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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thank you for everyone's assistance.

What is the current (June 2016) BMW FS discount per Security Deposit? It was my understanding that it should be seven points (.00007) per SD.

Yesterday, I took delivery on a 2016 F30 328i Sport Line and was quoted a payment which came out to a MF of .00138 per my calculations.

I am a Tier 1 customer. I put down 7 Security Deposits for MSD reduction. Once I got home (my fault) and I calculated things out my final payment came out to be about $11 higher than it should have. I calculated out that the effective money factor is on my payment and it is .00106.

If I had been given the .00007 discount per SD, then based on this payment, the effective 'base' MF (without SDs) is .00155. I find this disturbing. If I was quoted an effective MF of 138 without SDs, then my effective MF with seven SDs should have been .00089 with an $11 additional reduction in total monthly payment.

This puts my effective return on my MSDs over the 36 months down to around 20% vs 30%. I believe they took my SDs for the back office (finance profit) and didn't honor the base 138 money factor to discount off of.

Thoughts please?

Thank you
 

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You cross posted this question in the 3/4 series forum as well, which is generally frowned on here at bimmerfest (posting the same thing in multiple parts of the forum).... with that said, this is probably the right place for it, so I will past my response from the thread there, here:

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The discount is .00007 per MSD up to a total of .00049 for the maximum 7 MSDs. Keep in mind that the money factor is negotiable between a certain range (which it sounds like you know). For june it was .00138 to .00178 for tier 1 credit.

That means with Maximum MSDs for tier 1 credit, the money factors could be anywhere between .00089 and .00129. The number you mention .00106 is within this range, but sounds like its not what you negotiated with them.

You sure that there is not some extra fees in there that you did not account for, like a higher doc fee, or a some sort of paint sealant, etc?

You are within your rights to go back to the finance person with your numbers and show them to them, and ask them to show you how it reaches the money factor you negotiated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I believe I got this figured out. Spoke with the finance manager.

While I know that in my discussions with him at the start of the deal with no MSDs I mentioned (but we didn't have an agreement of) a MF of .00138, the deal had >$400 of cap cost reduction (which I usually do not put down ANY of on a deal).

Then, when I asked him to take out the cap cost reduction and add the 7 MSDs, he did so. What I *thought* was us starting with a MF of .00138 was really a starting MF of .00155.

I think what they are doing when they setup the deal before sending it to finance is including cap cost reduction in an amount sufficient to get them to a MF of .00155. Even though I've done several leases before, it was late at night and I was not fast on my feet.

So that is how we ended up at .00106 with 7 MSDs.

The question I really have right now is whether .00138 as the bottom range for Tier 1 in June 2016 was the 'buy' rate or whether it is already 'bumped' (padded) by the dealer?

The dealer I used to work with in Atlanta before moving back to Florida never gave less than a 20 point bump from the bottom of the range. If I use that on this deal, it would have been .00158 so considering my starting pre-MSD MF was at .00155, I actually did a couple points better than usual.

Thanks for everyone's input and listening (reading).
 

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Thank you for everyone's assistance.

What is the current (June 2016) BMW FS discount per Security Deposit? It was my understanding that it should be seven points (.00007) per SD.

Yesterday, I took delivery on a 2016 F30 328i Sport Line and was quoted a payment which came out to a MF of .00138 per my calculations.
You posted this on Saturday, July 2; so yesterday was Friday, July 1. Is that when you took delivery, July 1st? If so, it was the July lease program that applied, not the June lease program.

Are you saying that you previously locked in the June program? If so, obviously you chose the July program if you took delivery on July 1 because it is so much better than the June program

Specifically, the buy rate improved from .00138 to .00137 and the residual went up by 3% across the board. It was 63% for 36/10k in June but it's 66% for 36/10k in July. It went up by 3% on 15k and 12k, too.

