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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all.. I have searched all over to find this topic.. and I am sure it is somewhere in this forum .. but I haven’t found it.. unless someone can point me to the right topic.. I would be thankful.. and delete this post..
so here we go.. I have recently bought a 2012 e70 3.5xi fully loaded .. I know it old for u guys.. but in my county the custom fees are 50% of the car price.. so I totaled with registration for 25,000$
Anyway.. I took it to my indi.. he said to change the transmission fluid and engine oil.. and seems that my catalytic converter is shot and needs either to be deleted or changed.. used goes 650$ and new for 1800$
Any advice if I want to delete the converter without getting the check engine light??

Carly report attached

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Beautiful car. Congratulations. How many kilometers does it have?

It sounds strange to have to change a Catalytic converter. Why does your mechanic say it needs it? How are the 02 sensors?



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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It’s 115,000 km on it .. which is around 72,000 miles for my American friends..
O2 sensors seems to be ok.. the attached report is from my Carly adapter .. which I used for my previous e90


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I don’t see anything in that Carly report pointing to catalytic converter.
I’d clear the codes, drive for a bit and see what comes back.



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IT IS NOT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER.

What a horrible 'mechanic'....

You have a air/fuel control problem. Likely a way rich condition...THIS is causing misses; and the hydrocarbons and unburned gas is tripping a catalytic efficiency code when the pre and post cat o2 sensors are seeing too much fuel.

Dont replace the cat, fix the air/fuel issue. You most likely have a cracked hose, leaky gasket somewhere under/around the intake manifold...or a vanos issue, clogged/sticky solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I really hopes it’s just a leaked or cracked hose.. anyway.. I cleared the codes.. when I changed the battery and drove about 60 miles with it.. these appear to happen when going above 4000 rpm or kick down the gas pedal.. then goes to limp mode and check engine..


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Lol. "Hope" it is a cracked hose???? You could spend hours and hours, hundreds of dollars, chasing that down.


Air mass plausibility.

This is NOT caused by a bad cat, understood?

Did some yahoo drive this around will 'cold air' intakes, or KN **oiled** airfilters?????? I would check your MAFs (mass airflow sensors)

Do this:

Find them
Buy a can of MAF CLEANER
Take the MAF out, clean it using the instructions.
Reinstall.
(This is a 30 min job with maybe a screwdriver)

IF THE SYMPTOMS ARE RELIEVED, even jsut a bit better, replace the MAF with new. (Be careful about counterfeit MAFs)'

The above sentence is specific. When MAFs get contaminated, there is a certain amount of 'gunk' that you will never clean. So if- after a cleaning- you get some relief, you have just taken off the soluable part of the gunk- crap still remains that cannot really be cleaned. Replace them.

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Discussion Starter #9
It turned out the charge pipe ... it wasn’t the converter.. getting a new one Tom.. let’s hope it solves the problem.. Maf sensor already changed with a new original one.. and I hope it’s cracked hose because hoses here are very cheap.. relatively to anything else that might end up costing near 800$ like the turbo itself


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It turned out the charge pipe ... it wasn’t the converter.. getting a new one Tom.. let’s hope it solves the problem.. Maf sensor already changed with a new original one.. and I hope it’s cracked hose because hoses here are very cheap.. relatively to anything else that might end up costing near 800$ like the turbo itself


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FWIW..dont say "it turned out to be" when in fact you havent replace the part and had it fix the issue!

Lets hope it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well guys.. the mag sensor is cleaned and charge pipe is changed .. the old one had a had a crack on the side .. the plugs are new and one coil was out also changed .. now the the engine still give the same fault but no rough ride with limp mode like before..
one minor thing .. the mechanic saw the valve on left exhaust was unplugged.. so he plugged it back in its place..
any thoughts??
The mechanic is checking all the pipes again.....
any ideas about where to check would be much appreciated ..


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does mechanic know how to check air fuel rations, fuel trims, long and short term adaptations???????
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don’t know.. to be honest.. I don’t even know.. and I’m a previous e90 owner .. today the Indy called.. and the valve of the muffler was stuck shut.. he cleaned it.. and cleared the codes.. he drove it WOT and no limp modes so far.. u think it was causing pressure?
Adaptations? Gear adaptations?!? Those have been reset!! Or are there any adaptations I should look for?


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Discussion Starter #17
Ok.. then if that valve was stuck shut.. would the car give me the limp mode if WOT


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I don’t know.. to be honest.. I don’t even know.. and I’m a previous e90 owner .. today the Indy called.. and the valve of the muffler was stuck shut.. he cleaned it.. and cleared the codes.. he drove it WOT and no limp modes so far.. u think it was causing pressure?
Adaptations? Gear adaptations?!? Those have been reset!! Or are there any adaptations I should look for?


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1, You said a 'valve on the left'. There is a valve on the right. Would a stuck valve on the left cause your issues? Dunno, as there is no valve on the left.

2. Would excessive backpressure cause issues? Maybe. All of these? CELSs on cats, missses, etc? hard to say.

3. "Air fuel adaptations" Do you understand how modern BMWs work? How they use the maf as well as O2 sensors to set the air fuel mixture? that these two readings are constantly adjusted via 'adaptations'?

Just google it, dont keep asking on your phone. Take an hour or two to get educated.

Not gear adaptations.

4. Reset all codes, drive it. if nothing comes back, if the fuel trims are all 'behaving', then you fixed the issue with one (or more) of the repairs.

;)
 
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