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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
 

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2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
Brake dust and performance comes together!
Go Jurid aftermarket if you want less dust but same performance (Jurid is OE manufacturer for E90).
At 52k you probably need rotors. Go ATE, Zimmerman, Pagid.


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2007 E93
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
Thanks for all the advice, very helpful. but one more question. Where is the best place to get parts?
 

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2007 E93
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
This car came with the s704 M Sport suspension package. That doesn't affect which brake parts I need right?
 

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2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
Mine has an occasional squeal when cold, and the CBS says they are as new which is confirmed by visual inspection. I wouldn't assume that it's a sign, necessarily. Try a $10 endoscope if you can't get a good pic, but with most wheels a mobile phone with flash should capture it.

My 750i, a far bigger and heavier thing, just got rear pads at 100T km / 60T mi. I can't get excited about rotors unless theyre warped, scored or clearly undersize based on a large lip. If yours isn't lippy, every chance it's OK.

I think the worst pads will maintain performance if you press harder - they only need to be strong enough to activate ABS and no pads would ever be sold that can't manage that. Indeed, making you press harder could improve braking. But harder compound can also be harder on discs. I've found BMW pads messy but surprisingly long-lived by Euro standards. I'd rather reinstall free pads under FCP's lifetime exchange than burn through a very expensive disc.
 

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So I assume [the squeal is] the pad sensor telling me I need new pads.
Bad assumption, there. BMW does not use a mechanical pad wear "sensor" that scrapes/squeals on the rotor when the pads are worn out. The wear sensors are electrical. If you have no warning messages in the instrument cluster or iDrive, at least two of your eight pads (LF and RR, the locations of the sensors) have not worn down to minimum.

Start by just inspecting your brakes all around (outboard and inboard pads). As a rough guide, without buying a gauge or fussing over measurements, the pads must be replaced if the friction material has worn to approximately half the thickness of the backing plate. If the remaining material is at least as thick as the backing plate, save your money (and start figuring out the real source of the squeal).
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bad assumption, there. BMW does not use a mechanical pad wear "sensor" that scrapes/squeals on the rotor when the pads are worn out. The wear sensors are electrical. If you have no warning messages in the instrument cluster or iDrive, at least two of your eight pads (LF and RR, the locations of the sensors) have not worn down to minimum.

Start by just inspecting your brakes all around (outboard and inboard pads). As a rough guide, without buying a gauge or fussing over measurements, the pads must be replaced if the friction material has worn to approximately half the thickness of the backing plate. If the remaining material is at least as thick as the backing plate, save your money (and start figuring out the real source of the squeal).
What do you think?
 

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What do you think?
Check your caliper bracket torque, and also that the set screw holding the rotor to the hub is secured. I use stainless for that one. Your rotor is sitting at an angle relative to the pads, resulting in uneven clamping, vibration, and likely the source of your squeal.

After success on my Silverado, I installed Raybestos Element 3 pads to the front of my E83 despite the Pagid pads having another ~40k miles remaining on them. Why? One drive and the front wheels were black, and brake-dusted wheels are on par with rust and oil leaks when it comes to pet peeves that should be criminalized. ;) The E3s are a ceramic/metallic hybrid, and are a win-win: neither vehicle accumulates brake dust on the wheels and still look clean when the vehicle is washed 1-2x every two weeks, and I have not noticed any qualitative loss in braking performance. My truck weighs 3 tons, and I've carried a ton in the bed, and also towed 3 tons on trailers without brakes, so if the pads can stop 6 tons of momentum from 55-60 mph, I think they can handle an E9x toy car. :p
 

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Don't worry about the set screw. That's a non-issue. The only purpose of the set screw is to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off the car. Once you install the wheels and torque the lug bolts the set screw has no real purpose.

You can also measure the thickness of the rotor. There is a minimum thickness that is either stamped or cast into the rotor to tell you when they need to be replaced. Also if the rotor is severely scored it needs to be replaced.
 

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Don't worry about the set screw. That's a non-issue. The only purpose of the set screw is to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off the car. Once you install the wheels and torque the lug bolts the set screw has no real purpose.
I'll further elaborate. The screw itself isn't the issue; if the set screw is torqued and the rotor flat against the hub, that means there is a greater issue with the brake system geometry. If the screw is missing and the rotor is dancing on the hub with the wheel removed, yes, proper torquing of the lug bolts should true it.

If there's no inner nor outer lip/ridge to the rotor, there is no need to measure it.
 
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