Naturally your dealership would automatically drop the June program -- if there was one locked-in -- and cash this contract under the terms in effect on Friday, July 1. So please clear that up for us. Why are you asking for June rates if you took delivery in July?

I am a Tier 1 customer. I put down 7 Security Deposits for MSD reduction. Once I got home (my fault) and I calculated things out my final payment came out to be about $11 higher than it should have. I calculated out that the effective money factor is on my payment and it is .00106.
I'm afraid I don't know that you mean when you say you calculated "the effective money factor." There is only one way to calculate the money factor and you should have done that before signing the lease contract. It only takes 30 seconds and a little hand-held calculator. First write down the net cap cost and the residual amount. Now add those two numbers together. Now check to see how much they charged you for the monthly rental charge. If it was shown as a total amount for the term of the lease, then simply divide that total amount by 36 (if this was a 36-months lease) and that is the monthly amount. Now, divide that monthly rental charge by the sum of the net cap cost and the residual and that is the exact money factor used on your lease. It only takes 30 seconds. :)

For example, if the sum of your net cap cost and your residual is $60,000 and the monthly rental charge is $78.00, then the money factor is .00130.

So... what is your net cap cost as shown on your lease. What is your residual amount shown on your lease. What is the monthly rental charge shown on your lease? Now what is your money factor?

The buy rate money factor in effect on July 1 was .00137 minus .00049 = .00088. The residual in effect on July 1 was 66% for 36/10k, 65% for 36/12k and 63% for 36/15k. It was 3% lower than that in June.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You posted this on Saturday, July 2; so yesterday was Friday, July 1. Is that when you took delivery, July 1st? If so, it was the July lease program that applied, not the June lease program.

Are you saying that you previously locked in the June program? If so, obviously you chose the July program if you took delivery on July 1 because it is so much better than the June program
I will try my best to sum this up - it's a really long story. I originally purchased a 328d BMW NA factory auctioned vehicle through the dealership on Thursday night (6/30). Upon arriving home, I discovered that there was a 'hail damage' disclosure from BMW NA that was supposed to be presented to me by the dealer and signed by me before taking delivery. Having mold allergies, I could not risk keeping the car even though the deal was amazing. $52k fully loaded 2016 328d with 4k miles with a selling price of $41k. The payment was awesome. The car was supposedly repaired while under BMW NA's possession, but I can't risk it for my health. So I returned it Friday morning and insisted they take it back after showing them the disclosure they themselves had signed by their inventory manager, but never notified sales/finance to present to me. I instead took delivery of a new 328i. I think they back-dated it so they could keep it as part of their June sales numbers. I received a decent deal signed off by the GM of the store on the new 328i. $47,995 sticker for $44,200.

Specifically, the buy rate improved from .00138 to .00137 and the residual went up by 3% across the board. It was 63% for 36/10k in June but it's 66% for 36/10k in July. It went up by 3% on 15k and 12k, too.

Naturally your dealership would automatically drop the June program -- if there was one locked-in -- and cash this contract under the terms in effect on Friday, July 1. So please clear that up for us. Why are you asking for June rates if you took delivery in July?
Gosh, that really sucks... Well, I can't change it now. It's signed and I drove off.

I'm afraid I don't know that you mean when you say you calculated "the effective money factor." There is only one way to calculate the money factor and you should have done that before signing the lease contract. It only takes 30 seconds and a little hand-held calculator. First write down the net cap cost and the residual amount. Now add those two numbers together. Now check to see how much they charged you for the monthly rental charge. If it was shown as a total amount for the term of the lease, then simply divide that total amount by 36 (if this was a 36-months lease) and that is the monthly amount. Now, divide that monthly rental charge by the sum of the net cap cost and the residual and that is the exact money factor used on your lease. It only takes 30 seconds. :)

For example, if the sum of your net cap cost and your residual is $60,000 and the monthly rental charge is $78.00, then the money factor is .00130.
Yes, I know how to calculate it. I actually worked for ADP Dealer Services for nine years as a software engineer in the systems that were tied to the DMS in order to calculate the deals. I understand how to calculate and reverse calculate a deal. Maybe you could cut me some slack on this one - I had a pretty rough purchasing experience and I only got into finance after 10pm on Thursday night and hardly slept more than two hours before returning the hail damaged car on Friday hoping I wasn't stuck with something that was going to impact my health.

