BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, Deathstroke here.
(see previous threads)
(optional read) As ive mentioned, ive changed out CCV(PCV), cleaned ICV, and Throttle body, replaced TB gasket, new MAF. changed oil (Full synth M1 0w-40), new plugs (NGK Plats).
The reason for all these changes was that, well, besides the obvious, that my CCV was out, my car would stall rough on cold starts and no power to the wheels, running rich etc..
Well, after a heavenly 2 weeks, my car has been running rough on cold starts again, really rough. Sputters at 500rpms (usually idles smooth at 700rpms). so ill let the car warm up for 5 min, turn it off, and turn it back on, runs and idles smooth.
I noticed that my VCG is bulged in a corner of the Valve cover, literally, so ill be replacing the Valve cover gaskets, the Vanos seals, the Fuel filter/regulator, and another oil change (because i added seafoam to this oil change, the previous owner had over 8 quarts in the engine, and the oil was pitch black. no bueno.)
I mention this for you all to stay tuned with the results on how the car runs after changes. (end optional read)
after this is replaced i will be draining out my coolant system.

My car is too low, and i have no mechanic friends, and i have one jack, no jack stands, so i cant get to the engien block coolant drain bolt.

Will it work the same if i were to unplug the bottom hose on the drivers side, heater on, and just run the car that way? just literally let the car run with the hose unplugged, will that get it all out? or atleast most of it?
Please advise, any suggestions or precautions will be appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,749 Posts
Probably. The radiator drain plug is right at the bottom of the radiator. It will empty the rad and much of the block.

Buy some stands at Harbor freight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@525isport

@edjack thanks for the link! made me lol, okay i get it, ill get jacks jeez :p

@525isport

these drain plugs are hard to take off though, i wont have the leverage. i can try though.
so to drain it all as much as i can. do i unplug the bolt with the car ON, or OFF only?
can i runt he car as the radiator drains keeping my eye on the temp gauge?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
best to drive it up to operating temp so thermostat open and then drain (CAREFULLY its hot ) no need to have the car running because when the coolant level reaches below the water pump there is no benefit to having it running anymore . yea get the stands i posted they will pay for themselves after first use
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
if you dont trust yourself with stands, find a good set of ramps. I love me some good ramps.

oh, and don't run the car while draining. You will potentially cause catastrophic damage in a few minutes of no water in the head. massive amounts of heat will rise to the highest point and start working the car over.
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
Typing /ramp f3 in the bestlinks nets this, which will be helpful:
- How and where to jack up the BMW E39 with pictures of jack pads & jacking points (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & what jack stands to buy or make (1) & how to make or buy car ramps for your BMW E39 (1) (2) (3) & what floor jack requirements does the E39 need (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

As for draining the cooling system, typing /drain f3 nets these which the OP should read & report back on:
- Various methods for draining & refilling (1) (pdf) & bleeding the cooling system for all E39s (1) (2) (pdf) & instructions specific for the V8 (1) & the BMW TIS for bleeding the cooling system (pdf) & for working on the cooling system (pdf).
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top