So as we were attaching the jumper cables to my E90, the ground clamp popped off and shorted/sparked near the DME/control box grounding bolt. Now my car won't start. It just cranks, but never turns over. The following warning symbols light up: yellow ! in circle with parenthesis around, ! inside triangle with semi circle around with arrow pointing counter-clockwise with ! to the right, and lastly, the yellow car up on the lift. I'm trying to avoid the tow to the dealership... So far, I've checked and ruled out blown fuses in the DME/control box, replaced the light blue relay within the DME/control box, checked multiple fuses in the glove box (but not all..so tedious)..and I've disconnected the battery for at least 15 mins. I have a generic OBD scan tool and it only shows a U0100 (lost communication with ECU). It seems like the car is in a protection mode, thus keep fuel pump from activating... I'm wondering about the power distribution box on the battery, but I'm still getting current from the red jumper post in the engine area, so I'm assuming the fuse there is ok. Any chance the Battery Safety Terminal (BST) would be triggered? Although, that seems to be more related to impact related accidents...? Any help on what else I can check/replace before having to call the tow service is much appreciated!:bawling:
Car won't start after jump starting another car...
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A little knowledge about the electrical system .
A little knowledge about the electrical system .
Tells me I would never jump another car with my BMW.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...70IsyKRlg&sig2=QMFCkvncUv4X9eUv4oRQoA&cad=rja
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/...3;jsessionid=9177D28002F12EE9F24242A6C62198A5
Read the above and do voltage checks for starters.
You could have blown out the IBS or blown the battery disconnect device.
They have made these things to complicated .
Registration only needs to be done if you are putting in a new battery.
A little knowledge about the electrical system .
Tells me I would never jump another car with my BMW.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...70IsyKRlg&sig2=QMFCkvncUv4X9eUv4oRQoA&cad=rja
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/...3;jsessionid=9177D28002F12EE9F24242A6C62198A5
Read the above and do voltage checks for starters.
You could have blown out the IBS or blown the battery disconnect device.
They have made these things to complicated .
Registration only needs to be done if you are putting in a new battery.
Thank you both for the quick responses and wealth of info. I finally gave up late last night, swallowed my pride and went to bed in utter defeat. I made the BMW tow call first thing this morning and am still awaiting a diagnosis/solution. Fingers crossed it's not a fried ECU.... Thanks again.
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10,511 Posts
The problem: You have lost your Mojo.
There is a British spy/action documentary on the subject, or you could look into new parts.
Bad, I know....but it can be saved!
You must:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zokQXbhY-0Q&feature=player_detailpage
So an update... The dealership has had my car for six days now...and still can't get it started! Day one they advised the DME/ECU needed to be replaced (thank goodness for the warranty) and that took two days for authorization and shipping. Now even with the new DME, the car still won't start. They claim that the after-market air intake/filter is preventing them from getting good diagnostic reads to identify why the car won't start. Seems odd as I've had an after-market air intake/filter on for months with no issues and never threw any codes with it on. They want me to bring the OEM intake/filter in to re-install...and they hope they'll be able to troubleshoot at that point. Seems like the dealership is just fishing around and have no idea as to how to get their car started... So frustrating.
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8,298 Posts
to be fair to them, i suspect the jump start event fried quite a bit of electronics gear-- they are probably doing stepwise diagnostics and have to rule out everything as they clear codes.
i would just toe the line with them at this point-- if they discover the failure was caused by an improper jump start event, none of what they are doing would be covered under warranty and you will have a very very large bill to pay.
i would just toe the line with them at this point-- if they discover the failure was caused by an improper jump start event, none of what they are doing would be covered under warranty and you will have a very very large bill to pay.
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6,329 Posts
My bet it will be a simple and relatively low cost part covered by warranty.
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1,288 Posts
No they do not. Please research before making uninformed suggestions.
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2,510 Posts
David do you have anything helpful to add or did you just feel like making a useless post?
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8,298 Posts
he is correct.
your post that a battery needs to be re-registered after being disconnected was incorrect and not relevant to the OP's issue.
in any case, battery registration (or lack thereof) would not cause a no-start condition.
a new replacement battery needs to be registered as the charging system increases the charging current as the battery ages to compensate. this needs to be reset with a *new* battery to prevent shortening its life by overcharging the new battery
sorry to hear about the problem. i have had few people ask me for a jump before. the thing is i would never jump start anyone elses car with my bmw. theres too many sensors and electronics to risk something happening. people have gotten mad but i always ask them if my car doesnt start if they will pay for repairs. i do carry cables though which i have lent to others to jump their car from someone ese. hope all goes well OP.
Sounds like the the black jumper cable slip and touch a positive terminal on the car which cause the spark. That surge of current could have fired a number of modules, one would hope that the fuse would have protected the circuits but that doesnt seem to be the case here. With that said, I never jump anybody with a modern car, way too much electronics in there to get into trouble. I leave the jumping to AAA or a battery charger.
Not to hijack the thread, but.... It would seem that only BMW replacement batteries could be used as a non-BMW replacement battery could have a different 'aging' profile. Or, am I raising an issue that doesn't apply?
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8,298 Posts
if you switch from an AGM to a flooded battery, there is more coding that needs to be done. otherwise, the charging profile of a lead acid battery is from what i understand pretty much the same for all batteries of the same general type. (bmw uses a bunch of different OEMs for its batteries)
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