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Discussion Starter #1
Back again with a new slightly disconcerting issue from my car. This time every now and then when I start the engine it does a loud clank or taps at least coming from the engine bay. It sounded like it was running on 5 for a few seconds or in some cases half a minute then the noise disappears and the idle went smoother. At first I thought it was the sparkplugs but having had those checked, replaced, and checked again made it seemed implausible. I loosely gestured that it was the injectors, but I don't know. I can't send it to my mech tomorrow since I have to visit the hospital and I'm planning on staying home for the next couple of days because of my bad health at the moment. Anyone know what it might be?
 

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Think he means five of the six cylinders. Also curious if you changed the oil recently, and if so what went in?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Real sorry for the late reply. Got too ill to do anything for the past days. That said, I remembered some Castrol being put into my car several months ago, but I don't know what type of Castrol it was. Also the oil service bar isn't technically lit up most of the time, so, should I be worried a lot then?
 

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Oil

Real sorry for the late reply. Got too ill to do anything for the past days. That said, I remembered some Castrol being put into my car several months ago, but I don't know what type of Castrol it was. Also the oil service bar isn't technically lit up most of the time, so, should I be worried a lot then?
Oil weight is very important on BMW motors. Most oil change places will use light / cheap oil that could cause the lifters to rattle, the clank at start up is still a concern though.
 

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The oil/service light bar is controlled by a running timer. In other words, it's akin to an hours in service timer. It has no idea if the oil is new, or not, so unless you're resetting it when the oil is changed, it's irrelevant. And in the case of these issues you have, it is plainly irrelevant really. As for the oil, knowing that Castrol went in is a good start, but what you need to know is what weight went in.

As for taking it somewhere to have it done, they should keep record of what they used, and I'd ask them exactly what they used. Also, does your oil dummy light go off pretty damn quickly when the engine is started, or does it lag on for even a second or two?
 

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+1

The oil/service light bar is controlled by a running timer. In other words, it's akin to an hours in service timer. It has no idea if the oil is new, or not, so unless you're resetting it when the oil is changed, it's irrelevant. And in the case of these issues you have, it is plainly irrelevant really. As for the oil, knowing that Castrol went in is a good start, but what you need to know is what weight went in.

As for taking it somewhere to have it done, they should keep record of what they used, and I'd ask them exactly what they used. Also, does your oil dummy light go off pretty damn quickly when the engine is started, or does it lag on for even a second or two?
+1, the TOAD or Troll is correct, the weight is most important when changing oil in these. Like I said, thin oil will make you lifters rattle, but like Mykk said, your vanos timing could cause the clank? If you had an oil change at any reputable place, they put a sticker on the windshield or inside the door and should give the weight and time due on the sticker. If not, you may have the receipt in the glove box.

Regardless of the "clank" if you have some 5 w10 oil or such in your motor, change it with the correct weight. The fact that you are still driving the car means it may not be the timing belt / chain. That is good, but you need to isolate the noise (top end / bottom ect) as any notable noise can become catastrophic, good luck with your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't think the M20 ever came with a Vanos. But anyway I felt better today, and so I quickly sent the car to the mech. He said that the oil level is quite low after doing only 40,000km since the last oil service, and he also mentions that the noise could be caused by the low presence of engine oil which causes the bits inside the engine to grind harder? I've never heard such a thing before but I accepted that. Other than that the low oil level could also mean yet another oil leak somewhere within the engine (having botched the first leak in just two to three months ago). But after the oil refill, the clanks are gone, or maybe it's frequency has decreased slightly...
 

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+1, the TOAD or Troll is correct, the weight is most important when changing oil in these. Like I said, thin oil will make you lifters rattle, but like Mykk said, your vanos timing could cause the clank? If you had an oil change at any reputable place, they put a sticker on the windshield or inside the door and should give the weight and time due on the sticker. If not, you may have the receipt in the glove box.

Regardless of the "clank" if you have some 5 w10 oil or such in your motor, change it with the correct weight. The fact that you are still driving the car means it may not be the timing belt / chain. That is good, but you need to isolate the noise (top end / bottom ect) as any notable noise can become catastrophic, good luck with your car.
I'm really tickled by your complete obsession over me and your expression of it virtually everywhere. Plus it is sooo cute that you still haven't grasped the message, but maybe you shouldn't spout about your affliction on every thread, even your own lil conceited ones... Just saying... Ya know #havesomeclass or at least #showsomeclass :thumbup:

We're supposed to be hear to help, not pretend to be an internet warrior. In any case, I can't help your being incorrect on a topic, and really have no need for my coattails to be riden. So how bout you cut us all some slack, and focus on topics. I'd bet, not a single person here is likely to appreciate your taking a steaming dump on their threads all day, and I'm pretty sure we've all got more that a handful of tools already.. Do you get the meaning of being a TROLL yet or are you still stuck on the noises of the cricket?

