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Discussion Starter #1
98 m3 pulling the p0340. Autologic 61 i think?
Cam sensor signal IMPLAUSABLE.
Cam sensor reading holds at 59°
Code appears immediately at startup.
Car symptom is just laggy power.
Had 4 sensors run through from all brands including oem.
Engine timed correctly, triple checked.
Complete wiring harness was swapped with a new one.
New DME was also brought in.
Code appeared after blow head gasket job. New head was brought in.
There was a random grounding wire that went from block to head.
Nothing else connected to it, and the wire looked home made.
Cam code is the ONLY code that the car is throwing.
Tried swapping batteries as well to be sure.
Alt pushing a strong 13.5ish.

Anyone have an idea whats going on?
We've been throwing everything we have at this and nothing is working.
Even ideas ive searched on the forums.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Screamin demon
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If you timed with cam lock tools. Either the vanos gear is inserted 1 tooth off, the vanos seal is bad (probably from the milk of the bad head gasket if it didn't clog it) or the camshaft bolts are over tight and not allowing the vanos to adjust the cam angle.
Also check the vanos soleniod wireing to see if Its not shorted on itself.
 

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I think Spydergod is on the right track. There's no sensor on the vanos solenoid, it's just a dumb switch, so the ECU engages it, then looks for the cam timing to change. If the timing doesn't change you get the cam position sensor code P0340 or you get code P0341 which is cam position sensor performance. I had a sticky vanos solenoid and I was getting either of the codes. Sometimes it was P0340 and sometimes P0341. I suspect it may just be a weak point in their fault isolation tree.

Disconnect the vanos solenoid and see if anything changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did forget that part too. Vanos was rebuilt. But i do think the solenoid is the same. Ill take a try with that and see what happens
 

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Screamin demon
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Just saying here, dont take offense.. If the vanos gear is inserted 1 tooth off, the dme will sense the vanos isnt at the appropriate angle on engine start. After 2 starts it will trigger and set the code. Changing sensors doesn't fix the cam angle. The dme wont set a code because of the vanos solenoid on startup as even if the soloniod is stuck closed or open, the camshaft will set itself at proper angle when the engine shuts off from lack of oil pressure or a closed soloniod. So retract about the vanos soleniod.
If the camshaft is stuck at an advanced angle, either the vanos gear is set wrong, or the secondary timeing gears are bolted too tight. If indeed the vodes are on startup. Thee car would have to be running and ran through various load conditions before bad vanos seals would trigger a code of advanced or stuck cam angle. Especially 59 degrees. Isnt it supposed to be somewhere around 22 degrees on startup?
 

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Just saying here, dont take offense.. If the vanos gear is inserted 1 tooth off, the dme will sense the vanos isnt at the appropriate angle on engine start. After 2 starts it will trigger and set the code. Changing sensors doesn't fix the cam angle. The dme wont set a code because of the vanos solenoid on startup as even if the soloniod is stuck closed or open, the camshaft will set itself at proper angle when the engine shuts off from lack of oil pressure or a closed soloniod. So retract about the vanos soleniod.
If the camshaft is stuck at an advanced angle, either the vanos gear is set wrong, or the secondary timeing gears are bolted too tight. If indeed the vodes are on startup. Thee car would have to be running and ran through various load conditions before bad vanos seals would trigger a code of advanced or stuck cam angle. Especially 59 degrees. Isnt it supposed to be somewhere around 22 degrees on startup?
Same boat here fellas. Did many of the same things as origonal post (sorry, forgot name).

If I put the Vanos back in 1 tooth off, how do I get it right? Is there a TDC or some markings in there to gauge off?

Thanks for any replays. 20190119_192145.jpeg 20190112_141220.jpeg 20190110_222007.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Bimmerfest mobile app
 

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Screamin demon
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If you dont do the engine work on a consistant basis, its best to have the cam locks on. Then have the secondary timing chain pulled back as far as it goes. The vanos hellical gear will have a certain position that allows it to sit inside the camshaft very slightly. Almost a mm or so. Then while applying pressure the the vanos system (pushing in) you spin the secondary timing chain that sucks the vanos hellical gear in. You have to make sure that when you spin the secondary timing chain it immediatly pulls the gear in. If there is any pause then the gear isnt set right initially and should have been adjusted.(rotated clockwise or counterclockwise). You can tell if the gear is set right WHEN the gear is sucked all the way in to the camshaft by rotating the secondary timing chain. Meaning that the back end if the hellical gear will only be slightly sticking out past the outside camshaft spline gear.
If your doing it withoutthe cam lock tools, you have to accomplish this withthe camshaft still being at the straight edge angle on the back block of the camshaft. A common mistake is theintake camshaft turns while sucking the vanos gear, which sucks the vanos gear in all the way but leaves the camshaft at the wrong angle. This allows the engine to run,but loss of torque, and possible phantom codes to come up such as afr, fuel trim, camshaft, and vanos.
 

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Screamin demon
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Also make sure that the timing gear bolts and nuts on both camshaft are at proper torque, there is oil in between the sprockets and not dry,
Its imperative that they are not overtightened as it will lock up the vanos or cause rapid wear of the gears and plates which willeventually lead to a costly replacement of parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update on this. Solenoid didnt work. So going in for incorrectly put in. If thats a no go, i have an alpine white 98 M3 sedan with auto trans and 170k for sale. $3k.
 
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