https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-valve-cover-gasket-set-11129070990

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-valve-cover-sealing-washer-11121437395

Need at least 15 .

I like ECS better ...

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-parts/ultimate-valve-cover-gasket-kit/11129070990kt/

 

Cool yeah that's what I bought last time but the was all included grommets and gaskets

 

ive had good luck with elring

 

Yeah I'm going to go the Elring route again. I didn't notice this last time but how much does it matter?

 

It matters because they changed to the "Pencil" style coils 10/2002 going forward
on the M54. The coils won't seal/correctly in the rubber sleeves, get the correct ones for your year/build date.

 

if you look up your car on realoem.com, itll tell you the maufacture date of your car

 

Perfect!

 

his is an 02 530

if you right click on the pic, select view in new window itll get bigger.
its just production dates (before/after)

 

Yeah I was trying to make it larger and just figured it could be zoomed in on after a few attempts. Or I could have made it less wide..

 

as youre fairly new to the 530 world, if you havent made yourself familiar with installing a valve cover gasket, look it up on youtube, hylomar is a good gasket sealer to use, and make sure to seal the "half moons" well.

 

A small bead of sealer over the edges and down into the half moons is what you need on both sides of each half moon. If there are any joints between a front cover and the head, put a small bead across the joint. Do not use gasket sealer all the way around the main sealing surface.

 

Cool yeah that's what I bought last time but the was all included grommets and gaskets

Cool yeah that's what I bought last time but the was all included grommets and gaskets

Your mentioned spark plug source has Elring gasket kits and grommets at much less. Use the part numbers listed for Jason's vendor and you can find them easily. The difference you note is for the 2002 vs the 2003 model year. The black label in your driver's door jamb can also give you your production date. Just order the correct ones for your application.

I, too, have had good success with Elring.

 

I use this for the valve cover ...

Amazon.com: Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker, 50 ml Tube , Red, Packaging may vary. : Automotive

Buy Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker, 50 ml Tube , Red, Packaging may vary.: Gasket - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

You can find it at O'Reilly's ...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/permatex-50ml-anaerobic-gasket-maker/per0/51813

Permatex 51813 .
Only at the half moons , what is shown in the Bentley manual ...

 

I think I used this last time. going to buy it aain

 

If you apply the permatex grey (or whatever you use) just right, you can make a Smiley face

like this.

 

man dems some bad teefuses....

 

Of course when all the parts come in we get freezing temps and my 101 yr garage can't take it but I finally organized space to pull it in and will be updating soon. Plan to do the VC first I want to get rid of that vacuum leak and hopefully start with small successes.

 

Just a quick update I've been through it with buying a new Valve Cover:

1. Found one at the junkyard that looked immaculate. After weeks of it home I found a chip in the spark plug hole. I don't want to go down that road so I ditched it.​

​

2. Bought a used one off a parts store on ebay. When I finally opened it there was no bubble wrap no wrap of any kind, they took cardboard and wrapped it using that as the box. Little to say many broken tabs and pieces of plastic every where. Got a refund​

​

3. Found on in Michigan, homestate, that the guy could get to me the next day. Ordered it and when he was looking at it to package it he found a crack and messaged me asking what I wanted to do 😑. Got a refund there as well.​

​

4. Waiting on the next one to come in but spent a little more, it's much cleaner and came off a lower mileage vehicle. If this doesn't work out I'm throwing my paycheck at a new aluminum one.​

​

So today I started removing the air intake to replace the CCV lines and two of the hard coolant lines that are leaking. Very easy job actually, found many brittle lines and even a CCV wrapped in electrical tape to look like a mummy, must have been Halloween.

One fuel injector did fall in the process, I'm going to look thoroughly again tomorrow morning but if that fails where would be the go to to pick up an injector on Sunday?

Mummified CCV

Crumbling winter hose outer

Intake Aside

 

Just a quick update I've been through it with buying a new Valve Cover:

1. Found one at the junkyard that looked immaculate. After weeks of it home I found a chip in the spark plug hole. I don't want to go down that road so I ditched it.​

​

2. Bought a used one off a parts store on ebay. When I finally opened it there was no bubble wrap no wrap of any kind, they took cardboard and wrapped it using that as the box. Little to say many broken tabs and pieces of plastic every where. Got a refund​

​

3. Found on in Michigan, homestate, that the guy could get to me the next day. Ordered it and when he was looking at it to package it he found a crack and messaged me asking what I wanted to do 😑. Got a refund there as well.​

​

4. Waiting on the next one to come in but spent a little more, it's much cleaner and came off a lower mileage vehicle. If this doesn't work out I'm throwing my paycheck at a new aluminum one.​

​

So today I started removing the air intake to replace the CCV lines and two of the hard coolant lines that are leaking. Very easy job actually, found many brittle lines and even a CCV wrapped in electrical tape to look like a mummy, must have been Halloween.

One fuel injector did fall in the process, I'm going to look thoroughly again tomorrow morning but if that fails where would be the go to to pick up an injector on Sunday?

Mummified CCV

View attachment 1136234
View attachment 1136232
View attachment 1136233



Crumbling winter hose outer

View attachment 1136235



Intake Aside

View attachment 1136236

That's quite a journey......

As a recommendation, stuff some rags or shop towels into those open intake ports to keep any stray "stuff" out of there.

You could even place tape over them if you don't want to use rags/towels.

On another note, you might want to check that insulated plastic line that runs from between cyls 5 and 6 on the intake manifold up to where it tees into that other line fitted between cyls 1 and 2.

It looks like those might be on the crumbly side and you don't want to miss any vacuum leak sources.

I must say I've not encountered a mummified CCV before. Yikes.

 

BTW, do you have the part number for that insulated plastic line - would you post it? Thanks.

