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Discussion Starter #1
just got a gallon of coolent, watter wetter, 4 gallons of distilled water and a new thermostat.

my method is to change out the thermostat (anything i should know???? first time with the BMW), drain the petcock on the rad, refill with distilled, start car and run the heat on high, let come up to operating temp then repeat till the draining out of the petcock comes out clear. at this point i know the remaining fluid in there is distilled water. then use a slightly less than 50/50 mix of anti-freeze, add REDLINE WATER WETTER, and top off with distilled. I don't want to mess around with removing the freeze plugs from the engine, i know that speeds things up but i've heard terrible stories of stripping the threads and breaking it off (not to mention getting to it).

is the capacity 11.6 quarts? is there a quicker way to get it done without the endless drain, fill, drain, etc...??????:rolleyes:

thanks
 

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For one, I'd recommend using BMW coolant. BMW coolant is low-silicate, not silicate-free. It is nitrite-free and phosphate-free. I used about a gallon and a half with distilled water (50/50 mix) to fill up the E30.

Freeze plugs? I'm assuming you mean the drain plug that's located near the exhaust manifold. Yeah, they may be a pain to get to, but mine came off without braking. From the feel of it, I'm willing to be the previous owner never drained the block.

Check out http://www.bimmerdiy.com/e30 for more info on coolant and thermostat changes.

Dan
 

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Make sure you bleed all the air out. Could cause some serious problems. System is pressurized so you have to get it out or you'll have air pockets all over.
 

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Drain the block. You'll get quite a bit of coolant out that way, and it's not as hard to get to as everybody says. A mirror, an extension, maybe a u-joint socket, some penetrating oil, it's a piece of cake.
Properly dispose of the old stuff.
 

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Flush the system also, it is best to perform a coolant flush to remove deposits and make sure that there are no leaks when you are done. Also like it was stated, make sure you bleed the system or you will encounter bigger problems
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks guys for the advice,,,,,,,,is there another anti-freeze (prestone etc.) that has the same properties as the bmw coolent???
looking at the Dex-Cool (orange stuff), it seems similar but i've heard conflicting reports on it,,,,some say it's great, some say it will sludge up (there's a class-action suit against it right now!), and others say as long as you don't mix it with other coolents its fine.
i did a complete flush on my Q a year ago and used the Dex-Cool, no problems but flushed it all out and put the green stuff back (with water wetter) in today. didn't see any sludgey stuff when i drained it...............
anyway, since i have to replace my timing belt i'm gonna hold off a little on the flush till that is done (since i'll lose all of it anyway). just want to use the right stuff.
 

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BMWjunkie said:
thanks guys for the advice,,,,,,,,is there another anti-freeze (prestone etc.) that has the same properties as the bmw coolent???
looking at the Dex-Cool (orange stuff), it seems similar but i've heard conflicting reports on it,,,,some say it's great, some say it will sludge up (there's a class-action suit against it right now!), and others say as long as you don't mix it with other coolents its fine.
i did a complete flush on my Q a year ago and used the Dex-Cool, no problems but flushed it all out and put the green stuff back (with water wetter) in today. didn't see any sludgey stuff when i drained it...............
anyway, since i have to replace my timing belt i'm gonna hold off a little on the flush till that is done (since i'll lose all of it anyway). just want to use the right stuff.
DO NOT USE DEX-COOL ON THIS CAR!!!!! This system is designed for the old ethyl-glycol coolant. I have heard to use the BMW coolant for the mineral deposit reasons but, when my car was put pack together the dealer was closed so I just put 50/50 pre mix in and haven't had any probs. But I will flush the system this spring/summer and buy some BMW coolant when it gets warmer.
 

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ZEREX G-48 coolant. Silicate and phosphate free, friendly with aluminum, and BMW approved. The G-48 spec is what BMW uses for their own coolant so it's pretty much the same thing in a different bottle...
 

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bratmeister
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i don't think you get much benefit from the water wetter for street use. i used it in one of my e30s two years ago and it was tough getting anything out the heater when it was cold outside because the temp gauge wouldn't come out the blue area on the dial. i flushed it out two weeks later and refilled with BMW coolant. the cooler operating temp may also have some impact on how effective your emission controls are since everything was designed to work with the engine running in a certain temp range. of course up in PA you don't worry about stuff like when the car is 10+ years old ;^)

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i don't see how the water wetter will have any impact on your interior heat. thermostat maybe or a clog somewhere in the hoses or the heater core. your coolent will go up to operating temps as usual just keeps it down. a cool running engine (and trans!) is vital,,,especially on the street.
stop and go driving and summer heat can raise temps considerably in the cooling system.
race cars use only water (and many use the water wetter too) because of its better thermal abilities. street cars must use anti-freeze mixed with water but that raises the coolent temps.
water wetter is a valuable insurance if you want your bmw engine to run cooler,,,,which you do.:)
 

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bratmeister
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With or without the water wetter, the car won't overheat unless something else is wrong with the cooling system (closed t-stat, broken water pump, clogged radiator, or aux fan that doesn't work when it should). My car behaved about the same with the water wetter in the coolant as it did the time my t-stat got stuck in the open position. In both cases the car didn't warm up correctly, as indicated by the temp guage staying in the blue. I should note that I had to take my car in for emissions inspection with that bad t-stat and it failed. The tech noticed the temp guage reading and suspected the engine was running too cool. After I replaced the t-stat, it passed. I'm sure a lot of people do okay with water in their system and that's fine. In my case, I took it out because I was getting the same low reading I was getting with the broken t-stat and I didn't want to have to deal with that during a later inspection. I'm not trying to tell you not to use it. I only questioned why you thought you needed it given that the cooling system on the E30 is really good (IMHO) so long as everything is in good working order. After thinking about it some, I also reasoned that by not putting it in there, I don't have to worry about any odd chemical reactions that might occur between coolant and water wetter with long term use.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i understand what you're saying,,,,but you have to remember, for someone to join, read, and post comments on an online owners group you have to be fanatical and anal about your car, and every site i've been on has endorsed water wetter with no advertising from the product.
i belong to an infiniti site (NICO) and one of the members who writes posts that look like a rocket scientist was at the keyboard, recommends it (along with a govt. chemist who is also a member).
your faulty t-stat makes sense with the temps staying low.
not only is heat the number one killer of transmissions but will kill an engine to, so anything that keeps the engine running cooler is a benefit for it's long term.
keep the anti-freeze flushed and fresh, use quality anti-freeze, use distilled water, and a bottle of water wetter. all the experts agree, a somewhat rare, automotive additive that actually works as advertised!:thumbup:
 
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