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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Fixed. Fix at bottom.

So left the car for a few days, and came back and it wont hold idle, was running fine a few days ago tho..

No INPA Codes,
No Vac Leak, I did smoke test there are no INPA codes either,
I blew in the ICV hose and its alright.

Not sure where to begin really??

Can Hear the Fuel Pump But the Realy I cant hear clicking even if I put another relay.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #2
Now it wont even fire up, just cranks but wont start.. still NO CODES.

WTF...
 

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So left the car for a few days, and came back and it wont hold idle, was running fine a few days ago tho..

No INPA Codes,
No Vac Leak, I did smoke test there are no INPA codes either,
I blew in the ICV hose and its alright.

Not sure where to begin really??

Can Hear the Fuel Pump But the Realy I cant hear clicking even if I put another relay.
I'd check the camshaft sensor and check fuel pressure.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #4
Will check the Cam Sensor Tomorrow, But thing is its got NO CODES?...I mean no error codes, sure I will get a code if I pull a maf plug or something like tps etc due to being unplugged but other then that, no error codes. keeping the gas pedal also does nothing.


Pulled Fuel Pump Relay and Jumped 12V+ and I can hear fuel pushing on the rail/injectors, will grab fuel pressure tester tomorrow.

Cranks then gets slow to crank.. Coolant Temp Sensor?
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #5
PS: just came to mind. I think my engine may be flooded with fuel because last time it was running I abruptly blocked off the intake (due to some tests) and havent started since.
 

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A flooded engine will still crank if left sitting for an hour or two. Has you computer gotten wet or is the fuel pump working. Both of those would cause your problem. Check the fuel pressure in your line to make sure it's getting the amount of fuel it needs. Also a clogged fuel filter will starve it and prevent idle then no crank as well.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #7
Well I tried another battery (fully charged all night)

There is Spark, But it just cranks and wont start as the video will show below, also NOTE: the RPM needle wont move (only moved the first time I tried it).

Fuel Filter was Changed less then 2000KM Ago, Fuel Pump seems to be coming on but haven't tested pressure. This has got me stumped!

https://youtu.be/XKchqmmrqBc
 

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I'm still saying cam sensor but check fuel pressure, mb try disconnecting the intake tube from supercharger but I'm saying cam sensor or fuel issue spray either or flammable aerosol, bug spray works if that's all you have. If it starts you're not getting fuel or or or you're not getting fuel do to two issues cam sensor or fuel pump.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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160 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm still saying cam sensor but check fuel pressure, mb try disconnecting the intake tube from supercharger but I'm saying cam sensor or fuel issue spray either or flammable aerosol, bug spray works if that's all you have. If it starts you're not getting fuel or or or you're not getting fuel do to two issues cam sensor or fuel pump.
Seems to have good fuel pressure? But that doesn't mean that its going into the cylinder as in bad cam sensor that wont allow injector puse or so..

Supercharger is already out of the loop so its only NA/STOCK only MAF and Air Filter with the ICV neck.

I am also leaning towards those two, I have a new crank sensor and a cam sensor so will be testing those soon. Also will try starting fluid will WD 40 work?
 

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Seems to have good fuel pressure? But that doesn't mean that its going into the cylinder as in bad cam sensor that wont allow injector puse or so..

Supercharger is already out of the loop so its only NA/STOCK only MAF and Air Filter with the ICV neck.

I am also leaning towards those two, I have a new crank sensor and a cam sensor so will be testing those soon. Also will try starting fluid will WD 40 work?
I don't think it's related to your setup, wd40 probably won't work, a flammable brake cleaner or carb cleaner will do just fine or a little bit of gasoline in the intake will work.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #12
I know it isn't either because it was working all fine and dandy as in starting up and holding idle just fine over a few days ago till I parked it up to do some modifications. But for now what its worth I have put the setup out of the equation and have been trying to start the car as is, (which it always has with or without the setup) But it just wont. I have some brake and parts cleaner I could try I guess. But lets see what happens with the crank and cam sensors swapped..
 

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Ps: my car is running well not perfect once the vanos kicks in it pulls insanely hard, it's a little weak at lower rpms but I think that's do to the lowed compression starts spooling at around 1600 rpms, so just let the boost keep you going ;). Also my setup for the brake booster is a little weak so if you are tracking your car it's not perfect and have to hit the brakes a little harder but it isn't overly excessive.
 

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I know it isn't either because it was working all fine and dandy as in starting up and holding idle just fine over a few days ago till I parked it up to do some modifications. But for now what its worth I have put the setup out of the equation and have been trying to start the car as is, (which it always has with or without the setup) But it just wont. I have some brake and parts cleaner I could try I guess. But lets see what happens with the crank and cam sensors swapped..
You are lucky I work the late night shift in the states, I'd try those aerosols you have, and if you have the stock m52 fuel rail and crank it a few times and if the Schrader valve shoots fuel out when you press it in I wouldn't suspect the fuel pump.
 