So... what is your net cap cost as shown on your lease. What is your residual amount shown on your lease. What is the monthly rental charge shown on your lease? Now what is your money factor?
Net/Adjusted Cap Cost is $47,137.95 because I had negative equity in a 2016 Lexus RX 350. It is unlike me to dump a brand new vehicle, but it was giving my wife migraines from the new car out-gasing whenever she would drive in it with me and frankly, I didn't care for the driving experience as well after having owned or leased BMWs exclusively for the past 18 years.

The buy rate money factor in effect on July 1 was .00137 minus .00049 = .00088. The residual in effect on July 1 was 66% for 36/10k, 65% for 36/12k and 63% for 36/15k. It was 3% lower than that in June.

:)
Now I really, really feel bad.... :cry:

P.S. Part of the reason I did the deal with this BMW store was because everyone else in town was offering me $3k LESS for my trade which was substantial and even if you were to base this deal on July 2016 residuals and base MF's, this deal is still better than any of the others stores were willing to do, so while it could have been better, I am going to have to choose to just sleep well at night considering all of the aforementioned. Would you agree?
 

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I will try my best to sum this up - it's a really long story. I originally purchased a 328d BMW NA factory auctioned vehicle through the dealership on Thursday night (6/30). Upon arriving home, I discovered that there was a 'hail damage' disclosure from BMW NA that was supposed to be presented to me by the dealer and signed by me before taking delivery. Having mold allergies, I could not risk keeping the car even though the deal was amazing. $52k fully loaded 2016 328d with 4k miles with a selling price of $41k. The payment was awesome. The car was supposedly repaired while under BMW NA's possession, but I can't risk it for my health. So I returned it Friday morning and insisted they take it back after showing them the disclosure they themselves had signed by their inventory manager, but never notified sales/finance to present to me. I instead took delivery of a new 328i. I think they back-dated it so they could keep it as part of their June sales numbers. I received a decent deal signed off by the GM of the store on the new 328i. $47,995 sticker for $44,200.
Okay, they're in double trouble now. They should have disclosed the fact that this car had hail damage BEFORE you took delivery, not after.

Friday was July 1. YOU DO NOT agree to them dating this lease June 30 no matter what their self-serving reasons were. Tell them you want this lease contract dated correctly July 1, the date you actually took delivery and you want them to use the July program. End of story. Tell them you are willing to forget about the fact that they did NOT disclose the hail damage prior to delivery as required by BMW.

Okay now that we have that out of the way, let's see what's next.

Gosh, that really sucks... Well, I can't change it now. It's signed and I drove off.
Sucks for them because they did not disclose the hail damage on the first car. The second car that you took delivery of on July 1 is a new deal. They can't back-date the lease because that car was still in their inventory on July 1.

Yes, I know how to calculate it. I actually worked for ADP Dealer Services for nine years as a software engineer in the systems that were tied to the DMS in order to calculate the deals. I understand how to calculate and reverse calculate a deal. Maybe you could cut me some slack on this one -
I am cutting you some slack. I'm just trying to explain to you that you didn't have to back out the lease to calculate the money factor. It's something that can be done much quicker than that and something everybody should do before they sign the lease just in case the F&I dept makes a mistake and accidently charges you a higher money factor than you were promised.

