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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

First at all I would like to thanks to everyone who takes the time to read my post, It has come to my knowledge that this is a common problem with the E60 but this is all new to me. I'm an auto technician with a little less than 10 years in experience (mostly on Mercedes, VW's and Audis) but honestly, this is the first time I got my hands on a BMW

I was helping a friend with his 2004 E60 with engine M54. The car's battery have been bad for the last 6 months. The problem got so bad that the owner was used to jump start the car every morning, battery wouldn't hold charge for a night. I looked at the car (knowing nothing about it) and noticed that the IAC and some other actuators would never stop making noises even with the car completely locked for hours. The "P" light was always on as well. I dug a little bit on this and other forums and I suggested a new IBS and battery. It was really difficult to find the battery (I live in a very economically and commercially unstable south american country). We got the new battery this weekend but the owner was in a hurry and installed itself, then he called me to "finish" the install. What he didn't tell me is that he tried to install the battery with no success. It turns out the car will start but I have absolutely no electric, no cluster, no idrive, no exterior lights, no seat adjustment, no A/C, none of the doors will open even from the inside (just the drivers door inserting the key). The car sometimes start and sometimes don't start (sometimes the I can hear the starter's teeth hitting the flywheel when the engine has already started, like when you turn the key for too long and the flywheel spins faster than the starter. Hooked up my scan tool, which is not very good reading BMW's and I get this:

First, when connecting battery I get the "red car in the lift" warning light, then it goes away and that's it.
Codes: CDA8 message (status, instrument cluster, 1B4)
29AF no match in database
CDA0 message (terminal status, 130)
CDA9 message (A/C Request, 1B5)
514A no message from center console
5142 no message from instrument cluster
5144 no message from car access system
9328 K-can communication error (this one appears and then goes away without my intervention, then it comes again and goes, and this happens in a loop, I just watch the code appear and disappear)

I want to add that I get these codes regardless of the key status, the key can be in my pocket or in the ON position and I can still read the codes.

The key fob has never worked since I've been dealing with this car, and the customer cannot remember when it stopped working (is the diamond shape ones that cannot be opened and they say it has a rechargeable battery inside)

Any help would be greatly appreciated, BMW left my country a few years back and I am unable to find BMW official help. I know a few independent shops that might have the proper scan tools but I want to see if I can fix this myself.
 

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Dinggg....what now!
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have the car been in a flood?are the carpets wet?computer modules under the carpet on the floor and in the trunk don't jive with water and creates havoc to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
have the car been in a flood?are the carpets wet?computer modules under the carpet on the floor and in the trunk don't jive with water and creates havoc to the car.
Hello moots, I have already checked. No water marks on boot or floor carpet, also the "junction box" on engine compartment co-driver side is bone dry. Behind glove box is bone dry as well.

Al fuses are working. Also forgot to mention that with the new battery the iac and other actuators stop making sounds a minute or so when I lock the car (with the key because the fob doesn't work) but the "P" light on the shifter still stays on indefinitely.
 

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1999 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.5
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It seems your costumer has some how shorted something and burned out one of the fuse boxes in the car. All this CAN error messages point to that. Though i would try disconnecting the battery and waiting for 1 or 2 hours in connecting just to make sure you tried everything before you start checking fuse boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like the car isn't entering sleep mode
You're right BronxE60. With the bad battery the car wouldn't go to sleep mode. With this new battery I have the opposite problem (among others), the car doesn't wake up from deep sleep...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It seems your costumer has some how shorted something and burned out one of the fuse boxes in the car. All this CAN error messages point to that. Though i would try disconnecting the battery and waiting for 1 or 2 hours in connecting just to make sure you tried everything before you start checking fuse boxes.
Hello DanielFD. I already did that twice, the first opportunity I disconnected the battery and went to lunch, three hours later I came back, reconnected the battery and nothing new happened. Later I disconnected the battery while checking fuses with the DVOM and an hour later reconnected again. I'm being very precise with the time because I had my timer with me all the time, measuring the "go to sleep" and such.

Regarding the fuse boxes, the one in the back seems ok. All fuses receive power, no hot spots, and even the 200A mega fuse in the back is pristine. The fuses in the glovebox are OK (not blown and some receive power) but I couldn't check much further because I couldn't open the passenger door and I was in a very uncomfortable position. The junction box in the engine bay where the ECU is located looks pristine.

A detail I forgot to add. When I reconnect and do some stuff in the car (open the door or take out the key of the ignition, the siren goes off and the only way to shut it down is to disconnect the battery, I forgot that because early in my investigation I pulled the alarm fuse and the siren went quiet. That made me think about immobilizer or something, but again, I can start the engine, the thing is that I don't have any electronics.

Here's a video I found on youtube with a vehicle that have the same symptoms, the guy in the video could start the car inserting the key and pressing the start button for 30 secs. I cannot do that because this car has the traditional diamond key.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGtoTcKOPZA

Thanks again for all the input, I should start charging my friend per hour...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello people,

Just a quick update, I've been digging around and found that the CAS fries when you put a new battery. I know that there is one CAS under the steering wheel on one side (where a normal car have the fusebox) but I've read also that these vehicles have another CAS. Can you people help me with this?

Also, there is a way to check the CAS module? or any other module for that matter?

Thanks again
 
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