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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm would like to get new pads all around and front rotors.

Any suggestions for street/track use? For rotors, I was thinking ATE power disk or OEM Cryo-treated. Pads, Porterfeild R4S? There are so many :dunno:
 

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Nate, I am partial towards the Porterfield R4S for street use, and R4 for track. Check my earlier posts on this subject within the last 2-3 months (can't find it right now), I think a lot of people put in their two cents at the time too.

Later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Raffi said:
Nate, I am partial towards the Porterfield R4S for street use, and R4 for track. Check my earlier posts on this subject within the last 2-3 months (can't find it right now), I think a lot of people put in their two cents at the time too.

Later.
Thanks, I found this one

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12635&highlight=Porterfield+R4S

I was leaning towards the R4S. I would like to avoid changing pads (no garage, tool space, etc) I would take a bit of fade to avoid the change, but the stock pads fade too much on my car.
 
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I have not tracked my setup yet, so I can only comment on street performance (as autox doesn't demand any more from my brakes than street driving).

I replaced my rotors with the OEM (Brembo) cryo-treated rotors and the pads with Hawk HPS pads. The Hawk pads have better grip and supposedly less fade than OEM but are still rotor friendly and as quiet as the stock Jurid pads. As I replaced the pads THEN the rotors, I can say that I have not noticed any feel difference with the cry rotors. But the cryo-treating is supposed to help with fade and increase rotor life and those traits can not be assessed in street driving.

The pads were about twice what OEM pads cost and the rotors were only a little less than what non-cryo cross-drilled or slotted rotors run.

And these are the choices I decided on after a lot of bimmerforums.com archival reading. Your needs may vary.

But I am pleased so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
TD said:

And these are the choices I decided on after a lot of bimmerforums.com archival reading. Your needs may vary.
You mention BF.com, I hate their search engine. Each term must be at least 4 letters. How am I supposed to find 'ATE' or 'R4s'? :mad:

Did you get your rotors from www.frozenrotors.com? What was the turnaround time? I'd like to have them in by next Wed. :p
 
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nate328Ci said:


You mention BF.com, I hate their search engine. Each term must be at least 4 letters. How am I supposed to find 'ATE' or 'R4s'? :mad:

Did you get your rotors from www.frozenrotors.com? What was the turnaround time? I'd like to have them in by next Wed. :p
Yup. They came from frozenrotors.com even though I ordered them through TC Kline Racing. Same price.

And, yes, searching the archive there is a *****. Especially when something like "E36 M3" is not a valid search term since each component is too short. But you work around it.

Try "Porterfield brake pads". There is a lot of discussion about Hawk vs Porterfield. The Hawk HPS are similar to the Porterfield R4S. While the Hawk HP+ is silimar to the Porterfield R4. However, the Hawks are cheaper than their respective Porterfield counterpart. And I did go with the "S" choice for both rotor friendliness and less noise.
 

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nate328Ci said:


I was leaning towards the R4S. I would like to avoid changing pads (no garage, tool space, etc) I would take a bit of fade to avoid the change, but the stock pads fade too much on my car.
I think you will be happy with the R4S until your driving skills catch up with the limits of that pad. I used the R4S for several driving schools until I reached its fade limits. Strangely enough, the R4 actually bites better when cold, and has a more linear feel, than the R4S, but the noise level is horrendous - I got tired of people's looks when I came to a stop at a red light!

Let us know how your experiments turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Raffi said:


I think you will be happy with the R4S until your driving skills catch up with the limits of that pad. I used the R4S for several driving schools until I reached its fade limits. Strangely enough, the R4 actually bites better when cold, and has a more linear feel, than the R4S, but the noise level is horrendous - I got tired of people's looks when I came to a stop at a red light!

Let us know how your experiments turn out.
The R4 is better cold? wow, mabye....

How is the wear on both pads?
 

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nate328Ci said:


The R4 is better cold? wow, mabye....

How is the wear on both pads?
Yeah, I was surprised too, but the R4 performs better when cold than the R4S does when cold. I only used the R4 for three track days, and the wear seems good so far. The R4S also wears well in my experience. I used the pad for about 6-8 track schools on them, as well as daily driving for about 6 months. That's good pad life in my book! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Raffi said:


Yeah, I was surprised too, but the R4 performs better when cold than the R4S does when cold. I only used the R4 for three track days, and the wear seems good so far. The R4S also wears well in my experience. I used the pad for about 6-8 track schools on them, as well as daily driving for about 6 months. That's good pad life in my book! :thumbup:
excellent

Do you use OEM rotors?
 

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nate328Ci said:
excellent

Do you use OEM rotors?
Yeah, for now. In a separate thread started by HACK in the general forum, we were talking about track pads/brakes in general, and it looks like I will be testing out slotted rotors if I can get my hands on some, because last I had checked, no one made them yet for the 330, just the 323 and 328 E46.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: I've had excellent results with Hawk HP Plus pads.

abqhudson said:
Stock rotors. IMO, slotted/drilled rotors are primarily for looks.

\Jim
I disagree with you on that, there are functional benefits of slotted and drilled rotors.

But, I think that I'm just going to do pads, I don't hink the rotors are worn. :dunno:
 

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My opinions:

Cross drilled rotrs afre mainly for looks. They don't do much for performance.

Slotted rotors do a good job of removing gas buildup between the pad and rotor, but at the expense of increased pad wear from the slots.

For pads:

Omy M3 I have found that with the weight and speeds, track pads are a must.

I have used a set of Cool Willy pads from Turner. They worked very well for a weekend at the Glen. No excitement, the pads just flat worked.

They stop well enough cold to drive tgo/from the track. They do make a lot of dust. They only noise I had was the first stop of the morning.

Pad wear seems to show about 2 weekends like the Glen for the fronts, the rears should go much longer. My bedding may have not been the best for pad life. I didn't want to give up a session.

Other combos:

Since the bulk of the porblems with track use are the fronts, there may be some combos that may work to allow you to only swap front pads.

I am running Mintex pads for street use (low dust, good stopping). They could be paired with Mintex C Type for the front on the track. The C pads are supposed to have long life, used by endurance racers. I will probably try this setup next year.

Porterfield R4S for street, with a set of R4 front pads for the track.
 
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