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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm new to BMW e36 316i 1995 M43 Engine...., this is really my dream car since was a kid...., so I buy the OLD BMW last Month May 2017.

on the first month I look at the Engine OIL was 1 bar next to Empty(so I keep on driving)
I suspect that was the issue of not cranking or starting.... if I look at the OIL sensor in the panel...still 1 bar next to empty.


Story:

1 day I park the car, check the fuel pump if it's still good, because the first issue was a hard cold starting... I have to push the accelerator foot to balance the fuel injection pump so that the carburetor won't stop or the engine won't stop.

First Step I made was to changed all 4 spark plugs... I push the threads mush so that it will take much spark I think... so it was starting(but not much as the first 4 original spark plugs), but still it started by hard so it was still Ok for me that new spark plugs was installed.

Second step I change fuel filter(old fuel filter was so dirty and bad, rubber filter inside the fuel filter was destroyed into pieces I see), so changing the fuel filter did not solved the issue.

Still a hard crank or hard starting issue.

Third step, to be sure that the FUEL PUMP is good, I removed(disconnect) the wire(under the back-seat, not the sensor) then start...so it crank but not starting....... I connect the 2 wires again... so it crank and start hard(but with accelerator foot so the car won't stop)...

I removed or disconnected AGAIN the 2 wire to be sure it's not really pumping... so it was not.... SO I connect the wires again... I heard the FUEL PUMP hamming and I think the pump is OK(but CAR did not start yet, I ONLY switch the key ON to hear the hamming).

I start to crank now for a test, THEN NOW the car would not CRANK or START.

since it's not cranking or starting(I buy the time), I clean the fuel PUMP plastic filter because it's a bit BLACK, so then it was WHITE back gain... I installed it back.

Again I turn-ON the Key to Start, its not cranking or starting.... it's just turning the key to click start but no crank at all, just like nothing happen....

I full charge the battery 12.4 volts... I did not see dim lights during a test to start together with the lights.

I tested 2 car batteries that worked to my DIESEL Engine Toyota Town-Ace, so I'm so sure that batteries are good.

I also check the fuses are good.... and I think the relay are good too(but I doubt which one to check).


I doubt now was about the OIL sensor...because it was too low next to Empty?

I hope BMW experts here can help me fix my dream car, this is the reason why I registered and I'm willing to help too soon and become active here.


thank you
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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Welcome to Bimmerfest!

The oil sensor has nothing to do with the hard start/no start condition. It will NOT keep the car from starting or running if it is out of oil.

The problem is a severely clogged fuel system. If the fuel filter was "destroyed" as you said, there's no doubt some of the contamination reached the carb. It sounds like the car was flooding with fuel when you were cranking it. Holding the throttle open allowed just enough air in so that it would start, but then ran rough, since it was still flooding. You'll have to tear down the carburetor and clean it. Most likely the float valve is stuck open.

This is really strange talking about an E36 with a carburetor....99% of them we're familiar with are fuel injected, but I understand the M43 had a carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

OK, let's removed the cold start issue cause by dirty carburetor as you said!, because now my real big problem that the engine won't start at all, ,won't crank at first, clicking the key ON to engine start nothing happen, it's just like you turn ON the key with no sound, no dim lights(full charged battery, battery starts to my Old Toyota Town-Ace).

Does dirty carburetor turn-OFF the engine to crank or start that nothing happens when you key ON?
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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No, you have an electrical problem if nothing happens when you turn the key to start. The carburetor has no control over the starter circuit. Test for 12 volts at the large terminal on the starter solenoid. It should have 12 volts there continuously. Test for 12 volts at the small terminal on the solenoid that has the black and yellow wire going to it. That should have 12 volts when the key is turned to START. If you have no voltage at the big terminal, you have a bad connection to the starter, either at the battery, the battery ground, the starter or the starter ground. If you have no voltage at the small terminal with the key turned to start, you have a bad starter relay, a bad ignition switch or a blown fuse.

Have you even checked the fuses? I mean used a meter on them, not just looked at them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, I will let you know when I done all the testing,
I think your right about that no crank start issue,
because I noticed when it rains hard there is 1 time last week that it never crank,
I check the battery was drained,
so maybe it's grounded and the starter was damage(grounded) because in front the rain or water can get inside the hood because of the damage rubber.


by the way,
The cold hard start and maybe because of dirty carburetor?, But when the engine is hot the idle remain normal(high or low idle), I don't have to pump the accelerator, that can be the dirty carburetor too?
 