Now I really, really feel bad.... :cry:

P.S. Part of the reason I did the deal with this BMW store was because everyone else in town was offering me $3k LESS for my trade which was substantial and even if you were to base this deal on July 2016 residuals and base MF's, this deal is still better than any of the others stores were willing to do, so while it could have been better, I am going to have to choose to just sleep well at night considering all of the aforementioned. Would you agree?
No need for you to feel bad at all. You're going to be nice and not report them for delivering you a hail-damaged car under false pretenses but they're going to redate your lease to July 1, the only legal date since that is the date to took delivery. Are they willing to lie and report it to the state as being delivered on June 30? That's a no-no.

Anyway, it's quite simple. They redo the lease, they date it July 1, they give you the July rates and residuals and that's the end of their problems. You won't have to make a big deal over it with BMW and, heaven forbid, you should even think of going to the state attorney general's office for assistance from their consumer affairs division. But you're a nice guy, so as long as they do things your way, everybody will be happy. Back-dating a report of sale is illegal in every state. The manager who signed your lease contract on Friday, July 1, certified that it was signed by you and witnessed by him/her on June 30. That was also illegal.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Okay, they're in double trouble now. They should have disclosed the fact that this car had hail damage BEFORE you took delivery, not after.

Friday was July 1. YOU DO NOT agree to them dating this lease June 30 no matter what their self-serving reasons were. Tell them you want this lease contract dated correctly July 1, the date you actually took delivery and you want them to use the July program. End of story. Tell them you are willing to forget about the fact that they did NOT disclose the hail damage prior to delivery as required by BMW.

...

Anyway, it's quite simple. They redo the lease, they date it July 1, they give you the July rates and residuals and that's the end of their problems. You won't have to make a big deal over it with BMW and, heaven forbid, you should even think of going to the state attorney general's office for assistance from their consumer affairs division. But you're a nice guy, so as long as they do things your way, everybody will be happy. Back-dating a report of sale is illegal in every state. The manager who signed your lease contract on Friday, July 1, certified that it was signed by you and witnessed by him/her on June 30. That was also illegal.

:)
Forgive me for asking, but I am not a malicious or aggressive person, yet I need things to be right. I've always been black and white on everything, no room for grey. Whom should I contact at the dealership? I assume you are going to say the Finance Manager who did my deal, but is that the right approach or should I be contacting their superior? Would that be the GM?

Also, he stated he would be dating the lease and paperwork June 30 so I was aware of the date shift, but I had no knowledge that this was somehow inappropriate and much less so that this was negatively going to be impacting my rights to a better deal (due to the new residuals and MF for July).

Thank you
 

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Forgive me for asking, but I am not a malicious or aggressive person, yet I need things to be right. I've always been black and white on everything, no room for grey. Whom should I contact at the dealership? I assume you are going to say the Finance Manager who did my deal, but is that the right approach or should I be contacting their superior? Would that be the GM?

Also, he stated he would be dating the lease and paperwork June 30 so I was aware of the date shift, but I had no knowledge that this was somehow inappropriate and much less so that this was negatively going to be impacting my rights to a better deal (due to the new residuals and MF for July).

Thank you,

-Darius
Darius,

I would recommend you contact the dealership's General Sales Manager and if they don't have a General Sales Manager, their General Manager. Whoever is in charge of the entire sales operation of the dealership is the person you want to speak to because we already know the position of the F&I department.

(1) You were not informed by the salesperson that you were being sold a hail-damaged car!

(2) You were not informed by the Finance Manager who handled the contracting of your deal that you were being sold a hail-damaged car.

(3) Had you known it was a hail-damaged car from the start, you wouldn't have even considered it. Therefore, this was a big waste of your time and a deceptive sales practice on the part of their company.

(4) You were notified the day after you took delivery of that car that it was a hail-damaged car, at which time you informed them that this was a major problem for you.

(5) You returned that car on Friday, July 1, and settled on a different car.

(6) You were not informed on Friday, July 1 that BMW Financial Services had made major improvements to the July program, namely a slight reduction in the money factor and a 3% increase across the board in residual values. Had you known that you would never have agreed to allowing the dealership to violate the law by back-dating your paperwork.

