also on BMWs after about 2007 the alternator turns off a lot to run off the battery and turns on when you are off throttle to use "free energy" of the motor slowing down to charge the battery so it gets a lot of use vs. the old school way described above.

there's a procedure to calibrate the parking brake to make sure that's not dragging. I remember doing it when I replaced rear rotors. There's also a function in the foxwell to release parking brake for service. You could execute that and then go for a test drive. If left rear gets got then, definitely caliper.

andrewwynn said:

That's mostly true. The battery acts like a giant capacitor to keep DC voltage constant but also on BMWs after about 2007 the alternator turns off a lot to run off the battery and turns on when you are off throttle to use "free energy" of the motor slowing down to charge the battery so it gets a lot of use vs. the old school way described above.

there's a procedure to calibrate the parking brake to make sure that's not dragging. I remember doing it when I replaced rear rotors. There's also a function in the foxwell to release parking brake for service. You could execute that and then go for a test drive. If left rear gets got then, definitely caliper.

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That’s great info, I was not aware that’s what BMW does in regards to cycling the alternator. I miss the old school days where the battery was there to start the car and keep your radio stations in memory. Lol this is my first experience with a BMW. I have learned a lot in just these first few weeks oh owning the car. I have worked on my own cars my whole life but this is a cat of a different color.

although that is correct, I wouldn't lay much faith in using it as a test tool, your battery is NOT going to supply all the car's needs all the time and as good as an alternator cab, in winter, electric seats, defroster, blowers, headlights, nope, under ideal circumstances it'll do something, but not a great deal... basically it's BMW's way of on paper showing how much ECO efficient the car is. On an EV or maybe a Hybrid yes, on your standard 4 banger petrol engine, nope. Best put your faith in 2 certainties, 1 Battery starts car 2 Alternator runs car, no matter how much tech goes into the cars or how much hype to get it past emissions, that is a 100% fact. There is also no way to check that in real world, you cant' tell when the alternator or battery is operating.
I would even say it's more of a ghost effect, If your car dont start... battery, if you car starts and dont run... alternator
if your brakes dont work, it's neither battery or alternator