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Run wire from jump box under hood to a switch and run a wire from starter to same switch s switch mine did this 2 year's ago the car will crank again at that point if the rest of car has power i really beleave it WILL Start ur crank sensor was the main cause of the ruff start and hesitation and it finally gave out.. you cranked and cranked now ur cars dead it won't do nothing my wire twisted somehow where the wire goes in to the sensor kept turning but never came out prob something to do with the magnet but if u run direct to the starter key just needs to be in on position flip switch then flip it back off to kill starter once car starts when u keep trying to start these cars it kills something that I can't figure out yet and key wont start the car and check for collapsed fuel line around pump and around tank when u broke the system apart some chunky **** moved that was holding that line open if u can't get gas and erythings new like ur filter and bowed out lines look around tank.... said it twice I've seen plenty bm' s junked cause that **** and theses shops can't figure it out sad hope this some use to yall remove the crank sensor see if that end need twisting around and around

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Keeps twisting if so it's bad or test it see what's bouncing back utube how to test crank sensor easy

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
@hornhospital and @wardjustinn,

I will try to do your solutions both, because I still believed its not because of the starter motor, (if it's a starter motor then the easiest way to find out that the motor not cranking is to push the car forward so that the starter motor will SPIN), I did that but same thing happen, no ignition start.

>>Test for 12 volts at the large terminal on the starter solenoid. It should have 12 volts there continuously
Checked on that, yes it has a live 12 volts

>>Test for 12 volts at the small terminal on the solenoid that has the black and yellow wire going to it. That should have 12 volts when the key is turned to START
I will check again tomorrow....,,, but I think I have check the small terminal too.... not sure, Ill check back tomorrow.... GOT to try this...

>>If you have no voltage at the small terminal with the key turned to start, you have a bad starter relay, a bad ignition switch or a blown fuse.
I doubt the starter relay under the steering wheel?
this one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC8A0WtFHVU

@hornhospital do you know where is the starter relay located?

So, the (S) is the small terminal that you said will be 12 volts if key is turn on ready for ignition power....checking tomorrow...(connects to the relay)

@wardjustinn I have to make sure of that...but I'll check starter relay first....

p.s
and I'm so sure that my battery is Ok(12.46v yesterday, now it 12.35v), including the clamp, the nut and volt almost break because I surely grip-it good.

thank you guys, I will be back soon after both of your solutions be tested :D

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about Clutch Sensor Position
@Blutortl from this post:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1597212-No-crank-Starter-relay-location
If you are experiencing similar problems it could be, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, starter, ignition switch or clutch position sensor among other things but the first 4 are the highest likely parts to fail.
Because the last 1 hour of my use of the car, the clutch stacked, I wonder why the transmission was so hard to changed from pri to sec then back... then I get it that the clutch was not push down BUT stack in the center....

Maybe I have to check the Clutch Sensor First....

what you say guys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi,

I have check the clutch sensor, but there was no sensor I found.

I have check under the dashboard starter relay(not sure if that was the starter relay, 90% it's not)

Now, I tested the +12 volts in the starter solenoid, and there was a positive 12 volts came out from the BIG terminal....BUT there was NO positive 12 volts in the small terminal(when I switch ready for ignition key)



and I'm not sure that I have not seen a starter relay because I think the wire from the starter solenoid goes to the computer box? could that be possible that there was no starter relay?
 

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Hi,

I have check the clutch sensor, but there was no sensor I found.

I have check under the dashboard starter relay(not sure if that was the starter relay, 90% it's not)

Now, I tested the +12 volts in the starter solenoid, and there was a positive 12 volts came out from the BIG terminal....BUT there was NO positive 12 volts in the small terminal(when I switch ready for ignition key)



and I'm not sure that I have not seen a starter relay because I think the wire from the starter solenoid goes to the computer box? could that be possible that there was no starter relay?
Your going to drive yourself crazy boss.. I've been trying to figure it out for 2 years bypass the key start..you still have to put key to on position key still has to be in on position then you flip switch to start car after car starts flip switch back to kill starter when you get to where you need to go take key out ignition easy as pie car turned off. it will get you baby turning over again and you don't have 12 volts to small wire cause ignition switch put out in start mode is dead now iv tried for 2 year's and can't figure out how to make the key start my car so I relied on trusty horn button or tago switch sucks but no sense in chasing a ghost the problem I believe is in the dme motronic ecu


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Iv replaced every relay and fuse in the car under the hood behind steering wheel.. in the floors in the kick panal and I say every one i went as far as taking dash out to make sure nothing was missed fun day for me at the pull a part getting all theses relays but unless that car has same issue it never solved nothing so that's y I say dme / ecu to big of a headache four me to go find my color label ecu and dme then gotta take car to have someone align them so car will not be stuck in limp mode or run or start i can think of alot better ways to spend 400 $$$$$

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
hi wardjustinn

Yes, I've seen the first image, like I have in my car... but your trying to say that I will connect with a wire from like this image?