(7) You are very disappointed in the way their dealership has handled this transaction. You have now been informed that it is illegal to back-date a legal document like a lease contract and illegal to back-date a report of sale. For all you know the car you took delivery of on July 1 may have been used to commit a serious crime on the evening of June 30, yet your report of sale to the state certifies that you owned that car on June 30.

You have now been informed that your personal insurance coverage on that car must begin on June 30 in order to comply with the requirements of BMW Financial Services. Yet the car was not in your possession on June 30. You have also noticed that their manager signed that lease certifying, under penalty of perjury, that he/she witnessed your signature on June 30, which is untrue.

(8) All of this can be fixed quite easily. You're willing to forget about how you were misled by so many different people at their dealership but you expect them to redate the lease contract and the report of sale (they have to void the previous one as in error) to the correct legal date of July 1 and give you the correct buy rate (.00137 money factor minus credit for your MSDs) and correct residual value in effect on that date.

That is the only way you would agree to drop this as a simple oversight by a few people at their dealership who should have treated you better. If this is something the GSM (or GM) doesn't think is acceptable, then your only recourse would be to call your brother-in-law who is an attorney and ask for his professional assistance even though you don't like him all that much. Your wife keeps demanding that you let him handle this for you.

The person you are having this conversation with will not let you walk. Just don't get confrontational. Keep the conversation as lowkey as possible and wait for his/her response. Don't be the first one to get up. Whatever his/her response is, counter it by saying you're uncomfortable lying on a legal document (the lease contract) certifying that you took delivery on June 30 when you actually took delivery on July 1.

:)

P.S. -- Check your report of sale to see if it's dated June 30 or July 1. It may have been dated July 1. In which case, don't make any comments about the report of sale, just the lease contract.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you so much for your comprehensive response. Your help is very appreciated.

The report of sale was 6/30 on all paperwork except my tag registration transfer with the state is dated 7/1 as it was filed electronically. Also, an additional check to make up the difference from what I gave them on the previous deal on 6/30 and the slightly higher total cost of MSDs, was also dated 7/1 so I have two documents showing a date of 7/1.

Plus, I have all of the documentation from the 6/30 sale still in my possession... So I can prove that I didn't have possession of the replacement vehicle until 7/1.

I sent an email to the GSM using your points as a guide. Let's see what happens.

Thanks and will keep you posted of my progress.
 

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Don't forget that the BMW Financial Services lease contract requires that you have full insurance coverage on that car effective with the date of the lease contract, which is also the date you claim to have taken possession of the car. It would amount to insurance fraud for you to make a false statement to your insurance company claiming you took possession of the car on June 30.

You're just exaggerating everything on purpose to put them in the predicament of having to defend what they did as not a big deal when they know you are technically correct. The reason a manager has to sign the lease contract is to make it a binding legal document. They are certifying that they witnessed your signature on that date, June 30. That is a false statement.

The person who signed that lease contract on behalf of the dealership is not willing to testify under oath that you took delivery on June 30.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Upon discovering that my wife was friends with the wife of a finance manager who recently left the store I purchased this vehicle from; and she and her husband are still close with the sales manager that handled my transaction, I sent an email to the sales manager with the same points you made (in my own words). Made sure to let him know that we have a mutual connection.

Per the read receipt, he read it this morning, but I never heard back.

Would you suggest I just show up in person tomorrow 'to resolve' this matter? And if I do, should I just ask for the GSM straight off the bat?

Thank you
 

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I think I covered everything in my Post #9. I don't have anything new to add to that advice. We haven't reached Plan B yet because you have to go through that advice first before we talk about Plan B. :)

If the general sales manager knows what's best for his dealership, he won't want this to go any further, especially since they sold you a hail-damaged car without telling you it was a hail-damaged car, then delivered it without asking you to sign a waiver acknowledging that they had disclosed the hail damage prior to selling you the car. In other words, nobody told you it had hail damage and that's why they got it very cheap through the auction. That's a no-no.

