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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I knew this was coming. I'm in need of replacing all of the rotors and pads. Has anyone done this recently and if so, what and where did you get yours. So many choices out there, my head hurts, lol
 

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For pads I have EBC yellow stuff and for rotors I have balo coated rotors. It has great cold grip, but does create brake dust and sometimes squeals when dust is built up. You can opt of akebono, hawk ceramics, or pagid(OE) if you don't like dust or noise. My personal preference is to be able to stop so fast I have to put my face back on. But you may have other priorities.

I purchased these items from partsgeek.com, and maybe rockauto or autohausaz.com. I can't recall. It gave me a headache too, and I blocked it out.

I chose the balo coated because I don't like rust and I'm not expelling gases on a race track. Drilled lessens grip on normal driving but expels gases on the track. Slotted expels gases but shreds your break pads to ****. And both decrease the time to warping of the rotors. That doesn't work for me.

So I went with Keep it Simple Stupid, and just got the solid rotors that don't rust on the outside. I also put in steel brake lines just because I can. It doesn't help unless you're on a track, but it's nice to know my brakes won't go **** up if and when I really need them. Like when being chased by cops or ravenous clowns.

So I hope that helps. I keep my car in OE condition. No spinner rims or aftermarket crap. There are lots of choices for brakes. Think of how you use the car in reality, not in your dreams, and pick your brakes based on that. Good luck.
 

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Not sure of your year e34 (the link is for a 1990) but these folks have done OK by me so far. But if you need to contact them directly, that can be problematic. They suck in that department...

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1990/bmw/525i/brake/brake_rotor.html

Even if you do not go with a steel braid upgrade, Carefully inspect the rubber brake lines for cracks. Especially at the crimp points. It may be time to replace them.

Smart thing would be to order a couple of extra rotor retaining screws. They often strip or are already stripped. If that be the case...

Ensure your car is properly on the jack stand, position the rotor so the screw is on the bottom, grab the top of the rotor and give it a quick hard jerk. That screw will snap at the head and the rotor will be off. The screw can then be easily taken out with pliers. Although the car would not fall, do not have your feet under there when you do this and do not pull so hard that you smack yourself in the mouth with the rotor. I do not want to be a topic on the post from Ross1 :lmao::lmao:

A second way is to use a tungsten carbide left hand drill bit. Spray with cutting oil and go easy. Once it has a good bite it should turn out the screw.
 

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I ended up getting pagid red from bav auto and they are pretty damn decent, the zimmerman rotors are average I would say. I had ebc rotors and red pads on my 328is and loved them. Little squeaky at times but once warmed they were great. Make sure to buy 4 rotor to hub screws cause good chance they may be seized.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Bimmer
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Rick. Have you considered upgrading to the e34 M5 brakes ? And do you have steel brake hoses installed in your car?
Thanks for the suggestion roberto but I'll stick to OEM or slightly better. As for the brake lines, I'll inspect them and if they need replacing I'll consider braided lines as the cost difference isn't much more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did mine recently with the autozone rotors and duralast gold ceramic pads. I have about 10k miles on them so far so good.
Thanks Cryobmw,
Checking them out although still researching. This may be the option as autozone is currently running a rebate for purchases over $100, not to mention if they are defective they are local as opposed to shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Radian, Cardriver, ThoreaHD, JC540I, & rdorman,
Thanks for the suggestions, as they are very helpful. I'll let you all know what I find out with my brake job and what I end up purchasing. I will mic the rotors as I've read on here that if they fall within the tolerance limits they can still be reused. I've been wanting to buy a micrometer for some time now anyway.
 

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Get a dial indicator as well and check them for axial and radial runout. I generally just replace them any more but I still take a dial indicator to the new ones to see if they are out of spec. Rare these days (Brembo's never in recallable memory) but sometimes a combination of hub and rotor tolerances add up and you can index them.
 

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Thanks Cryobmw,
Checking them out although still researching. This may be the option as autozone is currently running a rebate for purchases over $100, not to mention if they are defective they are local as opposed to shipping.
Cant beat the lifetime warranty on the pads and 2 year warranty on the rotors. I have done a few other sets (on friends bmw's) and all good as well. Waaaaaaay less dust on the rims as well!!!!
 

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Roberto...

Axial is across the front or surface of the rotor. using a dial indicator can tell you if you have uneven wear or warped rotors. A micrometer will not tell you if they are warped or not. Radial run-out is around the radius of the rotor. I would be interested to know why one would need to check the radius though ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Roberto...

Axial is across the front or surface of the rotor. using a dial indicator can tell you if you have uneven wear or warped rotors. A micrometer will not tell you if they are warped or not. Radial run-out is around the radius of the rotor. I would be interested to know why one would need to check the radius though ???
Will these do CarDriver:

http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html

and this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/0-to-1-inch-range-digital-micrometer-895.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cant beat the lifetime warranty on the pads and 2 year warranty on the rotors. I have done a few other sets (on friends bmw's) and all good as well. Waaaaaaay less dust on the rims as well!!!!
Your right cryobmw, certainly hard to beat so I'm really leaning towards your suggestion. My wife drives this car locally around town and just needs oem parts, nothing high performance. I like the 2 yr warranty on the rotors :thumbup:
 
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