What about the second image and third?

I think this is the second image as understand:
 

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How ever u wanna get ur power direct of battery is best cause u need plenty juce to start ur car ok first take a wire can get the gage at any part stoor $5 take that wire run from power battery to inside of car where ever you want to put ur horn button or tago switch again $2 for switch at wall mart now take another wire remove the wire thats

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On starter small wire tape that off i beleave factory is black and yello replace with new wire and run that to switch inside car the switch is only going to complete the circuit to get power to the starter

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On starter small wire tape that off i beleave factory is black and yello replace with new wire and run that to switch inside car the switch is only going to complete the circuit to get power to the starter

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Now take the wire u hooked up to battery plug that to one side of switch take wire u hooked up to starter and plug to other side of switch flip switch for power flip switch to kill power... on off like a light switch in the house


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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Ok, Ok

I'm trying to understand all your words,

I will get back soon....

So, I think I'm right that in my bmw e36 316i 1995 m43 engine there was NO STARTER RELAY, BUT the wire from the Starter Solenoid (small terminal(BLACK wire) from the first image I edited) is going to the ECU or Computer BOX?

This is the second image you have....


The third image you have shows that you have a manual switch.... FROM battery TO Stater Solenoid(small terminal(BLACK wire factory default))

The first Image, what is that for? I'm confused of this first image you send.


Sorry in the kind of writing I have...bold tx...cap tx... but a style that you could see directly...
Thank you for the ideas...

and I hope I understand it clearly....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Ok, Ok, as I understand, you want me to get a long wire and make a switch FROM battery TO small terminal of Starter Solenoid...a switch that will connect both?

Ok, I think right for that....

then you want me to disable(tape off/blocked) the default BLACK wire from ECU or Computer BOX? and connect the switch to this small terminal to the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I figured it out, your trying to make your own starter relay....... manually......

so, when you want to start-up car.... (1) you must turn the ignition key ready for start twist.... then (2)switch ON the switch from battery to small terminal....... then (3)start ignition twist.... then it will crank and start....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, third message with no reply.....

Another thoughts.... a side from @wardjustinn possible solution....

I got a feeling that ignition switch will NOT crank or produce positive 12 volts from the ECU.... if the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR is BAD...
http://bmw-e36.com/repair/210-the-crankshaft-position-sensor-ckp-sensor-m50.html

because I got exactly this before it happens....... 1 month before that never crank....
...Difficulty starting the engine (takes about 10 attempts).
...Unstable idling, the engine was regularly stalling when going into idle mode.

AND an hour before.......MAYBE i did not step the clutch very deep... then I changed GEAR....
and it was so hard changing gear from PRI to SEC...... I noticed I only kick it in the Middle... or it was stack...

then I parked and check fuel pump by removing the wire back and forth to hear if it's getting fuel pump when the wire is ON and or OFF..

AFTER second test of CRANKING WITH THE ACCELERATOR WITHOUT FUEL PUMP CONNECTED(only the sensor connects)...engine cranking...but can't start(because NO fuel pump connected).....
then...
third attempt to start.... does not CRANK anymore....
 

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Last time to clarify you need two wires each wire 10 ft long u can cut to lengths u need once ur inside the car......
First wire run from battery to the inside of your car and forget about that wire do not connect to the battery yet....

Number 2 wire run from starter to inside the car u wanna connect that wire to where the black wire with yellow stripe is on the starter i think it held on with 8 size bolt the little wire in this pic I got off the internet... is where ur new wire goes.. the black yellow wire tape up just so it doesn't decide to get power again and ark out its bypassed at this point that wire goes to nothing... it is a dangling wire at this point.... the new wire u put in the place of the black yellow wire is now inside the car with the first wire u ran from the battery cut the wire to the length you need so u don't have all this extra wire... on the switch there is two terminals like in the pic I sent earlier of the switch... take the battery wire and plug it to one side of the switch... take the starter wire and plug that to other side the switch connect the wire to the battery and your done..... careful cause if the switch is in the on position when u connect the battery wire the starter will start turning .... don't freak out comely remove wire off battery go and flip the switch then connect wire back to battery if car is stick make sure ur not in gear.... turn key to on position flip the switch once car starts flip switch to kill power to starter then to kill the car remove the key i hope you understand it now let me no what happins


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