Then they leased you a different car on July 1 but instead of offering you BMW's better leasing terms for July, they back-dated it to June 30 for their own self-serving purposes. That's another no-no if the customer decides to make a big deal over it.

Plan B, of course, involves you calling BMW of North America to inform them that you feel the dealer defrauded you in the way he handled both transactions and you signed the lease under false pretenses and allowed the dealer to back-date it because you didn't know any better at the time.

Actually I don't expect it to get that far. I expect something to be done at the dealership level to resolve this matter to your satisfaction. We're back to my Post #9.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think I covered everything in my Post #9. I don't have anything new to add to that advice. We haven't reached Plan B yet because you have to go through that advice first before we talk about Plan B. :)
I will proceed with Plan A.

Am I legally entitled to keep all of the paperwork from this current, mis-dated deal if they agree to rewriting it?

I kept the paperwork from the hail damaged vehicle - even though they tried taking it from me during financing under the guise of 'not wanting [me] to confuse the paperwork.' - but I kept it anyway.

In the least I will keep a copy...

Thank you,
-Darius
 

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I will proceed with Plan A.

Am I legally entitled to keep all of the paperwork from this current, mis-dated deal if they agree to rewriting it?

I kept the paperwork from the hail damaged vehicle - even though they tried taking it from me during financing under the guise of 'not wanting [me] to confuse the paperwork.' - but I kept it anyway.

In the least I will keep a copy...

Thank you,
-Darius
Absolutely you should keep every copy of every document you were given! That's your property, not theirs! Never give back your copy of anything you signed, ever!

We both know why they would like to get it back, don't we.

:)
 

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Darius, it's okay to be mild-mannered, but make sure you are also assertive and determined. Don't let them push you around. In fact, being non-confrontational by nature, as you seem to be, can work to your advantage because it can drive them nuts. It would be so much easier for them to behave badly if you behaved badly first. The customer who is polite but insistent puts them in a predicament, especially if they know you are correct.
 

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Darius,

I would recommend you contact the dealership's General Sales Manager and if they don't have a General Sales Manager, their General Manager. Whoever is in charge of the entire sales operation of the dealership is the person you want to speak to because we already know the position of the F&I department.

(1) You were not informed by the salesperson that you were being sold a hail-damaged car!

(2) You were not informed by the Finance Manager who handled the contracting of your deal that you were being sold a hail-damaged car.

(3) Had you known it was a hail-damaged car from the start, you wouldn't have even considered it. Therefore, this was a big waste of your time and a deceptive sales practice on the part of their company.

(4) You were notified the day after you took delivery of that car that it was a hail-damaged car, at which time you informed them that this was a major problem for you.

(5) You returned that car on Friday, July 1, and settled on a different car.

(6) You were not informed on Friday, July 1 that BMW Financial Services had made major improvements to the July program, namely a slight reduction in the money factor and a 3% increase across the board in residual values. Had you known that you would never have agreed to allowing the dealership to violate the law by back-dating your paperwork.

(7) You are very disappointed in the way their dealership has handled this transaction. You have now been informed that it is illegal to back-date a legal document like a lease contract and illegal to back-date a report of sale. For all you know the car you took delivery of on July 1 may have been used to commit a serious crime on the evening of June 30, yet your report of sale to the state certifies that you owned that car on June 30.

You have now been informed that your personal insurance coverage on that car must begin on June 30 in order to comply with the requirements of BMW Financial Services. Yet the car was not in your possession on June 30. You have also noticed that their manager signed that lease certifying, under penalty of perjury, that he/she witnessed your signature on June 30, which is untrue.

