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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a date tonight and my car won't start... :(

I got in to my car, pressed the clutch, and pushed the start button. The car made a few clicking sounds and I heard it crank for a split second then it gave up. I turned off the car and tried it again. This time it clicked once and gave up.

The battery is fine (radio, computer, A/C, headlights work; tried jumping it as well). The car computer tells me my engine oil is low and to add in a quart. Last year the car needed engine oil out of nowhere so I always keep a quart in my trunk, I put that in the engine. Still won't start.

Not sure if this matters but last Saturday while driving home I was hitting 100 mph for some time (25 minutes?) and I pushed it to 150 mph on a straightaway for about 2 seconds.

I'm thinking its the starter? Also the weather has been a bit chilly here in NY.

Any advice?

Thank you.

2009 BMW E93 55k
 

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The battery is fine (radio, computer, A/C, headlights work; tried jumping it as well).
Try jumping it by pushing the negative cable of the helper battery onto a metal part of the engine. Sometimes the engine-chassis ground cable connection gets rusted and prevents starting.
 

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If it doesn't crank anymore but you hear the little click of the relay whenever you try to hit the start button that means it is the starter. Brushes are probably going bad. To get it to free up you can try to get a long bar and smack the starter pretty hard a couple times to free it up temporarily. That is what happened to mine sometimes before I just replaced the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update: It was the starter. Tried using a long ratchet to hit it a few times but it wouldn't spin.

Towed it to my mechanic ($80 mechanic's rate), starter + labor ($645), needed an oil change anyway ($100).

Date went great though!

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
They say that the battery is okay (I guess I'll just have to take their word on it). As for the IBS they say the car threw them 3 error codes - alternator, IBS, and another which I forget but they said they have to replace the IBS first because it is "priority". So they replaced it today and then the 2 other codes disappeared but then the car threw other codes including CAS module 50, DME, and some others. They say the CAS is "priority" and "hopefully it will clear the DME and others" tomorrow when they can get the part from BMW. I will upload the reports when I pick up the car. There goes my tax return.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And yes I guess they do not know why or how because when I asked them what could've caused this they straight up said they don't know. When the IBS code came up they asked me if I made any electrical modifications to the car such as a speaker system or others. Only "mod" I did on the car are the LUX angel eyes. I'm not too knowledgeable about automobiles but I'm pretty sure that couldn't've caused all this.

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And yes I guess they do not know why or how because when I asked them what could've caused this they straight up said they don't know. When the IBS code came up they asked me if I made any electrical modifications to the car such as a speaker system or others. Only "mod" I did on the car are the LUX angel eyes. I'm not too knowledgeable about automobiles but I'm pretty sure that couldn't've caused all this.

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The IBS is a simple beast - amperage, voltage; temperature. Amperage is a voltage drop measure over a low value resistor - usually 1 ohm.

Most complicated part is the processor/CANBUS chip - [click here] - where they say it can't be trouble-shot w/o the DME, they mean can't be assessed with BMW dealer available equipment. A savvy engineer can, but a tech will do what the book says to do, and usually know no more.
 

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.

And....book says can be bad battery, or IBS, but not both. So. Exactly how did they diagnose the battery, far more likely to be bad?

Um.....original battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Original battery is highly possible. I am the second owner of this car - 2009 55k miles. I asked them yesterday if it was an issue with the battery and they said it wasn't... I will ask tomorrow how they tested it. I'm sure if there was a battery issue they wouldn't think twice to suggest changing it...

I had the spark plugs, ignition coils, control arms, brake rotors and pads changed last year. Probably not related right?

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There's a serial data line that goes from the IBS to the alternator and DME and I bet they did not plug it in after changing the alternator....

Or some aftermarket alternators are known to not communicate with the DME correctly.
 
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