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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna try and remember the stuff on that whiteboard:

OK, I shrunk and rotated it to make it easier to read.

Marco used a timeline model to describe this, although its more of a frequency thing; i.e. the items on top get done the most often, the ones toward the bottom least.

1) OK, I dunno what the word on the left is, since I got there after it was written. But 'carwash' is pretty obvious.

2) wax the car pretty regularly (I wasn't there for any details here either)

3) Wax the car after using a paint cleaner, if necessary (I think he said every 6 mos for this)

4) Same as 3, but clay first. Once a year.

5) Use a stronger cleaning product and a glaze to restore sheen if necessary

6) Same as 5, but with a machine, which makes things go quicker but also allows the products to be worked harder

7) Professional high-speed buffing. He showed us a bigass DeWalt polisher that he warns is for the trained person only as it WILL burn the finish. He also warned that this will, if done properly, take a thin layer of finish (clearcoat) off, so isn't something that should be done often.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
That magical spray



I think the two products that wowed us were that pee-looking rubber cleaner, and the above 'Magic Spray.' I dropped by today to pick some stuff up, and got a can of this. He had a returning customer there, and was explaining its use to him a bit. It does have silicone in it, so its not for cleaning, nor should it be used in quantity. Its a 'touch-up' product to get into the nooks and crannies that usually requires a q-tip or something to get to in order to touch up minor grime, water spots, etc. Marco demo'd this on the MRoadster gills, which have little crevices that would normally be tough to detail. He also says it works miracles on wheels to repel brake dust. I'm gonna try this on half my wheels the next time I wash to see how well it does.

It seems that cleaner can be tough for some people to 'get.' That customer kept asking if it lasts longer than what he'd been using (another AutoGlym product), etc. Seems people are used to products that 'clean and protect' that something that's strictly for cleaning is harder to understand. This stuff is for CLEANING all that gunk off surfaces, leaving a 'factory' (his term) surface to which you can then apply your favorite conditioner/protectant.
 

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Re: That magical spray

Kaz said:

I think the two products that wowed us were that pee-looking rubber cleaner, and the above 'Magic Spray.'
Yup, I bought the "pee" cleaner and the spray. Got home and used the cleaner on the molding and was very impressed. Remember his parting comment was....don't use it on the interior...I think it may have a strong odor that would probably render you unconcious if used in the car.

I have to go to Simi next week so I am not going to detail my car this weekend, but I will next weekend! Washing with Dawn, clay bar, swirl remover, polish, and wax. I am estimating the whole process to be a 12 pack....or atleast 12 trips to the keg-o-rator!

I have not used the spray on my wheels yet, but I did use it on my wife's car (another fine German product with a brake dust problem) and will report on the findings next week.

FYI, the gibberish word in front of carwash is.....FREQUENT...
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
KP said:
DeWalt makes a buffer:dunno: ? Hmmmm, timeline seems pretty useful. But about 6,7: when does this need to be done during the year?
There's a smaller DeWalt that I've seen in some Meguiars literature, but this was some huge one that looks more like a big angle grinder or something.

I think he said 6 is in year 3 (from new) and 7 in year 5. Obviously these were general guidelines, and you should decide on what needs to be done based on the condition of the paint and such.
 

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I wiped my wheels

One of my wheels got sprayed as a demo at the clinic. Before putting the car away for the week, I wiped off the wheels and on the wheel sprayed with the silicon stuff, the brake dust wiped off much easier.
 

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Ex-Dictator
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Intermezzo said:
DeWalt is famous for their Rotary polishers, but they also make DA polishers as well (DW443). It's just like the PC, but with a larger motor.
I posted over on the other board too. PC is not available here, so I'm looking for alternatives.

Is the DW443 safe for the paint (ie. no risk of paint burning or overheating) ?

The specs are saying that it has an OPM of 8400-15200 min /-1
 

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Marco recommended no step #7 for guys like us

and I think I'll stick with that, but at $150 (what he was selling the Porter Cable unit to us for), I think I'll go for that.

$150 sounds like a decent price for the Porter Cable :dunno:

Alex, if your coming here anyway, why not take one back!
 

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Re: Marco recommended no step #7 for guys like us

scottn2retro said:
and I think I'll stick with that, but at $150 (what he was selling the Porter Cable unit to us for), I think I'll go for that.

$150 sounds like a decent price for the Porter Cable :dunno:

Alex, if your coming here anyway, why not take one back!
Scott, according to the guys, the PC is working with 110V, we have 220V here. A voltage converter cost lots of $$$$. :(
 

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I didn't realize

I didn't think 220 down to 110 was that expensive. Of course, we're talking about a lot more current here than an electric razor, but I wouldn't think they would be that outrageous. What do they cost?
 

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Re: I didn't realize

scottn2retro said:
I didn't think 220 down to 110 was that expensive. Of course, we're talking about a lot more current here than an electric razor, but I wouldn't think they would be that outrageous. What do they cost?
somewhere around $260 :yikes:
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I see the 443 spec'd at 4300-6800OPM, and the PC 7424 at 2500-6000. Marco said the PC shouldn't be used above '4' so the 443 might be a bit fast at its lowest setting.
 

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Kaz said:
Marco said the PC shouldn't be used above '4' so the 443 might be a bit fast at its lowest setting.
Not sure who Marco is, but I don't agree with him. :D I think moving the speed to the 5 or 6 setting is important (after starting out at speed 2) in helping the polish's diminishing abrasives to take effect and leave a glossy, marr-free surface. He wasn't by any chance referring to rotaries...was he?
 

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Even I don't remember for sure

and I was there. I'll have to ask him (I'm calling him today for another matter). Marco is the owner of Carnuba Store and I think he was worried about us rookies having it on the highest setting and leaving it in any one spot too long. I think his advice would differ depending on the level of the people he would be talking to (like having us NOT use the DeWalts without proper training).

But like Intermezzo says, I believe he also started at one number and moved up.
 

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Intermezzo said:


Not sure who Marco is, but I don't agree with him. :D I think moving the speed to the 5 or 6 setting is important (after starting out at speed 2) in helping the polish's diminishing abrasives to take effect and leave a glossy, marr-free surface. He wasn't by any chance referring to rotaries...was he?
Marco was refering to the PC DA not a rotary. He specifically told us to not use a rotary as most people will damage the car.
 

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Scott/Kaz/Chipster:

When you apply the In&Out Spray to the wheel do you just spray on and let it dry?? Do you need to wipe it down or agitate it somewhat after spray on??

I am using my one and only bottle of Rain-X wheel protectant so I am interesed in this spray for after wash wheel coating.
 

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Spray LIGHTLY

spray lightly and let it dry (it will dry to the touch quickly if sprayed lightly). Again spray lightly and quickly in short little burst. As much as possible, avoid spraying on rotors and brakes.

When sprayed on grills, side gills, etc., wipe off overspray from paint.
 
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