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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 550i. Got home from work yesterday evening and the car was not starting at the parking garage. The engine cranks, but the car does not start. Also tried to jump start, and same issue.

Issues I observed:
  1. Starter cranks, but engine does not start. Same when doing a jump start
  2. Fuel Pump does not prime when entering vehicle or Key in ignition
  3. Windows, lights, headlights, CCC etc all power up

Here is a summary of the diagnosis I've done so far:

  • Battery
    - Checked at Autozone and held charge fine.
    - Checked with multi-meter Pole to Pole, Pole to Clamp, and Clamp to Pole and all showing same voltage (~12V)
    - Checked the jumper points in the hood and multi-meter shows 12V
    - Checked with hidden menu and showed ~12V
  • Fuel Pump Relay (in glove box)
    - Replaced with a new relay and car still does not start
    - With relay removed, checked the signal to pin 30, registers 12V
    - With relay removed, I shorted pin30 and 87 and it causes the fuel pump to turn ON
    - With relay removed and with pin30 and 87 shorted (and fuel pump ON), I tried to start car and car cranks but still didn't start.
    - With relay removed, checked signal to pin86 with Key in Ignition and it correctly shows 12V.
    - With relay removed, checked signal to pin85 against metal body (with Key in Ignition) and shows 3.5V(!!) (this is supposed to be ground. I believe this signal comes from DME). Pin 86 to 85 is supposed to be 12V to cause the Fuel Pump to start, but it registers 8.5V since the ground is not coming correctly.
  • Fuses
    - Checked fuses in fuse box under passenger micro-filter under the hood. All looked fine. Where is the DME Relay?
    - Checked fuses in glove box and all looked fine.
    - Checked fuses in trunk and all looked fine.

Could use your help to understand what to check for next. My instinct says to focus on the possible electrical / ground issue: Ignition switch or DME Relay as those should precede the Fuel Pump Relay in order of operations for the car to start.
The key issues to text next are:
  1. Why would the Ground show 3.5V to the fuel pump relay? This comes from the DME relay correct?
  2. Where is the DME Relay location? I was expecting a blue or green relay but have not been able to locate it anywhere.
  3. Could it be the key ignition switch? How to test it?
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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according to your diag, this shouldn't make a difference..

BUT what happens when you spray the intake with some starting fluid?
 

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Why would you think this is battery related if the car cranks? Doesn't sound like the battery or the starter if the engine cranks.
I think you're on the right track if you're thinking fuel pump. The fuel rail under pressure if you loosen?
There gas in the tank? Wouldn't mention that but it's been overlooked before. :angel:
 

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Why would you think this is battery related if the car cranks? Doesn't sound like the battery or the starter if the engine cranks.
I just went through this last week.

Car cranked, no start
No low discharge warning
clock had correct time

Towed into service for diagnostic
*Bad battery
 

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I just went through this last week.

Car cranked, no start
No low discharge warning
clock had correct time

Towed into service for diagnostic
*Bad battery
And that fixed your issue, huh?
Wow, it just sounds like typical dealership shenanigans to me when something else is likely root-causing it. The battery cranking the engine without fail just normally means it's strong enough to run all the electrical sub-systems too, but then again maybe the state of charge is just too weak to also run everything properly and cause the no-start condition.

Who knows, but do I know these cars can freak out after the car is started and running due to low state of charge battery issues, so it behooves us all to run the latest and greatest software revisions and occasionally throw battery tenders on these 'old clunkers'. :thumbup:

BTW, Doug, this is a great resource, so thanks for posting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm working through these tests and suggestions this week.

I just went through this last week.

Car cranked, no start
No low discharge warning
clock had correct time

Towed into service for diagnostic
*Bad battery
Did you car start with a jump?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why would you think this is battery related if the car cranks? Doesn't sound like the battery or the starter if the engine cranks.
I think you're on the right track if you're thinking fuel pump. The fuel rail under pressure if you loosen?
There gas in the tank? Wouldn't mention that but it's been overlooked before. :angel:
Thanks for the reply. Car definitely has gas in the tank. I'll check pressure at the rail. Though fuel pump audibly runs if I jump the FP relay and doesn't seem to run otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
according to your diag, this shouldn't make a difference..

