Found out that my battery was only at 5v today so I'm charging it up and we'll see what tomorrow brings.
I took the air intake off again just to double check that I went over everything. All is well however I'm thinking the alternator could be what drained the battery while it had been sitting for three weeks as I waiting on proper parts. PO had quite a Power Steering leak, and it's still not the prettiest but the alternator interior is loaded with Power Steering fluid.

 

After charging the battery back up it started right up and idled smoother than I remember, battery is keeping it's charge. No leaks at all on the driveway after quite a few days now. I replaced the VC, VCG, and Spark Plugs since I was in there. It was driving beautifully but the next day or so an accessory belt shredded. So we're back to immovable in the driveway until I replace those belts. Very happy with the results though, feels like it's got it's spring back in it's step.

Going to have to find a good video on how to remove the shroud and fan to get the the belts.

 

the fan has to come off to get the shroud. the tools and procedure are both necessary. i bought a cheap one like this: 2PCs 32mm Fan Clutch Nut Wrench Clutch Holder Removal For BMW E34 E36 E39 E46 | eBay

50skid has a video on the procedure:

 

be sure to check the tensioners for freedom of travel,idler and tensioner pulleys that have a bunch of resistance (or a complete lack thereof) and free rotation of the alternator, water pump, ps pump, and visual alignment of all of the above. there is a special set of 2 tools needed (not real expensive, around $35, one is a stamped thin 42mm spanner ) to hold the wp pulley in place whilst removing the fan blade, keep in mind that the fan blade is left hand threaded. might give thought to replacing the wp and ps pulley with metal ones, as the original are plastic and subject to embrittlement.

 

Thanks! I have the 2 tools and have seen how to use the tensioner pulleys but wasn't sure about the idler, alternator, water pump and ps pump. Hopefully all is well

 

yes it can be done, but i myself wouldnt wanna....

 

hahaha there was about a 15% chance I tried it that way. My hands already look like I punch barbed wire and my skin hurts

 

I have preemptively before seeing this ordered the Idler and tension pulleys, coming Friday which is the warmest day of the week. I got the tools for the clutch fan bolt so I should be set 🤞

 

If you're going to re-use the tensioners, then as you compress them to the full range, see if they feel weak or give too easily.

And, compare the heights of one to the other when they are off the car.

 

Well more headway more headache. Unfortunately I'll be doing this little by little until it's light later here. But here is a gallery of what I found frayed belt, even a surprise cracked waterpump pulley. Luckily I have no real time limit here just disappointing to say the least.

edit photos Fun Belt and Pulleys

 

That cracked pulley may have been the cause of the belt shredding. Or vice versa. I know aluminum pulleys are available for the p/s pump. It appears that Uro makes one in aluminum for the water pump that is CNC machined. Check around at the usual suspects.

Yikes, it looks like it partially slid under the A/C belt too. I noticed some green coolant on the ground right below the crank pulley and possibly more. Was that from taking all this apart? While you are in there check your water pump to see if it may have started to seize and/or is leaking at the weep hole.

Maybe it's the angle of the picture, but something looks odd about the position of the A/C idler.

 

i have the spun aluminum pulleys by URO on my car for 9 years now, the only URO parts i allow, theyve been fine, since youre in there might give thought to changing the PS pulley as well.

 

Absolutely on both. The p/s pulley is one of the first things I have changed on my M62s. One also wears a metal w/pump pulley as does my N62, both changed when I did the belts. And, all of them are Uro - one of only a couple of their parts on any of my cars. I have had zero issues with them and they fit just as they should.

 

Well that was the easiest 4 week job I've done. Getting the shroud off was the most difficult part and waiting for the parts to come took the longest. CCV and Belt/Pulleys were a breeze.

Glad I did the tensioner between the A/C and the Crankshaft, it wasn't making a rubbing noise or had any lateral movement but it was spinning like the bearing was starting to wear out and when I shook it there was a slight noise.

The Idler pulley was a breeze it was in better shape than the other but feels nice to have a fresh one, even though it could have lasted a lot longer I'll keep it around as backup.

The 4 bolts on the water pump pulley were rusty getting them off was Cub Scout work, (no offense I was one).

Running so smooth and quite now

 

Well that was the easiest 4 week job I've done. Getting the shroud off was the most difficult part and waiting for the parts to come took the longest. CCV and Belt/Pulleys were a breeze.

Glad I did the tensioner between the A/C and the Crankshaft, it wasn't making a rubbing noise or had any lateral movement but it was spinning like the bearing was starting to wear out and when I shook it there was a slight noise.

The Idler pulley was a breeze it was in better shape than the other but feels nice to have a fresh one, even though it could have lasted a lot longer I'll keep it around as backup.

The 4 bolts on the water pump pulley were rusty getting them off was Cub Scout work, (no offense I was one).

Running so smooth and quite now

Well done. That reminds me to get back to the car that has been sitting in my driveway just over four weeks.

 

alright alright we're back. I've been trying to properly bleed this coolant system for a bit now, I've watched 50sKid and Nathan's tutorials, just about all the same. Here's the problem when it comes time to turn the ignition to 2, temp to 90 Fahrenheit, no fan, I get no bubbles but the coolant in the reservoir just keeps rising and rising and rising, it does not stop.

I thought the coolant should be going down, not to the brim of the reservoir?

I got the coolant to where I wanted it, took it for quite a spin, watched on the foxwell and the coolant temp stayed between 98 and 107 the entire time.

I don't believe I have any leaks in the system I check underneath this thing everyday almost neurotically.

Any Ideas why the coolant would be building up so fast and continuing rapidly build right back up to the brim when I'm trying to bleed with ignition, temp, and no fan? Just had a thought that maybe air could be escaping when I'm driving it/running it but not when only ignition is on?? (But I am not a smart man jenny)

 

Er, that should be max temp, LOWest fan and NOT fan OFF If the fan is off, the water is not going to circulate via the aux pump or through the heater core.

What you have is a trapped air pocket that is then overheating and causing the coolant to boil inside the engine.

Fill the expansion tank maybe 3/4 full. Do you have a plastic bleed screw where the upper radiator hose meets the engine, on the thermostat housing? That should be loosened once you've turned the key to Pos 2 but not started the car. Wait until it becomes bubble free there, then just tighten the plastic screw. After that, loosen the screw on the top of the expansion tank so air in the top of the radiator can vent. Add coolant/water mix to keep the floating stick about even with the the top of the exp tank until the air bubbles stop. Then tighten that screw.

Now you can run the engine to full operating temperature and shouldn't have any issues. If it does want to kick water out, just cap the exp tank, turn the car off and let it cool and try again.

 

There is a vertical slot built into the plastic coolant bleeder screws, that slot is there for bleeding purposes. You do not have to open the bleeder screw that much to bleed the system. I think 1/2-3/4 turn is usually okay, you'll figure it out. Just get it wrapped well with a rag and cover the belts if you wish.

 

Both sides set at the highest heat setting, driver side and passenger side. You should see water flowing into your expansion tank at approximately 2:00 o'clock or so, it should not be backing up. You want to do this procedure stone cold. You don't need to start the engine for any reason to bleed your car. Done this many times on my M52TUB2.8.

 

I don't think I ever wrapped this up by we're cruising now. I just had A LOT of air in the coolant lines from replacing one hard line and removing another.

The AUX pump wasn't strong enough. I'd end up with a dead battery, and no bubbles or air removed. So I would run the engine for bits at a time (temp all the way up, fan all the way down) while keeping an eye on the coolant it would go up and down then a large air bubble would surface and escape the reservoir I may possibly have video of it if you're interested. This was really the only way air was even surfacing, I think I just had too much in there. But we're air free and the level returns after long drives. I've got hot heat, cold ac and am happy.

With the foxwell I was monitoring for a long time the Coolant temp going into the radiator, Coolant temp coming out, and the engine oil temp and all were in the perfect zone.

Now I just need to find out where an air leak is coming from (probably VC) if I can get off my a## and run a smoke test.