(8) All of this can be fixed quite easily. You're willing to forget about how you were misled by so many different people at their dealership but you expect them to redate the lease contract and the report of sale (they have to void the previous one as in error) to the correct legal date of July 1 and give you the correct buy rate (.00137 money factor minus credit for your MSDs) and correct residual value in effect on that date.

That is the only way you would agree to drop this as a simple oversight by a few people at their dealership who should have treated you better. If this is something the GSM (or GM) doesn't think is acceptable, then your only recourse would be to call your brother-in-law who is an attorney and ask for his professional assistance even though you don't like him all that much. Your wife keeps demanding that you let him handle this for you.

The person you are having this conversation with will not let you walk. Just don't get confrontational. Keep the conversation as lowkey as possible and wait for his/her response. Don't be the first one to get up. Whatever his/her response is, counter it by saying you're uncomfortable lying on a legal document (the lease contract) certifying that you took delivery on June 30 when you actually took delivery on July 1.

:)

P.S. -- Check your report of sale to see if it's dated June 30 or July 1. It may have been dated July 1. In which case, don't make any comments about the report of sale, just the lease contract.
This, and your post #6, are some of the best things I've read on Bimmerfest. Hydrogen, I hope it all goes your way smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
This, and your post #6, are some of the best things I've read on Bimmerfest. Hydrogen, I hope it all goes your way smoothly.
Ninong - thank you so much for all of your advice and assistance.

Carbon Fiver - thanks for the warm wishes.

So here is where we stand. I went in there around 3pm asking for the GSM by name. I even knew what he looked like so I kept my eye out for him. They sent another guy I never met out to greet me after having me wait 10+ minutes. I said, I know you're not the GSM and I asked for him and that is whom I would like to speak with. I was told he was preoccupied. I told them I saw him (which I did) upon entering the store and that I would wait. After another 30 minutes, a sales manager approached me and said he was unavailable and insisted that he was instructed to assist me. Here goes...

So basically a game of repetitious verbiage on my part, constantly beating on the drum that Ninong told me to, here's what I was finally offered... I was told this was the only offer they would give me or that I could walk out the door.

Before you tell me that I should have gone straight to picking up the phone to contact BMW NA and FS, my primary issue was that my insurance company wasn't going to bind the insurance for a date which I was in possession of a different vehicle.

They then put me with the Executive Director of Finance and she told me that they would honor the July program with the 65% residual, but that the June rebate was gone and that would increase the selling price of the car by $1,000. They also refused to budge on the MF insisting that I had agreed to that prior MF. So I was presented with the option to get all of the paperwork rewritten for the correct date (7/1), but zero concessions on the MF. I had no knowledge at the time whether the $1,000 rebate they claimed they applied to my 'June sale' was still in effect and they said take it or leave it.

I looked at my previous deal and the new deal with full dealer disclosure worksheets and saw the numbers.

At this point I must have wasted an additional 3 hours (4 including driving) of my time on this deal.

The net effect was a $12 decrease in my monthly payment and documents all dated correctly with 7/1.

I've already wasted so many billable hours (I bill by the house as a software engineer) throughout this experience and can't drag this out for much longer so I took the new deal.

In the end, I took it.

While I got all my deal related paperwork back, they conveniently didn't give me back the extra copy of the hail damaged vehicle disclosure I had brought with me (no surprise! but I have extras at home - sucks for them!).

At this point, I am considering still notifying BMW NA and BMW FS about this transaction. Wouldn't you?

Kindest Regards
 

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Ninong - thank you so much for all of your advice and assistance.

Carbon Fiver - thanks for the warm wishes.

So here is where we stand. I went in there around 3pm asking for the GSM by name. I even knew what he looked like so I kept my eye out for him. They sent another guy I never met out to greet me after having me wait 10+ minutes. I said, I know you're not the GSM and I asked for him and that is whom I would like to speak with. I was told he was preoccupied. I told them I saw him (which I did) upon entering the store and that I would wait. After another 30 minutes, a sales manager approached me and said he was unavailable and insisted that he was instructed to assist me. Here goes...

