If you repair/replace the CVV, cooling system, belts & hoses, VANOS seals, LCABs, the car will be roadworthy for a long time to come. A couple of grand spent now to get things squared away will pay off in the long run.Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I just got this car from an older guy I work with who is in his late 60's. Can it be the resulst of him not driving hard? He got the oil change regurley. What else do you recomand doing to this car while I have it open? Also the car has 187K miles. Also what do you mean by "Get all the components changed" can you please explain?
I am currently doing an overhaul of the cooling system, CCV, Belts and Hoses, and Vanos seals.. but not LCABs.. does that really need to be done or only if I feel something is wrong? how do I check the Lower Control Arm bushings have gone bad?If you repair/replace the CVV, cooling system, belts & hoses, VANOS seals, LCABs, the car will be roadworthy for a long time to come. A couple of grand spent now to get things squared away will pay off in the long run.
Thanks... once I get the car on the road I'll be driving it 42 miles oneway... so that should slove the problem..To be exact, CCV blockage (and sludge formation) comes from short trips and not from slow speed.
- Short trips are generally defines as less than 7 miles b/c the engine does not fully warm up until 4-5 minutes later, and it needs another10-15 minutes to get rid of the contaminants in the oil.
- High speed is not necessarily beneficial. What good if you get out the house, drive very high speed to your work 2 miles away?
Anyway, the key word is engine oil temp when it comes to sludge. Hot oil (around 90-100C) is better than cold oil.
10. Replace CCV + hoses: Straightforward business.
- Note that the CCV mates into the Intake Manifold sideway via the Rubber Grommet so push the CCV toward the engine (from driver to pass side).
- The hose from CCV to the dipstick is standard 1/2-inch I.D. Heater Hose (you can get it at any Auto Parts Store).
- When installing the new CCV, do not connect the 11151703775----Ventilation Pipe at this time.
Thanks C90 this helpsYou did not state the year of your car, but I wrote a DIY for my 1998 528i here:
Step #10 mentioned this hose:
Fudman,The yellow mayo-like sludge you found is condensation of the oil vapors within the CCV system. Many folks have found it. It is exactly as the others said, a result of short driving trips that do not allow the engine to fully warm up. This is exacerbated in colder weather, where the CCV and related pipes do not warm sufficiently, allowing the oil vapors to condense on the walls of the CCV system and accumulate over time. That is why BMW insulated these components, to HOPEFULLY reduce the level of condensation. A poor fix to a poor design. Your 42 mile commute should definitely solve that problem. Your list of replacement parts will greatly improve the relaibility of your engine. If you are dissatisfied with your ride quality, consider replacing your front end (see cnn's DIY) as this totally rejuvenates ride quality.
Maybe the ATF is not Dexron III? If it's thicker, it's "heavier" to turn.I drove the car two/three days as is without any issues: "ride quality" but the only thing I have problem is the power steering is too stiff.. but since I am used to MB?
maybe I should go find a 528i to test drive and compare.
Power Steering fluid level is Good..but I don't know if it's Dexron III...Maybe the ATF is not Dexron III? If it's thicker, it's "heavier" to turn.
Maybe flush the old fluid and change with new fluid. Also, check and see how that PS (ATF) fluid looks. Is it brown? is it grey (I hope not)? Should be light pink.