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Ok for some reason the 30g relay is being activated all the time, and gets really hot. Which in turn freaks out, and causes the issues of NO power to,windows, A/C, radio and the wipers come on. Question is can it be the relay, or do I have problems with the CAS module?
 

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If its getting hot there is most likely resistance in the relay that is causing the issues.

If you can replace that relay (some are soldered to the fuse panel), then I would try that first before messing with the CAS module.
 

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Did you ever figure out the issue?

Any documents you can provide that breaks down the Terminal 30 operation.

Im having a very similar problem, i have no power to my A/C, Radio, Power Door Locks, and most notebaley... I have NO power to the +12v pin #7 on my OBD2 port, therefore i cannot even connect to the csr and check for fault codes.

I checked everything from the battery, to the multiple supply wires that run to the engine bay and the interior fuse box (JBE) from the trunk.

Pin #7 on the 16-pin OBD2 port is fed by Fuse-58, which is powered by Terminal 30...(Terminal 30- constant battery power, always on).

I traced the wire and according to all the wiring diagrams i can find from BMW & the Bentley Manual, the +12v wire for the OBD2 port runs to the JBE connector. Its one of the 2 main connections on the JBE (One is Blue & one is Black), i forget the exact connector and Pin# on the JBE side, but i want to say its pin#11??...

** I also get NO power to my gauge cluster to signal "Turn-On"(Kombi), bc i did find a pin for the Kombi connector that had +12vdc to it.

When the connectors on the JBE are removed, i did a continuity test between the OBD2 pin #7 (Batt. Pwr) and the JBE's appropriate connector and Pin# according to the wiring diagrams. However, i get no continuity. No if i test from the OBD2 port side, its showing a direct connection to ground. So im guessing, somehow that wire is possibly shorted somewhere. I have the dash removed now, amd whike i havent had more than about an hour to diagnose further after taking the Dash out, but i don't see anything obviously not right or a burnt wore smell...

Im kinda wondering what I should do next, bc i really dont want to start taking apart the factory wiring harness just yet, if i do not need too. That will a lott of time later on, to get everything back to the way it was oem/untouched...

Does anyone have an idea where the OBD2 port pin#7 +12vdc, goes to after it goes to behimd the dashboard. Bc it comes out of the OBD2 port as a Red w/ a Yellow Tracer, and is a Grey w/i believe a red Tracer on the JBE side. So therefore, there must be a connection point somewhere else behind the dashboard.
According to the fuse diagram that comes with the car, Fuse 58 is listed as only for the Gauge Cluster. Which is odd because the gauge cluster does absolutely nothing. No interior gauge lighting & no engine lights at all, completely dark..

BTW, my car is a 2007 BMW 335i E92 Coupe. Build date: 09/2006. USA-Spec car. LHD. 6-Speed Manual Transmission.

If anyone can help me in any way, that would be really appreciated. Whether it be more detailed OBD2 port wiring diagrams or JBE & Kombi Wiring diagrams, anything will help.

Some other things i didnt write... My Wipers are currently working on Full Speed, whenever the key is inserted and ignition on. The turn signals don't work. The brake lights DO work.

After searching, whats different about other people's issues is a no start condition as well. However, MY ENGINE DOES START RIGHT UP!!!!!!

but it seems like since its maybe not getting a signal with all the sensor data it needs, it seems to be running in a safe mode/limp mode map and is running rich. I have not tried to drive it, but it starts right up.

My main problem's are:
No Power to OBD2 port (possibly shorted)
No activity from Gauge Cluster (Kombi)
No power/functions to the HVAC system, PS window switch, Door Locks,
The JBE will make a constant click noise every 5-7secs which drains the battery fairly quicky..

I have already changed the JB & the JBE. No changes. I also tried a used Kombi Module, no change.
I also tried disconnecting all the modules one-by-one to see if one of the modules went bad and was causing problems on the Kcan Bus..

Thanks in Advance,
Anthony
 

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When that problem occurred, I had just bought the car. I didn?t have an owner?s manual, and didn?t know to shut the car down, one had to push the start button twice. Never had another problem,
 

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Same problem . My 93 yr old neighbors 09 328i . Replaced battery. Next day no crank. Energized 30g relay draining battery. She***8217;s never driven the vehicle but is very unhappy when it don***8217;t run.
 