BUT what happens when you spray the intake with some starting fluid?
I have a spark tester coming tomorrow and will check for spark and report back. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Under the lift arms
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i didnt say spark test.. I said starting fluid In the intake..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you everyone for your help so far.

I was able to make some progress this weekend so wanted to update. Again, thanks for all your help.

Here is what I've done:
1\ Spark - tested and not getting spark
2\ Fuel pump - works when jumped at the relay, installed a new relay too. ECU is not sending the signal to prime/run
3\ crankshaft position sensor - I replaced this. Was a 2007 part, might as well.
4\ Battery - charged at Autozone, currently 100% 12.7V.

Still doesn't start. Cranks, but not start, no spark, no fuel pump running/priming.

Bought a BMW Carly, reset all the codes. And diagnostics now shows 3 faults:

Engine: 0x2F44 - EWS Manipulation Protection
Other: 00DE50 - Ring break diagnosis was performed
Other: 00DE51 - Long and / or frequent Unlocks

Is the EWS manipulation leading to "crank but no start" now?

What is best next step?

1\ DME + CAS sync. I just need INPA and a Cable, correct? Or I can find someone locally to do this.
2\ Get new battery - I'm still open to this being the original issue
3\ Possible DME is bad - I'm still open to this being original issue. (It had been raining all week. I did a car wash a week before the car went bad and drain on passenger side was full of leaves/dirt causing water to flow into passenger side carpet through the microfilter overflow. I didn't see any signs of water in the fuse/dme compartment.)

@NoQuarter - certainly open to battery being bad. It has a date of April 2015. Autozone keeps telling me it is testing fine and charging fine. But I've seen the same on an E39 a few years back where Autozone says battery is fine but replacing it fixes issue.

@Burning2nd - appreciate your idea here. I have not tested with Starter Fluid as without any spark I didn't think it would help.
 

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Under the lift arms
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you have a EWS fault.. that is what is stopping you from running.. you are going to need software, like INPA, or ISTA , GT1,

* and the starting fluid test is designed for when you first cant start, its a 30 second test that can be done anywhere with no tools
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
EWS can be a bastard, cars not stolen is it?
lol
lol. no, but I just bought it less than a month ago.

I ordered the cable and downloading INPA now. I'll try the EWS sync with INPA in a couple of days and report back.

Have to wonder if the battery should still be replaced at almost 4 years old? I still don't know if the battery caused the non-start or CPS (since replaced).
 

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when the car sits, plug it in on trickle charge,

If the car has been sitting for while.. its probably low on voltage, A simple volt meter can confirm that,

I cant diag a battery over the internet.. Its litterally.. Start with KNOWN good battery, so im not going to pass judgment on your battery... What i can tell you in that part of the garage, IS I only buy interstate Mega tron's there is a reason they are 50-100$ more

I get 15 years out of a battery (ish)
 

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Can anyone point me in to the right thread, regards to what a good charge and charger would be for my Bmw. I’ve recently purchased a e60 535xi and the temp outside dropped and I started getting a fault for my all wheel drive system.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

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14.4 VDC +/= .2 % under full load,

*start a new thread
 

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Discussion Starter #20
when the car sits, plug it in on trickle charge,

If the car has been sitting for while.. its probably low on voltage, A simple volt meter can confirm that,

I cant diag a battery over the internet.. Its litterally.. Start with KNOWN good battery, so im not going to pass judgment on your battery... What i can tell you in that part of the garage, IS I only buy interstate Mega tron's there is a reason they are 50-100$ more

I get 15 years out of a battery (ish)
Do you recommend AGM battery or Standard? I have a simple 1.5A Schumacher battery maintainer I plan to use once a week since I don***8217;t drive very far on a daily basis.
 
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