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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 BMW 128I with 28K miles that we have had fro 2 1/2 years. when we bought it the bragged about bumper to bumper waranty and the quality of the product. Well I just found out when the look at the fault codes the have some the say "blaim the customer". turns out they would not replace the defective batterybecause it regestered code 73. Then they proceded to tell me it was my fault because I left the key in the car. Which I thought strange since the key was in my wifes purse and does not need to be in the ignition to start. Then I got schooled on how to properly hit the button "twice" to turn the car I had been driving for 2.5 years off. Long story short and $362 later I had to pay for a new battery. When I went to pick it up the gave me the reason it was my fault. "Unfavorable driving profile" the battery can be depleted due to unfavorable driving caracteristics of the customer.
Unfavorable driving profile
The battery can be depleted due to unfavorable driving characteristics of the customer:
- In the case of extreme short-distance driving, it is possible that starting the engine takes more energy from the battery than is charged in the subsequent trip. The charge balance deteriorates if a great many current consumers are switched on during the subsequent trip.
- Very few trips: If the vehicle is moved very infrequently and the individual trips are not sufficiently long, it is possible that during the immobilization period more energy is taken from the battery by normal closed-circuit current than is charged while the vehicle is being driven.
If possible, point out these facts to the customer.
Has any one had any luck with BMW on this?
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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I had a similar situation on my '09 MINI Cooper S. I drove it for two years no problems then my wife started using it to get to her job. She drove only 5-7 miles each way and used the lights, seat heaters, etc. We then started to get the low battery dash warnings. I tried hard to get the dealer to replace the battery and they explained the same story about user profile. I didn't believe them at first but when I looked at the actual change in driving patterns, it seemed they had a point. I went out and bought a battery maintainer and use it regularly. It also de-sulfates the battery so it should be good for a long while. At this point it has been almost a year since we had any low battery warnings. I am still not convinced the battery is not weak, but my warranty is good till the end of Dec. I suggest you buy a Battery Minder for about $35 and use it whenever practical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have battery minders however there were no warnings just a dead battery which is very common in Arizona when the weather switches. Usually it is first few days of heat or first cold snap. That said my 2003 ford truck is used less and we have no issues with a $70 Interstate Battery which is good for 5 years with no question. Not sure why a BMW that lasts 2 years is worth $486.00 which is what they tried to charge me. Then out of the blue they decided maybe I could have it for $362. In addition we have a 1999 suburban in the mountains which gets used once a year for hunting battery is 6 years old and all we did was put a disconnect on it so it would not drain while sitting. Both the MINI and BMW have electronic drains which are much more the problem than the driving.
 

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a I agree with you that the dealer was not reasonable. While it might deplete a battery to only drive short trips it should not ruin a battery. There have been several reports of premature battery replacements in 1 series. I would have argued more and replaced it myself if they did not cover under warranty. I can make the software updates, or at least i think I can so there is no reason I can't replace a bimmer battery at reasonable cost.

Jim
 

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I have battery minders however there were no warnings just a dead battery which is very common in Arizona when the weather switches. Usually it is first few days of heat or first cold snap. That said my 2003 ford truck is used less and we have no issues with a $70 Interstate Battery which is good for 5 years with no question. Not sure why a BMW that lasts 2 years is worth $486.00 which is what they tried to charge me. Then out of the blue they decided maybe I could have it for $362. In addition we have a 1999 suburban in the mountains which gets used once a year for hunting battery is 6 years old and all we did was put a disconnect on it so it would not drain while sitting. Both the MINI and BMW have electronic drains which are much more the problem than the driving.
Modern BMW's cannot be compared to older model domestics as our cars are chocked full of electrical gizmo's and step motors that put a tremendous drain on our batteries. We're retired so our car doesn't get driven anywhere close to daily. Ours stays on a tender almost all the time it's not being driven and we've never had a battery problem in 5 years and 118,000 miles. I even mounted my charger to a padded board so it's quick and easy to just "throw it on the car".

 

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Most good BMW shops will reset the registration for you for nothing. They will also reset the computer if you get the oil changed for free. They know you will come back to them when something else needs done.
I would love to know which dealer will do that (this car is under warranty)! Every dealership I've ever known will charge you an hours labor just to look at the car. Which is pretty standard. A BMW master tech can make 6 figures. You cannot cover that salary and all the overhead by giving service away and most will not do it. Trust me on this. My dad was a GM tech for 38 years.
 