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Still thinking about putting your supercharger setup on a sc14 on eBay here is from $350 on a good day to $500 do you think it would be worth it? I already have a meth/water injection setup ready to go which I slapped together for around $120. Did you see a good amount of low end power?
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just put in a OEM Crank Sensor and Guess what, It wont work.

I cant take out the Cam Position Sensor because BMW Designers are Pieces of Sh#%'s who poorly designed it all that keeps faulting out where it shouldn't like a bloody 32mm Vanos Solenoid thing that requires a bloody 32mm wrench to remove! and in such a position that its impossible with a pipe wrench, so I now gotta go buy a 32mm wrench, problem is nobody here sells that size. woopty doo. I have just about had it with these cars, I can do better engineering in my back yard then the cu*Ys who designed these cars and all their tightly packed garbage that wont even work half the time

/ vent...


Sounds like your cars doing just fine, maybe just a little tune up would make that little power lacking thing non existent, I have been playing with rom raider for a week now, I might know a few people who might be able to help you tune it remotely even for next to nothing I guess, just some ebay cables and some software is all you need as long as the ecu is flash able :)

As for my setup, I get around 10 PSI at 3000RPM, and its a stock motor, I could have a set of brackets cut, for $500 USD I could likely buy a blower and ship it to you, The shipping is really half of it. But yea, if you wan to experiment with compound boost, may want to try it, but would hate to increase your head ache or lower your wallet weight, I know how these projects can drain your paitience. I mean you already have a build motor, might as well tune it up and turn up the turbo boost :D as for me... turbo is not a option here in the arse of the world, its rhd in nz. Whats funny is Its not my setup which is failing me, its these bloody piss poorly constructed cars.
 

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Just put in a OEM Crank Sensor and Guess what, It wont work.

I cant take out the Cam Position Sensor because BMW Designers are Pieces of Sh#%'s who poorly designed it all that keeps faulting out where it shouldn't like a bloody 32mm Vanos Solenoid thing that requires a bloody 32mm wrench to remove! and in such a position that its impossible with a pipe wrench, so I now gotta go buy a 32mm wrench, problem is nobody here sells that size. woopty doo. I have just about had it with these cars, I can do better engineering in my back yard then the cu*Ys who designed these cars and all their tightly packed garbage that wont even work half the time

/ vent...

Sounds like your cars doing just fine, maybe just a little tune up would make that little power lacking thing non existent, I have been playing with rom raider for a week now, I might know a few people who might be able to help you tune it remotely even for next to nothing I guess, just some ebay cables and some software is all you need as long as the ecu is flash able :)

As for my setup, I get around 10 PSI at 3000RPM, and its a stock motor, I could have a set of brackets cut, for $500 USD I could likely buy a blower and ship it to you, The shipping is really half of it. But yea, if you wan to experiment with compound boost, may want to try it, but would hate to increase your head ache or lower your wallet weight, I know how these projects can drain your paitience. I mean you already have a build motor, might as well tune it up and turn up the turbo boost :D as for me... turbo is not a option here in the arse of the world, its rhd in nz. Whats funny is Its not my setup which is failing me, its these bloody piss poorly constructed cars.
I feel the pain my first e36 which I have owned for 5 years and only put on about 5,000 miles us:thumbup: and it's always something.

Try using an alternative fuel source and if it starts fuel problem.

I have the eBay cables it's just I didn't take the webpage design advanced class so all of it is above my level. If you know someone who would be able for a reasonable fee I would gladly throw my money at that then the 1k-1500k the tuners want here.

Also I would be interested in the setup for a sc just in the process of moving but after that I would be ready to go, I mean this would probably be the first sc turbo e36 right? Plus budget build so haters would be hating ++++
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #18
a few hundread bucks should sort your tuning woes for a base map, if the ecu is flash able, let me see if I can sort out my headache of the car, I will help you set up everything on a old laptop or something whatever you have around, then maybe see what can be done and put you through with some people, I am using a old hp 6730 that I picked up for like $40 bucks or so shipped. has a charger and a good battery and its all I use. Get tuned first then go from there I say be it a blower or more boost, I have learned quite a bit hanging around these people. :)

I am going to grab some starter fluid, some other bits and pieces tomorrow including a bloody 32mm wrench.. then start off.
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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160 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I am seriously considering Cylinder Wall Washed out.. Thats the first thing I want to try out tomorrow morning,

basically what happens is

that during cold weather, the ECU injects more fuel then usual to help the car start, but if you shut it down right after, it washes the cylinders of the oil and gets little to no compression.
my thoughts originally but I will have to go try it out and see..
 

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///Power Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #20
I fixed it.

It was exactly what I suspected. Who wants to know what it was? :D
 
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