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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently been having a problem with the banana. Seems that when I hit a moderate bump with the right rear I hear and feel a hard, loud bang from the right rear. It's funny because small bumps or even large ones don't produce the same sound. The RSM's and shocks were replaced about 3 months ago with the Meyle mounts and Bilstein shocks. Got under and into the car today and the mounts look OK from what I can see of them, I can't see any worn bushings in the trailing arms or diff mounts and it does not appear to be a subframe issue either because no tears or cracks can be seen from above or below (isn't taking the cargo compartment apart fun?!). Tried to test the shocks by bouncing the car but the springs are so stiff as it is, it is hard to tell if perhaps the shock went bad. It's not the battery, it's not the tool tray and it is not the hatch bouncing, I am totally lost. If anyone has any suggestions as to what it might be, please, I would be glad to hear them.
 

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Check your rear sway bar mounts. There was a problem with earlier Z3 coupes and underspec'd sway bar links. Thought BMW would 've fixed it by now.
 

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Check your muffler, re-check shock mounts (fun part) and I'm not sure, but you might want to check your sub frame bushing. I had a clunking sound on the right side of my car before changing the sf bushings, but ever since I had the I.E. bushings installed I don't hear it.
Keep in mind though, my stock sf bushings did NOT look bad at all.. :dunno: so do this as your last check of your process of elimination, as it can be rather fun also.
 

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Lower shock bolts. I had the driver's side one loose and it made a racket. I know it was tight so it must have loosened up. Use lock-tite on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is there a way to check a gas shock other than bouncing the car or having to remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tore apart the cargo area again and I can't believe what I found, worn RSMs. The suckers are a little over 3 months old. There are rubber flakes all over the inside of the dust cap and the upper washer on the passenger side looks like it went through hell. Checked to see if everything was tight and it was. Gonna visit Rogue tomorrow to get their rear shock mounts 'cause I don't want to go through that cargo area again.
 

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Uj2 said:
There are rubber flakes all over the inside of the dust cap and the upper washer on the passenger side looks like it went through hell.
How were the washers below the shock mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They (bottom washers) appear to be fine. For a moment there I thought I assembled the shock/rsm incorrectly but apparently not. Since the mount went so fast it seems it can be one of 4 things, the mounts are defective, the mounts stink, they aren't the best to use with Bilstein shocks as they are stiffer than stock or I screwed up somewhere but don't know where.
 

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Uj2 said:
They (bottom washers) appear to be fine. For a moment there I thought I assembled the shock/rsm incorrectly but apparently not. Since the mount went so fast it seems it can be one of 4 things, the mounts are defective, the mounts stink, they aren't the best to use with Bilstein shocks as they are stiffer than stock or I screwed up somewhere but don't know where.
Don't know. The first mount to fail is normally on the drivers side.
I'm interested in this because I also have the Meyle mounts on my M coupe with Koni shocks. After 5K miles they are still fine. I used to change out my stock mounts annually (9K miles) and they looked fine too.
I have the BMW reinforcement plates with the studs (tach welded) facing down so it's easy to change them out with out tearing the trunk apart.
Post or send me some pics of your install and I'll look at them.
On my install, I have the top rear shock mount washer convex side facing down.
The bottom rear shock mount washer convex side is facing up.
I also have a washer on the bottom shock mounting point (pic of my '97 318ti) which is known to come off the mounting bolt without it. See the following pics.





 

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Long shot but worked for me

I have been looking for a right rear rattle/bang/klunk for months. I was under the car two to three time a month. removed all the tools and everything else at least twice. Checked RSM's and shocks, Ebrake cables, etc,etc.
I eventually looked at the tire inflator in the right rear and found that it was put in backwards.
I turned it around and got rid of the rattle/bang/klunk. I have the newer one. The handle should be toward the inside of the car. Round nose forward. If it is in backwards it banges against the rear moldings.
Easy enough to check.

MarkL
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ron Stygar said:
I also have the Meyle mounts on my M coupe with Koni shocks.
Yup, saw the thread where someone sent them to you for testing. Hope you have better results than I do. Would the Koni's be any less firm than the Bilsteins? I think the new shocks were a contributing factor to their failure.

Ron Stygar said:
On my install, I have the top rear shock mount washer convex side facing down. The bottom rear shock mount washer convex side is facing up.
Sorry but no pics on how the shocks were installed with the Meyle mounts, I replaced them with the Rogue units before reading your post but they were installed the same way.
Comparing the used Meyle mounts to the used stock mounts which I kept after replacing them, pressing the center of the Meyle mounts with my thumbs I can deflect it by about a full 1/4 inch where the stock mounts barely move. It's probably worth mentioning that the Meyle's were purchased off Ebay. Were they from a reject batch? Maybe.

There's no doubt that with the new mounts the ride difference is like night and day (Duh!). The Rogues are nice units and if the RSMs need service again, it can be done from the OUTSIDE of the vehicle. Good thing too, used all new fasteners when reassembling the interior so the rattles and squeeks are all but gone. The car now sounds and feels so damn solid.
 

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Ron,

Just for clarification, you put gaskets above and below the body sheet metal when doing the RSM installs, correct?

I ask because I'm about install the Rogue RSM's. Their instructions only show a gasket below the body sheet metal -- and I assume the benefit of a second gasket is a small reduction in noise/ vibration.

Just to check, the gasket part number is 33-52-1-128-734. I got these gaskets long ago -- and may have thown a second pair of gaskets in the bag. (One of those mod that celebrated a birthday or two sitting in the garage.)

Photo of gaskets attached.
 

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Ron,

Just for clarification, you put gaskets above and below the body sheet metal when doing the RSM installs, correct?

I ask because I'm about install the Rogue RSM's. Their instructions only show a gasket below the body sheet metal -- and I assume the benefit of a second gasket is a small reduction in noise/ vibration.

Just to check, the gasket part number is 33-52-1-128-734. I got these gaskets long ago -- and may have thown a second pair of gaskets in the bag. (One of those mod that celebrated a birthday or two sitting in the garage.)

Photo of gaskets attached.
Daniel doubles up the gasket count, but I generall just use one between the mount and underside of the body (the only area of water ingress).
 

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Ron,

Just for clarification, you put gaskets above and below the body sheet metal when doing the RSM installs, correct?
I have the Z3 reinforcement plates with the studs facing down welded in place.
One under the plate and one above the RSM or like you said.

Based on a Z4 bulletin, I put two above and below the sheet metal.
 

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The way I look at it... it won't do any harm, and it's a cheap way to help prevent paint damage on the top side (which might then later lead to our favorite aluminum to steel corrosion). Mine have had gaskets top and bottom for several years now, no problems to report.
 
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