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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2003 x5. The previous owner added head gasket sealer to the cooling system. The sealer had some type of particulate material in it. It clogged the metal coolant pipe (below the intake manifold).


I removed the metal tube (and that's how I found that the metal tube was clogged). I cleaned it out. Looked like it was filled with gray mud. Anyways, I got everything put back together.

I have completely flushed the engine clean. I'm wondering if Blue Devil HG sealer will be successful in sealing the HG...............Blue Devil is a liquid chemical with no solids or particulates.

I replaced the heater control valve.
I replaced the Thermostat.
I replaced the water pump.

Engine does not misfire while running.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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24,009 Posts
Blue Devil is a ~70% mixture of sodium silicate and antifreeze. Sodium silicate is definitely a solid commonly known as waterglass. It is used to destroy motors to comply with federal cash for clunkers program.
 

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BeeemerBro
5,4,6 BMW X3 All...196K +
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5,130 Posts
I learned to stay far away from the blue devil or any of that kind of stuff...i was told simply that it fills holes and there are pathways that are not intended to be closed (for the bmw) but the stuff has no brain all its programmed to do is plug a gap!

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I learned to stay far away from the blue devil or any of that kind of stuff...i was told simply that it fills holes and there are pathways that are not intended to be closed (for the bmw) but the stuff has no brain all its programmed to do is plug a gap!

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
Last night I let the engine idle till warm. Shut the engine off. Well, this morning I went outside and the temp needle is completely at the cold mark. I removed the cap on the expansion tank and there was still pressure in the system (which I did not expect.

I'm going to remove the thermostat and run it like that and see what happens.

There is a tiny hole in the thermostat housing designed to bleed out air during a refill. I am going to drill that hole larger so the Blue Devil wont plug it up. (I have many spare BMW parts from previous 1999-2005 3 and 5 Series cars).

I'm going to completely by pass the heater core & heater control valve so the BD doesn't flow thru those areas.

This is one of many BMW's of this era that I have owned, but this is actually the first x5.

I buy the 3 and 5 Series cars inexpensively needing major mechanical repairs IE: motor or transmission replacements. I normally just replace the engine or transmission in them to get them back on the road.

Just so you know, my level of experience is such that I can remove & replace motors with transmissions attached in 6 hours. I have all the proper/specific tools. I figure if I spend a couple hundred $$$ getting this x5 running properly I'll give it to my daughter.....but if I have to buy a replacement engine, I will definately resell to keep the cash flow flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE: So I tried out the Blue Devil stuff......It DID stop coolant from entering the combustion chamber (cylinders 1 and 2 were getting moisture in them), however the Blue Devil stuff did not stop exhaust pressure from entering the coolant system. I performed a leak down test and discovered that cylinder 5 leaks.......eh.
Looks like I'll be replacing the engine. No biggie. So much for the miracle-in-a-bottle method.

Hmm.....what if I add 15 degrees of rotation to the head bolts to tighten the head down a little more???? Nah, wishful thinking..

Anyhow, I have another question:
What are some things I need to look out for when removing the engine & transmission from the x5 specific chassis? I've pulled many motors/transmissions from E39 and E46 cars......but never any from an E53.

My process for removing the motors from those cars are (basically) as follows:
Remove head lights.
Remove bumper, electric fan, radiators, front support panel all as a single unit.
Lower subframe, leave suspension connected so the frame "hangs" down.
Disconnect necessary wires, hoses, pipes, bolts/nuts, etc.
Pull motor with trans straight out the front of the vehicle.

If possible, I'd like to separate the motor from the transmission, but I refuse to do it if it means frustration and difficulty accessing the trans bolts.

Would this be the same process with the x5 chassis?
Do I have to lower the frame (to clear the oil pan)?
Is there enough room to remove the E bolts which secure the transmission to the engine? If so, I will go that route. If not (which is the case with the 3 & 5 series cars, I'll pull both as a single unit.
 
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