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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Paid a shop $295 (+$85 for parts) today to install 2 front and 1 rear differential bushing. I got Lemforder for the front and Meyle for the rear. After they're done installing it, I was really excited that I won't hear that dreadful noise again. I drove the car, slowing down on the red light and there it was, the noise popped again.

The thump/clunk noise coming out most of the time when I decelerate. From what I can hear it happens twice, slowing down to the 2nd gear and 1st gear. I can feel/hear the noise harder when the car come to a stop. Some times I can hear it when I accelerate fast from a stop.

I started noticing the noise after I change my suspension and installed UUC sway bar on the car (not sure if it was there before that). I checked the subframe, and it looks good. So I'm guessing either bad differential, bad RTAB or the shop didn't install the rear UUC swaybar properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Learning Daily
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check lower control arm bushings. push tire from the top wit ur feet while car is stationary n see if it has excessive movement.
 

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catso
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Paid a shop $295 (+$85 for parts) today to install 2 front and 1 rear differential bushing. I got Lemforder for the front and Meyle for the rear. After they're done installing it, I was really excited that I won't hear that dreadful noise again. I drove the car, slowing down on the red light and there it was, the noise popped again.

The thump/clunk noise coming out most of the time when I decelerate. From what I can hear it happens twice, slowing down to the 2nd gear and 1st gear. I can feel/hear the noise harder when the car come to a stop. Some times I can hear it when I accelerate fast from a stop.

I started noticing the noise after I change my suspension and installed UUC sway bar on the car (not sure if it was there before that). I checked the subframe, and it looks good. So I'm guessing either bad differential, bad RTAB or the shop didn't install the rear UUC swaybar properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Did you get new sway bar links? Are you sure they're attached properly?
 

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Sounds like control arm bushings. But I might be wrong. I had the same symptom and noticed my bushings were very bad.
 

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Paid a shop $295 (+$85 for parts) today to install 2 front and 1 rear differential bushing. I got Lemforder for the front and Meyle for the rear. After they're done installing it, I was really excited that I won't hear that dreadful noise again. I drove the car, slowing down on the red light and there it was, the noise popped again.

The thump/clunk noise coming out most of the time when I decelerate. From what I can hear it happens twice, slowing down to the 2nd gear and 1st gear. I can feel/hear the noise harder when the car come to a stop. Some times I can hear it when I accelerate fast from a stop.

I started noticing the noise after I change my suspension and installed UUC sway bar on the car (not sure if it was there before that). I checked the subframe, and it looks good. So I'm guessing either bad differential, bad RTAB or the shop didn't install the rear UUC swaybar properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Which side is the clunk coming from?

I'm going to assume rear passenger side since you did diff bushings!
If so, 1. make sure the coil spring on that side is properly seated - when in doubt, just re-orient it like the one on the left rear side.
2. RTAB's - especially if the car also swerves when braking and accelerating. Just replace with oem but reinforce with RE shims.
3. If you have an auto, there is an SIB out there to update the trans software - supposedly it either is shifting a little earlier or later than tolerated, hence the clunk. I saw this on e46f when I searching for other stuff.
4. the sway bar bushings could be suspect especially if you didn't get new ones but I doubt it.

Hope this helps..
 

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Paid a shop $295 (+$85 for parts) today to install 2 front and 1 rear differential bushing. I got Lemforder for the front and Meyle for the rear. After they're done installing it, I was really excited that I won't hear that dreadful noise again. I drove the car, slowing down on the red light and there it was, the noise popped again.

The thump/clunk noise coming out most of the time when I decelerate. From what I can hear it happens twice, slowing down to the 2nd gear and 1st gear. I can feel/hear the noise harder when the car come to a stop. Some times I can hear it when I accelerate fast from a stop.

I started noticing the noise after I change my suspension and installed UUC sway bar on the car (not sure if it was there before that). I checked the subframe, and it looks good. So I'm guessing either bad differential, bad RTAB or the shop didn't install the rear UUC swaybar properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
1999 323i's are the heavy hitter for subframe cracks..hope it is not structural...could be drive shaft u-joints doing that too...hopefully!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Which side is the clunk coming from?

I'm going to assume rear passenger side since you did diff bushings!
If so, 1. make sure the coil spring on that side is properly seated - when in doubt, just re-orient it like the one on the left rear side.
2. RTAB's - especially if the car also swerves when braking and accelerating. Just replace with oem but reinforce with RE shims.
3. If you have an auto, there is an SIB out there to update the trans software - supposedly it either is shifting a little earlier or later than tolerated, hence the clunk. I saw this on e46f when I searching for other stuff.
4. the sway bar bushings could be suspect especially if you didn't get new ones but I doubt it.

Hope this helps..
Seems like its coming from the rear center (hard to identify). I don't think the car serve when braking and accelerating. What is SIB? When I bought the UUC swaybar, it comes with new endlink and bushing.
 

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Check your sway bar links again. I changed mine and one of them came loose but I couldn't notice until I loosened one up. I hit the middle of the sway bar and there it was.
 

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What kind of shape is your giubo in ? If it`s worn excessively, the knocking noise it generates could travel along the driveshaft, giving the impression that it`s coming from farther back in the driveline.
 

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ROLL TIDE!
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What kind of shape is your giubo in ? If it`s worn excessively, the knocking noise it generates could travel along the driveshaft, giving the impression that it`s coming from farther back in the driveline.
+1. I'd check that and your driveshaft carrier bearing.
 

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What is the typical noise from a worn giubo and CSB? My giubo is clearly completely worn out as shown in the attached pic.

I have a clicking/tapping noise that will increase in rhythm with wheel speed. Sounds like a nail/screw in the tire. Ive checked for that, just in case. The sound is only audible at low road speeds in first and second gears. I assume it just gets drowned out at higher speeds due to tire noise (Michelin PSS with 1k miles).

Would a worn out giubo, such as the one in my pic, cause that sort of sound?

Thanks!
 

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What is the typical noise from a worn giubo and CSB? My giubo is clearly completely worn out as shown in the attached pic.

I have a clicking/tapping noise that will increase in rhythm with wheel speed. Sounds like a nail/screw in the tire. Ive checked for that, just in case. The sound is only audible at low road speeds in first and second gears. I assume it just gets drowned out at higher speeds due to tire noise (Michelin PSS with 1k miles).

Would a worn out giubo, such as the one in my pic, cause that sort of sound?

Thanks!
I'd say you're still well within acceptable wear limits.
 

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According to TIA BMW issue an upgrade to the output flange because of the clunk noise you are describing. The noise is due to movement on the flange when you accelerate and most notable from 1th to 2nd.

Also a worn gibo will cause this noise since it will allow the drive shaft to move "the clunk" and hit the differential, you'll notice that if you don't accelerate hard you wont hear the clunk.

 

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