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Pull and reseat the relay. If no change, replace the 30g. It's $25.
 

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...My 93 yr old neighbors 09 328i . Replaced battery. Next day no crank. Energized 30g relay draining battery. She's never driven the vehicle but is very unhappy when it don't run.
30G relay which is IO1068 on the schematic below, located on JB, top-right as per Installation Location below. Sounds like contacts stuck in closed position due to corrosion/ lack of exercise/ AGE. :D
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...cal-system/front-fuse-relay-module/1VnXpW4emV
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...acturers/i01068-relay-terminal-30g/1VnYuo3ZrW

RealOEM.com Part page for current part# 61366901469:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/pa...28xi&mg=61&sg=36&diagId=61_3925&q=61366901469

$17 part from ECS:
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E91-328xi-N52_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/61366901469/

BTW, HOW did you diagnose the CAUSE of the current drain?

Hope you can get the "Old Girl" moving again. :bigpimp:

George
 

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Unplugged blue -batt connector to remove batt. Mtc . System from equation. Vehicle would recognize fob inserted but no crank. Dash lit up as normal.car sat all night. First thing this am. I yanked that relay out. It was hot. This is a big relay. Big contacts and plugs. Not a sleeper kind of relay. Km 30 G functions OK. Unclicks when removed from socket. Tested fine with meter and visual. Something is turning it on. Batt wouldn't come up to 14 v until relay. Was removed. CAS module operates that relay , right? You always hear the fuel pump whine also. Starter wiring and most of car is pristine. I realize none of this is starter circuit but something ain't happy.
My 83 year old neighbor and best bud, car belongs to his older sister. She is giving him major sh** Cruz she blames him for not driving it enough. I'm a retired (not) troubleshooter.
Just got a msg saying reprogram cas.
Thanks
 

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Unplugged blue -batt connector to remove batt. Mtc . System from equation. Vehicle would recognize fob inserted but no crank. Dash lit up as normal.car sat all night. First thing this am. I yanked that relay out. It was hot. This is a big relay. Big contacts and plugs. Not a sleeper kind of relay. Km 30 G functions OK. Unclicks when removed from socket. Tested fine with meter and visual. Something is turning it on. Batt wouldn't come up to 14 v until relay. Was removed. CAS module operates that relay , right? You always hear the fuel pump whine also. Starter wiring and most of car is pristine. I realize none of this is starter circuit but something ain't happy.
My 83 year old neighbor and best bud, car belongs to his older sister. She is giving him major sh** Cruz she blames him for not driving it enough. I'm a retired (not) troubleshooter.
Just got a msg saying reprogram cas.
Thanks
At this point, you should search parasitic draw here. Recently posted was a test procedure to identify possible culprits, but its slow.

Plan B: send it to a dealer. If he can afford to let his car sit and depreciate, he can afford a diagnostic.
 

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Many things can keep the car awake enabling the 30g relay.

Read the first electrical pdf with regrards to the IBS and the electrical system.

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...dhOSc2JggwVqMGg&bvm=bv.60157871,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=Hx0XqNfe5pNZsCpGSZFnKg&bvm=bv.85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=P2mzAf34AGpTkGZOPnfzzg&bvm=bv.85464276,d.cGU

georges links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=823719&d=1539905743

Get some diagnostics Bimmergeeks.net cable and Inpa Ista D .
Without diagnostics you are just shotgunning.
Its a definite problem to let these car sit without a battery tender.
Have you had the battery tested?
 

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Thanks guys. I'm on it. Ordered pro com and cable. It appears to be user friendly. Appreciate all the helpful documentation. I've worked on hundreds of vehicles but never anything like one of these carfignugens.
 

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Received cable. Bought adapter, got protool. Registered battery. Saw code saying bad starter. Didn't want to mess with it ,summer heat and all.and he was in a hurry. He towed it to dealer. $1300. USD. One day turnaround. One less thing to worry about but I would have liked to save him some money. Thanks for all the help guys. I will be sticking around here Cruz I might buy the car for the wife. Thanks again!
 
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