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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just bought a 2010 e60 535i with the n54. I’ve had for about two weeks and the only known issue was oil pan gasket. I got it fixed and when I got it back I went for a drive to get food. I was driving and I got engine reduced power I pulled over turned car on and off and code was gone and it was fine. I was driving home when I get the same code but this time the car went into neutral and wouldn’t go back into drive. I pulled over turned off and tried to turn back on and nothing it won’t even crank.the car had a light which showed the car leaning to one side but that went away and it showed a transmission light but that also went away. I got it towed home and have since changed the battery but still nothing. I press the start button and I can hear I think the fuel pump but it doesn’t even try and turn over. One day the alarm just kept going off about every 30 seconds even with the battery disconnected. I don’t have any idea what this could be and don’t have the funds to take it to bmw to get it fully fixed. Please help me.
 

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2001 325i 5mt, 2009 535xi Touring 6mt
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The alarm has its own separate battery. Learned this after I was replacing the battery once and it started going off. It’s supposed to last roughly 10 years according to some documentation I saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I’ve had a guy come who had a computer which ran everything and he said the codes that came up were multiple dme codes and others I can’t think of right now but said there was no faults showing on his system. He said that could be do to having the battery unplugged before scan which it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Scan codes using BMW scanner, post results here.

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So I’ve had a guy come who had a computer which ran everything and he said the codes that came up were multiple dme, cas,starter,inop but said there was no faults showing on his system. He said that could be do to having the battery unplugged before scan which it was.
 

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If you start changing parts based on comments made from your not to precise description then you may as well start burning your money.
Start by getting a diagnostic scanner as described in the “New here …” permanent posting in this Forum. The pdf file contains a lot of nuggets about how our cars work and how to diagnose them. Being able to read codes and clearing them is vital. If you can’t do that then you cannot diagnose the car correctly - and even with a scanner it is an art form.
I know you are desperate to get your car up and running again but to many factors can play in so swapping something like this is, in my mind, a bad idea.
Yes, it could be the starter but it could also be water in your e-box, lack of ground connection a bad generator a bad sensor. The way BMW designed the car was and is a bit like an airplane. If something happens then the car will drop systems in order to keep power to the vital ones, like brakes and engine. I had something that sounded like you are experiencing. I would drive happily and then I would loose active steering, dynamic drive, my speedometer would also stop working and my local BMW certified dealership and BMW support in Munich took more than 6 months to solve it. They would fix it and then it worked for a couple of days and then right back again. In the end it turned out to be my generator that couldn’t keep up as my car have all the extras that existed when it was originally ordered - but when tested it passed with flying colors.
So either pay your way out of it, or read the “bible” on E60 get a BMW specific scanner and then come back with something that is more meaningful if you want somewhat qualified help..
Best of luck with your “new” car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you start changing parts based on comments made from your not to precise description then you may as well start burning your money.
Start by getting a diagnostic scanner as described in the “New here …” permanent posting in this Forum. The pdf file contains a lot of nuggets about how our cars work and how to diagnose them. Being able to read codes and clearing them is vital. If you can’t do that then you cannot diagnose the car correctly - and even with a scanner it is an art form.
I know you are desperate to get your car up and running again but to many factors can play in so swapping something like this is, in my mind, a bad idea.
Yes, it could be the starter but it could also be water in your e-box, lack of ground connection a bad generator a bad sensor. The way BMW designed the car was and is a bit like an airplane. If something happens then the car will drop systems in order to keep power to the vital ones, like brakes and engine. I had something that sounded like you are experiencing. I would drive happily and then I would loose active steering, dynamic drive, my speedometer would also stop working and my local BMW certified dealership and BMW support in Munich took more than 6 months to solve it. They would fix it and then it worked for a couple of days and then right back again. In the end it turned out to be my generator that couldn’t keep up as my car have all the extras that existed when it was originally ordered - but when tested it passed with flying colors.
So either pay your way out of it, or read the “bible” on E60 get a BMW specific scanner and then come back with something that is more meaningful if you want somewhat qualified help..
Best of luck with your “new” car.
I will get a scanner first then thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have gotten a scanner. The codes that came up were
A0B4 engine start,starter operation
A559 instrument cluster. Power supply switched off
9d44 alarm memory voltage supply tampering
I tried clearing codes and I rescanned after. The codes that came on then were A0B4 and 9D44. The code A559 went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will get a scanner first then thank you
If you start changing parts based on comments made from your not to precise description then you may as well start burning your money.
Start by getting a diagnostic scanner as described in the “New here …” permanent posting in this Forum. The pdf file contains a lot of nuggets about how our cars work and how to diagnose them. Being able to read codes and clearing them is vital. If you can’t do that then you cannot diagnose the car correctly - and even with a scanner it is an art form.
I know you are desperate to get your car up and running again but to many factors can play in so swapping something like this is, in my mind, a bad idea.
Yes, it could be the starter but it could also be water in your e-box, lack of ground connection a bad generator a bad sensor. The way BMW designed the car was and is a bit like an airplane. If something happens then the car will drop systems in order to keep power to the vital ones, like brakes and engine. I had something that sounded like you are experiencing. I would drive happily and then I would loose active steering, dynamic drive, my speedometer would also stop working and my local BMW certified dealership and BMW support in Munich took more than 6 months to solve it. They would fix it and then it worked for a couple of days and then right back again. In the end it turned out to be my generator that couldn’t keep up as my car have all the extras that existed when it was originally ordered - but when tested it passed with flying colors.
So either pay your way out of it, or read the “bible” on E60 get a BMW specific scanner and then come back with something that is more meaningful if you want somewhat qualified help..
Best of luck with your “new” car.
I have gotten a scanner. The codes that came up were
A0B4 engine start,starter operation
A559 instrument cluster. Power supply switched off
9d44 alarm memory voltage supply tampering
I tried clearing codes and I rescanned after. The codes that came on then were A0B4 and 9D44. The code A559 went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You should tell us the codes. It might very well be starter. It is not that difficult to change. I recently did the job. Parts cost around 200 dollars. Let me know if you have any question.
The codes that came up were
A0B4 engine start,starter operation
A559 instrument cluster. Power supply switched off
9d44 alarm memory voltage supply tampering
I tried clearing codes and I rescanned after. The codes that came on then were A0B4 and 9D44. The code A559 went away.
 

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The codes that came up were
A0B4 engine start,starter operation
A559 instrument cluster. Power supply switched off
9d44 alarm memory voltage supply tampering
I tried clearing codes and I rescanned after. The codes that came on then were A0B4 and 9D44. The code A559 went away.
As I said way before, it is most likely STARTER. There are test you can do by multimeter to confirm it is absolutely starter. You can also give 12 volt to starter after removal and test it.
If you are willing to do it yourself. You need to get E14 wrench not a ratchet otherwise you won't be able to remove the bolt back of the starter. Those are aluminum, easily can be stripped.
 

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I just picked up a 2008 528xi same no start situation - same code AOB4 just waiting on the 2nd starter from db electrical to get here since the 1st one installed was defective, a TYC out the box. I should have never even installed that starter due to the starter having a electrical burning smell but I gave it a shot.I installed a TYC in my 99 540i with zero issues so I bought another TYC.
1038953
Please post back an update on your no start situation.
 

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Update: New starter installed yesterday, starts up strong and runs great!!!! I want to point out that before you remove your starter make sure it's the starter with 20min of testing. CHECK THE ENGINE GROUND STRAP- mine was green and corroded so I replaced it with a $12 AC Delco ground strap since the dealer wanted $80 for the oem BMW ground strap.
1039195
 
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