Anyhow, O.P. can we get a picture of the front top of the engine? I admit, hadn't even considered you might have VANOS, but the image should give us that info clearly. If it does have it, you're getting these noises, and the car seams to drive, run, and idle pretty smoothly, it could easily be noise from that stuffs. Maybe a 20 second video of this noise..? (Upload to YouTube, set to public, and just drop the link here)
 

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I don't think the M20 ever came with a Vanos. But anyway I felt better today, and so I quickly sent the car to the mech. He said that the oil level is quite low after doing only 40,000km since the last oil service, and he also mentions that the noise could be caused by the low presence of engine oil which causes the bits inside the engine to grind harder? I've never heard such a thing before but I accepted that. Other than that the low oil level could also mean yet another oil leak somewhere within the engine (having botched the first leak in just two to three months ago). But after the oil refill, the clanks are gone, or maybe it's frequency has decreased slightly...
Well if oil took care of it, that's a pretty inexpensive fix, so that's good.But are you saying it still "clanks?"
 

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40,000km

I don't think the M20 ever came with a Vanos. But anyway I felt better today, and so I quickly sent the car to the mech. He said that the oil level is quite low after doing only 40,000km since the last oil service, and he also mentions that the noise could be caused by the low presence of engine oil which causes the bits inside the engine to grind harder? I've never heard such a thing before but I accepted that. Other than that the low oil level could also mean yet another oil leak somewhere within the engine (having botched the first leak in just two to three months ago). But after the oil refill, the clanks are gone, or maybe it's frequency has decreased slightly...
40,000km or about 25,000 miles between oil changes isn't "only" in my book, specially if you had light weight oil in there. If it is not leaking, but just burning, you can slow that to an almost stop with Restore oil treatment, there is a post on it on here, it works, good luck with you car :)
 

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M20 has no vanos.
40,000km between oil changes is 3× over when it should be changed (mine asks every 12,000km)
You should get a low engine oil written warning on the dash when turning the car on or off, not while driving.
DON'T put additives into your engine, but if you do I have some magic beans you may be interested in.
 

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Restore

M20 has no vanos.
40,000km between oil changes is 3× over when it should be changed (mine asks every 12,000km)
You should get a low engine oil written warning on the dash when turning the car on or off, not while driving.
DON'T put additives into your engine, but if you do I have some magic beans you may be interested in.
So I am guessing you don't use motor oil? You must be one of the least informed people I have ever seen. Do you have ANY idea how many "ADDITIVES" ALL the oil Co's. put in your motor oil? Clearly, you don't. So you found some cans of motor oil without any additives in your garage. That would have to be 30w lawnmower oil, how does that work in you Magic Bean Stock motor. You Einstein's kill me, you are all experts on things you know nothing about and have never even researched or tested for your selves. Oh, and I guess you also use trans fluid and gas that has no additives. Please, enlighten us with the brands so we can ruin or motors by leaving out those additives you don't use :p
 

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Never heard any one call motor oil a motor additive, that term isn't even used on the container it comes in.
How often do you change your motor additive? But if it makes you feel smarter, go for it.
Stick to the topic & stop nit picking. Don't you have anything better to do like put air vents over your E box & fuse box.:rolleyes:
 

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Idiot

Never heard any one call motor oil a motor additive, that term isn't even used on the container it comes in.
How often do you change your motor additive? But if it makes you feel smarter, go for it.
Stick to the topic & stop nit picking. Don't you have anything better to do like put air vents over your E box & fuse box.:rolleyes:
The difference between an Idiot and an ignorant man is the latter can learn something, you may be the 1st kind. I could spend much time trying to explain oil additives, like zink and friction additives and on and on, but clearly, you still wouldn't understand, nor would an idiot, not you fault, probably a birth defect.

To the intelligent, and even the ignorant who want to learn. ALL MAJOR Oil Co's Like Mobil ! and ALL the others are now offering an OIL called HIGH MILLAGE OIL. The idiot's must think it is the same oil without any different ADDITIVES other then their regular oil, that is why they are idiots.

Well, these oil Co's are now adding compression building additives to the high millage oils, some are the exact same additives you will find in the Restore oil treatment That I recommend. So, you have Bean Stock Idiots who claim they know more then ALL the major oil manufacturing Co's, or you have the truth :p:rofl:;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't you have anything better to do like put air vents over your E box & fuse box.:rolleyes:
LOL.

Anyway, the clanks are still there but they've gotten rather short-lived and quieter, like 2 to 5 seconds, it could be hard trying to take a video of it. And also it has become slightly less frequent, like sometimes it's there when you start the car, and when you start the car the second time it's gone.

Though I went back to the specialist which I sent the car to before and asked them about what thing went into my engine, and they told me it was Castrol 5w-40? To be honest I don't know much about engine oils but they said it was the type of oil they usually used for my type of car/engine.

They also mentioned that this issue could be injector-related, or something related to the rod bearing, which is a bit of a worry. If the engine keeps making a lot of mishaps like these I might as well just overhaul it...
 

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Your oil weight is 10w-40 or 15w-50 synthetic. And the change interval for full synthetic is 7500 miles. 3500 for regular oil. Amsoil, Lubrimoly, Red Line, Motul, Castrol(sometimes) are all good syth options. Invest in a mityvac 7201 or the like pump. You can change the oil yourself in 10 minutes without getting even your hands dirty. And you'll save a fkton of money. It'll pay for itself in 2 oil changes, and it'll ensure your engine doesn't grind to a halt because you neglect it due to time or money or experience problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I just discovered that the car has a broken pan gasket, so getting that botched soon. As for the clanks it is apparently caused by the old oil (got helped by a kind Bimmerfest user on that) and so I'm getting the engine flushed as soon as possible.
 
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