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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'll further elaborate. The screw itself isn't the issue; if the set screw is torqued and the rotor flat against the hub, that means there is a greater issue with the brake system geometry. If the screw is missing and the rotor is dancing on the hub with the wheel removed, yes, proper torquing of the lug bolts should true it.

If there's no inner nor outer lip/ridge to the rotor, there is no need to measure it.
I‘ll jack it up tomorrow and check everything to see if I can find the issue. Honestly, I was questioning the need for pads but the sound it was making is identical to the sound of those metal tabs scraping on the rotors of other cars. What made me think it was something else was the fact that I only heard the sound when turning the wheel and riding the brakes into a parking stall. But then I started hearing it in straight line stops.
 

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What do you think?
I measured the pads from my car. From my estimates, the backing plate is 7.5mm. My spec sheet says the sensor gives the yellow 5000km warning so you can get your order ready at 3.7mm, with minimum spec 3mm. (Practical operational limit for pads is probably 1mm in my lay opinion, although you will have a very annoying red warning the whole time.)

Those pads are 8mm or so. That's closer to new than to replacement.

When you finally replace them (in about 40T), one of the rotors looks a little scratched. Could be an illusion - how does it feel if you run a fingernail down it? It's probably not deep but one the rotor is off can you really be bothered having it machined?
 

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I‘ll jack it up tomorrow and check everything to see if I can find the issue. Honestly, I was questioning the need for pads but the sound it was making is identical to the sound of those metal tabs scraping on the rotors of other cars. What made me think it was something else was the fact that I only heard the sound when turning the wheel and riding the brakes into a parking stall. But then I started hearing it in straight line stops.
Grab the wheel and shake at 12 and 6 to check for wheel bearing play. I don’t like how your pads aren’t sitting true to the rotor faces.


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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Grab the wheel and shake at 12 and 6 to check for wheel bearing play. I don’t like how your pads aren’t sitting true to the rotor faces.


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You mean when front wheels are off the ground? I have to go buy a low profile floor Jack tomorrow, I discovered the one I have is to tall for this car lol
 

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You mean when front wheels are off the ground? I have to go buy a low profile floor Jack tomorrow, I discovered the one I have is to tall for this car lol
Yes. You shouldn’t be able to move the wheel at all. If you do, you have play in the wheel bearings and/or ball joints. Easy to tell which it is with an eye on the control arm, or doing the same test on the rotor with the wheel off and an eye on the caliper. I did an Outback last year whose rear wheel bearing was so bad that the pads looked like door chocks.


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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
so I finally got the wheel off after looking for the wheel lock for an hour. I’m not sure the wheel has ever been removed before. I had to pry the wheel off of hub. But it looks like the sensor is touching the rotor. Or is my pad broken?
 

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There is quite a bit of crud in there. I'm also not sure I'm seeing the caliper piston seal/boot or it looks like it may be torn. It may just the the perspective of the photo though. Spray some brake cleaner in there to clean everything up so we can see what is in there.
 

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That inner pad looks IMO bad.
If wheel has never been taken iff it is quite possible you have stuck pins. Best thing is to disassemble brakes and check condition of all parts, pins, boots, pads etc.


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And here I thought the wheel was already removed for the original set of photos; if the outer pad is that cocked with the wheel and rotor fully installed and torqued, then you have some investigation to do.
 

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If wheel has never been taken off it is quite possible you have stuck pins. Best thing is to disassemble brakes and check condition of all parts, pins, boots, pads etc.
I was thinking along the same lines. With that much difference in wear between inboard and outboard pads, plus duke's points, plus the rather friable appearance of the inboard pad, those calipers likely aren't sliding well, if at all. Definitely time for at least a tear-down, inspection, and cleanup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Helmet Bumper Concrete Composite material Automotive exterior
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Automotive tire Rim Cylinder Gas Wood

And here I thought the wheel was already removed for the original set of photos; if the outer pad is that cocked with the wheel and rotor fully installed and torqued, then you have some investigation to do.
So I think I know why the pad looked like it wasn't flat on the rotor (see pic) its the design of the Jurid pad. Nothing was loose at all, in fact I need a rubber mallet to loosen the set screws holding the caliper. Other then a bunch of brake dust chunks, the boot is not torn or anything like that. Do you think the outer pad is glazed or is that normal? the light shining on it makes it look worse then it actually is.
 

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So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
In the circumstances you describe, you should give the discs a light machine in order to get a perfectly smooth surface. Most BMW's come with ATE ceramic pads. They are very good and highly recommended. There are many good aftermarket pads however, just make sure you get ceramic ones otherwise your mag wheels will be full of black dust.
 

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2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
if your pads are worn to the point where you are hearing a squeal ( often caused by metal backing of pad contacting metal rotor), it is curious that you are not getting a brake pad replacement light on the dash. As to new pads, I put HAWK HPS (High Performance Street) on my E39 and was very satisfied.
Note: Don’t forget to replace brake pad wear sensors.
 

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So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
Akibono pads I find to be the best for no dust and same braking power...
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I put everything back together without replacing the pads and no more squeal. So I'll see how many miles I can get out of these pads. I learned a lot about BMW brakes from all of you and I really appreciate everyone's input. I had to spend $100 on a new floor jack but at least the money didn't go to the dealership and I have a new jack that fits under my car now.

Thanks again.
 

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2007 E93
So I'm hearing a squeal in my drivers side front when i'm turning the wheel and braking when parking. So I assume its the pad sensor telling me I need new pads. I've replaced brake pads before on other cars, so I want to do them myself. what I'm not clear on is:

1. With 52,000 miles, do I need new rotors too? They feel smooth.

2. There is way to many brake pads to choose from. I want the same if not better braking power that I have now. I dont like the all brake dust but I want the same performance. any suggestions?

Thanks
If there's no chatter in the pedal when you apply the brakes, then you don't need to replace the rotors. For pads, I highly recommend Akebono pads. Exceptional stopping power and very little brake dust. I've used only this brand for the past 15 years.
 
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