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I said shop not dealer. I meant shop. Use your google machine to find a BMW shop in your area. I let them do my oil changes most of time because I am lazy. But build a relationship, it's good to have when something really goes wrong. The point of the comment was to always stay away from dealers, unless it's covered.
 

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I said shop not dealer. I meant shop. Use your google machine to find a BMW shop in your area. I let them do my oil changes most of time because I am lazy. But build a relationship, it's good to have when something really goes wrong. The point of the comment was to always stay away from dealers, unless it's covered.
To each his own but there is NO WAY I would ever have such a thing done on a BMW under warranty. And you can save the condescending "Use your google machine" comments for somebody else. OK sport? :thumbup:
 

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The google machine is a reference that you missed. Didn't mean to offend. :cry:
I didn't miss anything..... You told me to Google it in your own supposedly clever way and I know full well how to find indie BMW shops.

Since you're into schooling people let me school you. The best way to find a BMW shop is with http://www.bimrs.org/ not google.

And let me get something straight.... You are suggesting that you take a BMW (that's under warranty) with a dead battery from the dealership down to Pep boys, walmart, etc. etc. etc. , install the battery and then drive it to your local indie shop and have them register the new battery.

First of all how are you going to get it there? If you say jump it and drive it..... How about you using your "google machine" to get the definition of "alternator death".

And you did not offend. I've go too many birthdays behind me to get offended by people in person let alone on line. The term you should have used is "raised my ire". ;)
 

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I was correct using :cry:. If you jump the car then drive to walmart and have the new battery put in you save $200. Even if you get the registration updated, which is not an emergency, but should be done, you save $$$. Why on earth would someone as old as you honestly insinuate that only a dealer can change a battery? Really? You must really love keeping them in business. BTW you could also save yourself $100 if you took it to the indie for that battery if you really don't trust walmart, which you should, I have used them and never had an issue. Last post I'm out. :D
 

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I was correct using :cry:. If you jump the car then drive to walmart and have the new battery put in you save $200. Even if you get the registration updated, which is not an emergency, but should be done, you save $$$. Why on earth would someone as old as you honestly insinuate that only a dealer can change a battery? Really? You must really love keeping them in business. BTW you could also save yourself $100 if you took it to the indie for that battery if you really don't trust walmart, which you should, I have used them and never had an issue. Last post I'm out. :D
Now you didn't do your homework like I told you. :tsk:

I'll help you... but just this once.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_a_discharged_battery_damage_the_alternator
 

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I was correct using :cry:. If you jump the car then drive to walmart and have the new battery put in you save $200. Even if you get the registration updated, which is not an emergency, but should be done, you save $$$. Why on earth would someone as old as you honestly insinuate that only a dealer can change a battery? Really? You must really love keeping them in business. BTW you could also save yourself $100 if you took it to the indie for that battery if you really don't trust walmart, which you should, I have used them and never had an issue. Last post I'm out. :D
:rofl: You really will be "out" if you keep using Chinese parts on your German BMW :rofl:

Whatever.
 

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Most important question of all...why would you buy a battery from a BMW dealer?!? Pep boys, walmart, etc. etc. etc.
I think after 2006 all BMW vehicles have to use the BMW made battery and the vehicle has to be taken to the dealer so they can program the charging system to the battery. According to them if you use an aftermarket battery they would not be able to match them and your new battery will not last very long or it can damage your charging system.

I have battery tender on all my vehicles! they will save you a lot of money in the long run.
 

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I am mad at myself for this, I said last post :mad:. But I have to correct the moron with the chinese comment. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327816

My friend you are dead wrong. Battery is a battery. Hundreds of people have decided to not pay the exorbitant prices the dealers charge for the batteries and I have NEVER seen a post that says, gee my car is all screwed up now. NEVER.

+1 on the tender. I am military so it's a requirement for me, but I use it over long weekends too if I am going to be leaving the car in the garage.
 

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I wouldn't assume a dead battery is an alternator issue, especially when it is easy to know. An alternator puts out over 14V and a charged battery about 13V. With the engine running above idle speed, measure the voltage. If it's over 14V, the alternator works. My favorite tool these days for a battery, "won't start" issue is my $20 HF battery tester. You have to charge the battery to test it but then you can measure the CCA and know if the battery is OK. Even before that you can jump the car and measure voltage to see if you have a charging problem. Handy tool.


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