 

Believe that to be the Crankcase Vent Return Pipe, until I'm proven wrong and wasted money

BMW part number: 11617504536​

I purchased the r0ck aut0 Rein: ABV0131​

 

I see that your CCV was the cold climate version - I take it the new one will also be a cold climate version part, too, yes?

I believe the part number for that is 11617533400 and it comes with a new foam jacket.

 

Yep cold climate replacements. I have all the pipes here, only had less than half a day to work so I completed my goal of getting the air intake free

 

Which cars came equipped with the M56 engine? Also have a 2002 530i with similar issues (among others). Other than possible warping sounds like an aluminum VC could eliminate some potential problems.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M56

Yes, vacuum leaks are a critical item especially higher mileage 530s. But each vehicle needs to be diagnosed to determine what is or has failed.

Do you have any fault codes that you have read? Because proper diagnosis prevents just throwing alot of money in parts at these cars in the hope that one might eventually fix them.

 

Thanks for the info. Seems like the M56 is fairly rare. Just received a Foxwell 710 scanner but haven't had very much time to familiarize myself w it. The smoke tester mentioned above is nla at amazon so I'll look elsewhere. It's too cold to do anything anyway currently 22F. Springs a'comin'. As far as throwing money and parts at a car, well why stop now? Sigh. And don't mean to hijack the thread. So I'll keep soldiering on in my '86 e28 535i 5-speed. Thanks again.

 

I believe your scanner has an OBD function that will bring back standard SAE fault codes and is more applicable to other cars in general, and then has a BMW specific function. Use the latter only on your BMW.

On smoke machines, Ancel is supposed to be good. You can try here for a start - Ancel Smoke Machine for sale | eBay

I think Amazon has those, too, so search for your needs accordingly.

 

Figure I owe you guys an update. The 6-8 inches of snow and freezing temps have not made me want to walk back and forth from the garage to the house every time I need something.

I got the air intake back on, followed 50sKid video, pretty straight forward.

HOWEVER... Now when I try to start it up it just clicks for a bit then when it's done clicking it spews fuel... I'm perplexed. I did use the old oil dipstick and o-ring, which seamed fine because I cannot for the life of me find the now one I bought. Pulled the under plastics and the fuel filter is dry no leaks.

I really don't know what is going on unless it is a swapped elec. harness which I have trouble believing and the old dipstick tube (which i could see being the case with the fuel)

Any thoughts at the roundtable?

EDIT: after posting I ran into this solution

I have a 530. You had it in the garage for a few days to a week? If so I had the same problem after replacing everything rubber on the engine. The oil has leaked down past the low tension rings while it was sitting, then when you go to start it it squirts fuel in there first which compounds the problem. It can't make enough compression to start. How to solve?

1. Make sure your battery is 100% charged. If you have a jump pack connect it. 2. Open your garage door! 3. Pull the fuel pump fuse. 4. Crank the car for about 30 seconds, wait a few then do that again. This puts oil back in the cylinders. 5. Put the fuel pump fuse back in. 6. Crank it until it starts. It will take way longer than you think it will, like two minutes, and it will be rough. Just keep cranking until starts. Be ready to be on the gas pedal to keep it running. It will spew gross oil smoke and unburned fuel so make sure you open the garage door. It will smooth out after a bit so take it for a good drive and all will be ok.

 

Now when I try to start it up it just clicks for a bit then when it's done clicking it spews fuel..

So it doesn't start (Crank no start) and spews fuel....from where?

Injectors?
fuel rail
fuel hose connection?
cylinders with spark plugs removed?

 

Higher up, no injectors or fuel rail but maybe where the fuel rail connects to the hose. It does it briefly after the clicking so I've been able to look under and see the area but when I get there with a flashlight don't see where it's coming from. I'm starting to think it may be the battery not being able to start it because I had foolishly left the negative unplugged this whole time I've been working one it, maybe 2-3 weeks

 

I'm thinking a loose connection at the fuel rail to hose could be that issue

 

just having the battery disconnected itself wont deplete the battery, but it appears something did. what you quoted in your post #99 i think can be disregarded, youre talking fuel "spewing", the quote you posted has to do with engine internals. have you gota way to test the battery voltage?

 

I am able to test the battery voltage. Will have to wait until I get home.
It spews for a short period of time. Thinking about it this morning could it be possible the the hose attaching to the fuel rail isn't properly connected. I know I clicked it in.

I'll start with the battery first however and I do have a jump box

 

Deleted

 

There are o’rings in those fuel line quick disconnects that do go bad or can be lost I suppose when disconnecting the fuel lines.
I don’t know what model or year you have cause you don’t have it listed.
I know on my 2000 528i there are 2 fuel lines, 1 supply and 1 return, I gotta look into replacing mine for safety sake.

 

I'll add it. 2002 530i
Interesting, I'll look at them further tonight, wish I inspected it better while it was disconnected and the intake was completely out

 

I’m not so sure that those fuel line quick disconnects are serviceable, I’m pretty sure that they have o’rings in them but I cannot find any info on that. Maybe you just did not get the fuel line connected all the way in.

 

Thanks a possibility I did use quite a bit a force a few time to triple check that it was clicked in, I'll add it to the check list though. Do you happen to know where that hose goes to? maybe thats the end of the hose giving me the issue

 

Back from the garage and just clicking when I turn the key again. Everything seems in place and connected properly. One thing i did notice is this hole here next to the electrical connector, not good enough with diagrams to know if it should be there, would anybody know?

Kind of zoomed out into the spot as you go

 

I'm a bit more concerned about that unplugged cable at the air distribution piece right at the number 3 runner. The one tucked under the vacuum hose.

What is the voltage reading on your battery?

 

Looks like an unplugged O2 sensor to me, I doubt it causes a no start but definitely not ideal.