So basically a game of repetitious verbiage on my part, constantly beating on the drum that Ninong told me to, here's what I was finally offered... I was told this was the only offer they would give me or that I could walk out the door.

Before you tell me that I should have and gone straight to picking up the phone to contact BMW NA and FS, I had the issue that my insurance company wasn't going to bind the insurance for a date which I was in possession of a different vehicle.

They then put me with the Executive Director of Finance and she told me that they would honor the July program with the 65% residual, but that the June rebate was gone and that would increase the selling price of the car by $1,000. They also refused to budge on the MF insisting that I had agreed to that prior MF. So I was presented with the option to get all of the paperwork rewritten for the correct date (7/1), but zero concessions on the MF. I had no knowledge at the time whether the $1,000 rebate they claimed they applied to my 'June sale' was still in effect and they said take it or leave it.

I looked at my previous deal and the new deal with full dealer disclosure worksheets and saw the numbers.

At this point I must have wasted 3 hours of my time.

The net effect was a $12 decrease in my monthly payment and documents all dated correctly with 7/1.

I've already wasted so many billable hours (I bill by the house as a software engineer) throughout this experience and can't drag this out for much longer so I took the new deal.

In the end, I took it.

While I got all my deal related paperwork back, they conveniently didn't give me back the extra copy of the hail damaged vehicle disclosure I had brought with me (no surprise! but I have extras at home - sucks for them!).

At this point, I am considering still notifying BMW NA and BMW FS about this transaction. Wouldn't you?

Kindest Regards
I totally understand kind of throwing your hands up and not wanting to deal with it more, so I get you signing the new deal... sounds like they sort of wore you down. I think I would still notify BMW NA on the issue, and I would certainly "fill out the survey appropriately" with low scores. As for the scoring, I dont think I would make everything 1's... that kind of survey would probably not be taken seriously.

I would rate them as 1s and 2s out of 5, or 2s and 3s out of 10, and put an explanation of the issues I faced, and how I was not happy with the resolution but felt compelled to take it due to lost work time etc.

I would also check the box under " if you want someone to contact you about this situation" ... because the survey will likely go to the dealership and drive down their scores.

I would then probably move on with my life until and unless someone contacted me, but I would go out of my way to avoid that dealership for everything in the future, unless they somehow made this 100% right later.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I totally understand kind of throwing your hands up and not wanting to deal with it more, so I get you signing the new deal... sounds like they sort of wore you down. I think I would still notify BMW NA on the issue, and I would certainly "fill out the survey appropriately" with low scores. As for the scoring, I dont think I would make everything 1's... that kind of survey would probably not be taken seriously.

I would rate them as 1s and 2s out of 5, or 2s and 3s out of 10, and put an explanation of the issues I faced, and how I was not happy with the resolution but felt compelled to take it due to lost work time etc.
So I have a dilemma here... because my original salesman on the hail damaged car isn't on THIS sale (the replacement car) and the new guy was great and downright patient as could be... and I know that if I put anything other than all 10s, he is going to be hurt. That isn't right.

I would also check the box under " if you want someone to contact you about this situation" ... because the survey will likely go to the dealership and drive down their scores.
Wonder if the option "want someone to contact you about this situation" is still there if you give all 10s? Couldn't I just contact BMW directly without this survey and avoid negatively impacting a party that wasn't part of the cluster? Humanely speaking here...

I would then probably move on with my life until and unless someone contacted me, but I would go out of my way to avoid that dealership for everything in the future, unless they somehow made this 100% right later.
Agreed - except I have to go back to this store to get the rear wheels balanced as there is a vibration I felt on the highway after taking delivery. My normal service adviser (at another store) said he can't help me with "delivery issues" because they have to be billed back to the selling store. That or I pay out of pocket for the re-balancing, but in case it is something more expensive than something that simple, I don't want to be out money.
 
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