[ddb307]

I am about to work on my wifes bmw 325i for the first time. I will replacing brake pads, and trying to address the issue we're having with front end vibration.
Should I replace the brake pad sensors as well as the pads? And what brand do you guys prefer?
Theres alot of play in the front wheels when the vehicle is lifted off the ground which makes me suspect bushings and stabilizer or sway bar links. I need help with part brands recommendations, as I stated this will be the first time I've replaced any parts on the car and I know alot of you will have had more experience and knowledge about particular brands.
Has anyone heard of Beck/Arnley? Has anyone used the E46 Control arms and Tie rod kit from FCP Groton? I used them alot for my volvos for years and was satisfied but these parts are from different manufactures and I wanted some more input before I started buying parts. Thanks alot

 

[KeithS]

Stay away from the FP Groton cheap parts unless you want to change them again in a year. They also sell the better parts as well. Sway bar bushings or end links will not cause play in the wheels. That's most likely the Control arm bushings, and if you have over 80K miles probably need new control arms too as the ball joints are likely worn. Tie rods last a real long time, they may not be bad.

For control arms stay with the OEM Lemforder or use Meyle (they may last longer than OEM).

For the brakes, if the wear sensor has not tripped, you can reuse it (just be careful not to break it when removing from eixsting pads). For pads depends on what you are looking for. Want OEM feel and dust, then get OEM pads. If you are willing to trade a little initial bite for less dust, then I like Akebono Euro Ceramic pads (is what I use). Unless you want slotted or drilled rotors for the bling effect, recommend Balo coated roators (made in Gemany).

 

[oembimmerparts]

I am about to work on my wifes bmw 325i for the first time. I will replacing brake pads, and trying to address the issue we're having with front end vibration.
Should I replace the brake pad sensors as well as the pads? And what brand do you guys prefer?
Theres alot of play in the front wheels when the vehicle is lifted off the ground which makes me suspect bushings and stabilizer or sway bar links. I need help with part brands recommendations, as I stated this will be the first time I've replaced any parts on the car and I know alot of you will have had more experience and knowledge about particular brands.
Has anyone heard of Beck/Arnley? Has anyone used the E46 Control arms and Tie rod kit from FCP Groton? I used them alot for my volvos for years and was satisfied but these parts are from different manufactures and I wanted some more input before I started buying parts. Thanks alot

You may take a look at our site as we have the meyle kits as well as brake parts, Meyle hd or oem is about as good as you can get for your car.
Rule of thumb: If the parts are so cheap compared to everyone else then there is a reason why.
As Keith said
Meyle or Lemforder on the control arms and suspension and balo /sebro german coated rotors if you are on a budget the meyle coated rotors are pretty damn good for the money

 

[djstrachan]

Just replaced my pads and rotors all around. It's usually recommended to replace the rotors at teh same time as the pads. Old rotors with new pads may never achieve the same braking efficiency as new and new.

I used Zimmerman (German)coated rotors with Textar front pads and Pagid rears.

Two bedding procedures and the car stops like new.

As for the vibration, if the wheel moves by hand when you push/pull at the 3 and 9 0'clock position, it is likely tie-rod ends. If you have a buddy move the wheel in this manner, you should be abe to see and/or feel where the slack is.

Depending on mileage, your CABs may be shot. You can test them by having someone drive the car slowly while you walk along side. Have them hit the brakes hard and watch the front wheel. If it moves backward under braking, your CABs are shot.

You can replace just the CABs (I recommend Meyle HD) or if you check the ball joints and they are gone, replace with the entire control arm with the Meyle HD which includes new CABs and better ball joints than OEM. You can check the ball joints by raising the car until the tire is a couple inches off the ground. Using a pry bar under the tire, try to lift up on the tire while you or a buddy watch and feel for movement on the ball joints. IF there is no movement, ball joints are okay.

 

[ddb307]

2005 with 99300 miles

Thanks for the advice.
djstrachan I can actually feel the wheels go back when I brake at times and my mileage is right before 100000 so I'm sure it won't hurt me to replace the control arms. As for the brakes, I used zimmerman before but I was curious to know if rotor replacement is recommended, I haven't measured them but it doesn't seem there is any unusual wear. Definite thanks on the parts advice

 

[bluebee]

Should I replace the brake pad sensors as well as the pads? And what brand do you guys prefer?

See:
- Most often recommended brake pad thread (intent is to be canonical) (1)

As stated above, only replace the sensor if they have tripped.
And, as stated above, if you remove the good sensor wrong, it immediately turns into a bad sensor (ask me how I know).

It's usually recommended to replace the rotors at teh same time as the pads.

It depends on who is doing the recommendation.

The 'real' answer is to simply measure the rotors and if they're within spec, re-use 'em; if not, replace them. It's really that simple. Even BMW says so.

See, for example, specs and discussions about those specs here:
- One user's example of a complete brake job with all torque figures, specs, measurements, fluids, decisions, tools, tricks, mistakes, suppliers, costs, etc., that it entails (1)

I was curious to know if rotor replacement is recommended, I haven't measured them but it doesn't seem there is any unusual wear.

As said above, if the rotors are within the various specs, then there is absolutely no reason to replace them.

I think most DIY people replace rotors as a matter of habit because they don't measure them ... so they have no way of knowing if they're within spec. I think mechanics replace them because the cost to them of an unhappy customer is vastly higher if they don't replace them (at your cost anyway) than if they do - so they habitually replace them.

But, even BMW says that you don't have to replace rotors within spec (see the thread I referenced which answers almost any question you can ask about doing your brakes).

Me? I prefer to put my money into the tools and my time into looking up the specs (as stated in the thread I referenced) than into replacing rotors that are still within spec.

 

[djstrachan]

Thanks for the advice.
djstrachan I can actually feel the wheels go back when I brake at times and my mileage is right before 100000 so I'm sure it won't hurt me to replace the control arms. As for the brakes, I used zimmerman before but I was curious to know if rotor replacement is recommended, I haven't measured them but it doesn't seem there is any unusual wear. Definite thanks on the parts advice

Definitely won't hurt and likely will help...alot! Just remember to get an alignment right afterwards. ALso check those tie-rods 'cause if they need to be replaced, best to do it with the control arm replacement. It will save you another alignment later.:thumbup: