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Seek to understand,^Value
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bluebee said:
Total $220 to $235 for the following 7 to 8 items:

  1. Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
  2. Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
  3. Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
  4. Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
  5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
  6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
  7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
  8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)
  • CCV repair kit, 11 61 7 534 237 = $91
    • Pressure regulating vent valve (CCV), 11 61 7 533 400
    • Connecting line, 13 61 7 533 399
    • Vent hose, 12 61 7 533 398
Interesting.

I'm surprised the 'kit' isn't cheaper, and I'm shocked it doesn't seem to come with the "vent pipe" & "return pipe". Are you supposed to get them separately, or do people not change them?

The $93 CCV Repair kit (11617534237) only seems to contain three parts:

  1. Pressure regulating valve = YES
  2. Vent pipe = NO
  3. Connecting line = YES
  4. Vent hose = YES
  5. Return pipe = NO
  6. Dipstick guide tube = NO
  7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring = NO
  8. Vacuum hose black = Not needed for the M54
Nominal prices for just the kit parts are:

  • $66 Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version)
  • $34 Connecting line (cold weather version)
  • $15 Vent hose (cold weather version?)
  • TOTAL NOMINAL = ~$115
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85
Being an ex program manager, I popped this into the spreadsheet, and, re-ordering a bit to doublecheck against realoem, your list becomes:

  1. 11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
    • Same as Realoem: Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
  2. 11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85
    • Same as Realoem: Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
  3. 11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
    • Same as Realoem: Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
  4. 11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
    • Same as Realoem: Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
  5. 11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
    • Same as Realoem: Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
  6. No dipstick guide tube:
    • Realoem: Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
  7. 11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
    • Same as Realoem: Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
  8. No vacuum hose black
    • Realoem: Vacuum hose black (3.5x1.8mm, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)
OK. Looking at the spreadsheet, I see your prices were almost exactly what I found in the Realoem nominal tables; and your part numbers were the same.

The 'only' things you didn't get were:
• Dipstick guide tube, 11437531258 = $41
• Vacuum hose black, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15

Your engine probably doesn't need the vacuum hose so let's forget that.
But what is the decision-making process about the dipstick guide tube?

I guess, if you replace the CCV system with the cold-weather parts (which you did), and, if you clean out the 'gunk' from the dipstick guide tube Y arm, then (I guess) you don't need the redesigned dipstick guide tube.

Was that your thinking about the dipstick guide tube?

BTW, I see EAC Tuning has the same CCV cold-weather kit that rdl purchased from BMW Parts Source:
Part# : 11 61 7 534 237 $109.95
Vent Valve Assembly, Crankcase (Cold Climate Version) Includes:
(1) Insulated Vent Valve
(2) Insulated Hoses
 

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Resuscitating Touring
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cold-version or non-cold-version

You won't need the cold weather version in the Bahamas! :roundel:
Fudman, but his non-cold-weather version is cogged again. I'm in california, and i need to do this CCV replacement also. since they are the same price, is the cold-weather version less likely to clog again?
In mild weather places, is the cold-weather version still better than the non-cold-weather version?

thanks for the great DIY Fudman, this make E39 ownership so much more manageable!
 

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I just got this done thanks to the various DIYs here and elsewhere.

One problem.. I found a mystery o-ring under my car while everything was apart.



Its dimensions are 12mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter, 2mm thick. It's not the dipstick o-ring because that is about the same diameter as the nickel. I looked through some realoem diagrams which didn't help. It was clean and dry when I found it, so it was either in a non-dirty location or it fell off the new CCV.
+1 Just replaced my CCV and also found one as well. I've got the old parts so I will look for a similar o-ring.
 

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Hi Gang - Could use a little bit of additional direction here. Just got the old car back from the stealership. Problem that occurred that send me there was I lost power assit to the brakes for a breif time (5 min or so) then popped check engine lights throwing peake codes indicating misfires in 3 cylinders. Cleared the codes, car ran fine again. I know that this was some kind of loss of vacuum to the power brake booster.

The report back indicated I need to replace the "Crankcase Vent Valve/Intake Gasket & Brake booster Line". Total price $2088.00!!!!! Plus tax!

Now I see that Fudman's details cover the CCV, which can affect vacuum, does anyone have any idea what intake gasket is being referred to (do the mean the complete intake manifold gasket?) and does anyone know where the brake booster line runs to after it leaves the booster?

Thanks.

Mike
2001 E39 M54 145K
 

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Mileage is anytime. it all depends on how many short trips (<5 miles) you do in cold weather with how many long trips (> 10 miles) in between. The cause of CCV failure is condensation of oil vapors in the CCV itself. See spydrz pix for details. Can happen anywhere but is worst in cold climates. As 16valvex, the design "fix" is cheesy and a stopgap measure at best. But it is better than the original design. The real solution is to avoid short trips in cold weather. Short trips cause the oil condensation, long trips burn it off. Symptoms of CCV failure or clogging are increased oil consumption, black smoke in exhaust (typically at startup), etc. Cracked CCV hoses can create all sorts of running and idling problems due to vacuum leaks. The worst case scenario is engine hydrolock but that is rare and is typically where it is REALLY cold.
What is engine hyrolock? nvm on that, I'll look it up. I read the CCV can get clogged too. Would that cause exhaust like smelling oil/smoke to come billowing into the car air vents? It happened today, but when I went to open hood and check, nothing. Not a drop to be seen, nor any smoke. While the smoke has not come back, I can smell that oil/gas smell in the car. Not really a burning oil smell, but sort of gas/oil. Car is running fine (relatively).

I did add oil, but I'm 99% certain it's not overfill. I'm leaving to this CCV issue-possibly. The previous owner replaced the VCG and when I did spark plugs, it was all good/clean. While I don't have a lot of history, I do remember him saying the vanos was done, something about cyclone new radiator, alternator (looks old to me),
 

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I'm contemplating the dipstick guide as well. I was going to just clean it, but since it's been redesigned, might be worthwhile, while there doing the CCV.

Has anyone used this complete winter kit? http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_61_7_533_400/ES1905414/ They have a kit without throttle body ring, ICV grommet, etc. for $122, but heard the throttle body good to replace. But I have not seen anyone recommend the ICV grommet. The boot is probably good since there could be a crack somewhere (i guess).

Bluebee, where did you find the dipstick guide for $41. The cheapest I've found it was $71 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_61_7_533_400/ES1905414/ES24241/ (BAVAUTO was almost $90). I'd rather clean it and save money, but if if others replace it while doing CCV, I'd probably do the same.

I'm not sure if the CCV is original or not, but some of the hoses say BMW and look a little worn. I can't tell about the CCV itself. Also, the CCV hoses are winter ones. Interesting that if it is the winter version, that it went bad.
 

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UPDATE: Went to install new boots tonight and noticed vent hose had some grimey dirt on it. I was WTH (said worse), and then noticed same on the power steering case. I figured maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't). All three were clean last month when I did oil change, so it's new. I'm not worried about the PS fluid, but i do NOT want to mess with that CCV again! OMG!. Royal PITA. I knew it too because when I got the full CCV winter kit (can't remember if EAC, BAV) there was one non-OEM part with the kit. I think the vent pipe was URO or something like that, but it was the only non-OEM part and from what i can tell, the only one to be failing. So bummed. I don't see any oil leakage below that section where it connects to the VC, but there is obviously some gasious oil escaping somehow. There is no smoke/odor, and it must be very slight/small. But I will have to tackle it before winter. Be VERY wary of the next DIY out there--OEM only on the CCV (IMHO).

Happen to anyone else? Based upon your experience, is it serious, or I'm ok for now?
 

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maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't).
I came here to find information for this thread:
- How can we clean out a clogged oil dipstick tube (connection to CCV)?

But ... regarding your question ...

I know there are two schools of thought on 'where' the PS fluid mists out ...

One is the vent hole ... but ... the other is the o-ring under the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir.

So, I must ask: When was that power-steering fluid reservoir cap o ring last replaced?

 

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Did mine today

Many thanks to Fudman and subsequent experts for the write-up.

Old one came out in bits.

Didn't disconnect the wiring to the junction box, just flexed the wires.

Replaced the dipstick tube with BMW's updated spec.

Attached the connecting line (#3 in the picture) before fitting the valve and wangled it through the intake manifold.

Total time 5 hrs.

Top tip? Petroleum jelly to get the boots and pipes back on.

My Bimmer just gave up smokin:thumbup:
 

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I came here to find information for this thread:
- How can we clean out a clogged oil dipstick tube (connection to CCV)?

But ... regarding your question ...

I know there are two schools of thought on 'where' the PS fluid mists out ...

One is the vent hole ... but ... the other is the o-ring under the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir.

So, I must ask: When was that power-steering fluid reservoir cap o ring last replaced?

Hi BlueBee,

Just noticed this now. I replaced the entire PS assembly (filter by ZF) at same time of CCV replacement).
 

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Hello guys I'm new to the forum and I have a major issue. I was rushing to work and didn't let my car warm up properly and like 2 minutes into my drive white smoke filled the highway smoking all cars behind me. When I got to the red light the car seized on me and now it won't start at all. It's a 2004 BMW 530i with 106,000 miles on it! Please help!!
 

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For various reasons, I had replaced my CCV system about 2 months ago (for second time now). No issues went well. Changes OFH gasket as well. I don't see any oil leaks but car is consuming about a quart per 1000 miles (about a year ago or more, it was a quart per 3,000). Anyway, the issue I'm pointing out today is that I was down 2 quarts today (out of 6.9). I noticed there was mayo on the dipstick by where you check it. Not a lot, but noticeable. I've never seen mayo before, even before/during the 1st CCV replacement. Now I have a 2nd CCV and I'm seeing it. I'm just wondering if it's because I was that low on oil AND we got our first big winter storm here in TX. It's been 80 one day, freezing the next. Would low oil (along with cold/hot weather) cause the mayo to show up so quickly? i.e. was none before a few months ago, and I cleaned out the dipstick during the CCV replacement (was clean already). and both were the winter CCV kits.

As a side note, not sure why I didn't get alerted to being 2 quarts low--I replaced the low oil level sensor on the pan a few months back too. But that's another issue.

Note: Both times I used the winter version.
 

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Going to check the vent hose this weekend for mayo, and check/clean the hose/dipstick. I don't get it though. replaced with winter version (BMW brand, not OEM/other). The first time I replaced the CCV system about 2 plus years ago, it was more proactive than anything. The 2nd time I replaced it was because when I replaced the CCV system a few years ago, the vent hose was garbage/leaking (URO). it was included with OEM branded kit from BAVAUTO.

Since a few years ago, I noticed oil consumption was up (no other symptoms/smoking/etc). So I installed my 2nd new winter kit around early January of this year. no leaking from vent pipe, no leaking anywhere. all good. Neither the original CCV, or ccv from a few years ago showed one inkling of mayo-anywhere for years. Yet, the January 2015 winter kit is already showing may--barely 2 months. Either I have a bad CCV, or a winter version is no guarantee that one won't get may (just better odds), or when I was down 2 qts oil recently, the increased vapors from that/whatever, I don't know, just thinking out loud, caused mayo to build. I do work only 5 miles away from work, it's been hot/cold here in TEXAS, and sometimes I start car to go mailbox and box (start/stop). Who knows. But I will check tomorrow and sadly, most likely will replace entire system again as I don't want to risk mayo built-up and causing major issues.

Question1. Does anyone know if an oil change helps the short- or long-term remedy of mayo and/or its build-up?
Question 2. With the warm weather is just weeks ago, do the ill effects of winter mayo/ccv issues "hide" until the cold comes back? i.e. buy time before changing the ccv.
 

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Thank eburnz!!! I'm going to look into this. I thought it was just me, going on a 4th CCV system (last two are winter versions), and was looking to install 4th winter kit. But will do some research on a PCV replacement. I am tired of this crazy CCV thing.
 
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