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Bajan Z
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Hoping that my problems are not too different from US model cars....I have a 2007 530d RHD that is working wonderfully well. Lately though, I will get in at random times etc. and the clock will need to be reset. It can happen overnight, or just whenever you stop somewhere and go back into the car later...there is no additional warning like I have read in other threads such as "additional battery discharge". Also, my car is about 100 ft away from where I keep the key so I don't think that is an issue....I have never replaced the battery on this car so maybe something to do with an old battery, but it seems to work fine never had an issue. I did have an alternator replaced a year ago due to many problems with i drive readings.....that seemed to sort that out so scratching my head a little.
Any thoughts?
 

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Yes, most of the times I have read about this it has been due to a battery being on its way out. If you have a 2007 and it's on the original battery then, ya, it's time to replace it (even if it doesn't solve the issue, it's due).
 

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Had the same exact issue with my 05 530, my 08 535, and my current car 08 550i. Its your battery. Dealer kept telling me battery was fine but after my third trip there for the same problem they gave in and replaced battery. Works perfect ever since. They did the same for my 08 535 and that solved the problem as well
 

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Yes - the battery! This car has a battery sensor that will shut down computer modules to conserve power which is pretty smart. What isn't so smart is that it should just light up a warning saying "REPLACE THE BATTERY!"

The clock losing time is just one of the early warnings. Mine was at the point where I couldn't work the car for more than 15 mins or so with doors opening/closing, ignition on/off, etc without losing time. I finally replaced the battery and it seems like most everything works better.
 

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I too had problems with the clock losing its settings on my '08 5 series wagon at about 12K miles. The dealer replaced the battery under warranty over a year ago, and that solved the problem. Now I've got 39K on the odometer with no problems since then. But, looking at a 5 series wiring diagram makes me nervous for the long term (count those fuses!).
I find it interesting that my '07 3 series has about 50K on it now and has never had any issues at all.
 

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Just wait it out

06 530xi wagon... I read the threads and concluded it was the battery too, got the battery discharge warning twice as well. Dealer did a load test on the battery, checked out fine. I must have set the time at least 30 times and then just like that, fixed itself, been about 2 months now and no reset. My keys hang less than 10 ft from the car. I thought the drop in ambient temp had something to do with it but even when it got randomly warm, almost summer like, it still kept the time. I am sure it's linked with the battery but there are chances it may stop resetting. You just have to show idrive whos boss...lol
 

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BMW hates handing out batteries. I wish you the best of luck. They told me to bend over and lube up after a verbal promise from my CPO salesman.
 

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I recently with through the tug of war with BWM to have my battery replaced under warranty. One of the symptoms of a bad battery as noted above and confirmed by the SA is the clock resetting to --:--.

See this thread for additional details.

When I picked up the car, the SA said "we all knew it needed a battery but we have to prove to BWMNA that it needs one". Logic apparently does not have any say in this process. It cost them to tow the car to the dealership in addition to a loaner let alone the customer frustration factor.

Good luck!!
 

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Hi guys! I have a 2006 M6 with over 113,000 miles on it. I've been experiencing that clock reset issue too, along with the battery discharge warning and the that little warning triangle symbol.
I replaced the battery in the key fob, thinking that was the issue, but nope...still happens after every restart of the car. Plus, the key-less entry works intermittently.
So, what do you think....is it time for a new battery, or idrive issue?
 

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Removed battery to test it

Thank you everyone for your messages above.

In my scenario all I did was I removed the battery to take it to my local parts store AutoZone, and they did a test on it and he came back at 65% good.

I reinstalled the battery just put everything back the way it was I reset the time everything seemed OK when out for a few hours and every time we would get back into the car I would have to reset the time again and again. I mean I think 65% and it's still a good battery is it not?

On the negative terminal it says 05/12. So the battery is barely 4 years old.

But I guess my primary reason why I removed the battery in the first place, it was due to its seemed that even if I just have the car on for about 10 minutes or 15 not turned on by just playing with the iDrive and configuring things, The car would seem like it was not starting. And my wife recently needed a jump start, but she said she left the lights on I'm not sure about that.

if I just removed the battery and I got it tested and I put the same battery back in do I need to do anything with I drive in order to stop resetting the time?
 

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Thank you everyone for your messages above.

In my scenario all I did was I removed the battery to take it to my local parts store AutoZone, and they did a test on it and he came back at 65% good.

I reinstalled the battery just put everything back the way it was I reset the time everything seemed OK when out for a few hours and every time we would get back into the car I would have to reset the time again and again. I mean I think 65% and it's still a good battery is it not?

On the negative terminal it says 05/12. So the battery is barely 4 years old.

But I guess my primary reason why I removed the battery in the first place, it was due to its seemed that even if I just have the car on for about 10 minutes or 15 not turned on by just playing with the iDrive and configuring things, The car would seem like it was not starting. And my wife recently needed a jump start, but she said she left the lights on I'm not sure about that.

if I just removed the battery and I got it tested and I put the same battery back in do I need to do anything with I drive in order to stop resetting the time?
What's been said. You might want to put a battery tender/conditioner on it at night, and see if that recovers your battery. But if it's 4 years old, consider getting a new battery, drop it in. Don't need BMW: $150 at Autozone is fine. The one at Walmart does fine too. Match FLA to FLA; or AGM to AGM, if that's what's in there.

These are computers with wheels. Between 32-60 programmed control units in each one. Take a look at the doc, attached, to see how complex it the power system is. Been a lot of history with "good" battery tested from Autozone etc being weak in our Bimmers.
 

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@banglenot Thank you for the information. Much appreciated.

I have a question, I'm thinking of buying an battery tender and put it on the vehicle during the night. do you think that would help, specially during the cold days here in Michigan, or should I just buy the battery?
I'm debating, there is a BMW one on Amazon for $60, but if that doesn't work don't want to purchase it and then have to purchase the battery too :)

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-advanced-...1455908481&sr=8-1&keywords=bmw+battery+tender
 

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You're suppose to charge a battery before load testing it....

If your battery is near or past 5 years old, I would just replace it.

If you drive short distances often, yes a battery tender will help keep the battery health.

As a lead acid battery sits discharged, the plates inside will sulfate, decreasing battery performance. Cold temperatures also decrease battery performance. This is true for any type of battery.

More expensive battery tenders/chargers can desulfate a discharged battery but only to a certain extent. The damage cannot ever be fully reversed.

Driving short distances does not allow the battery to top off correctly.
 

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Similar Clock reset symptoms with test results.

I have a 2008 528i. Car was built 2/08 and sold in 7/08. Car's entire life has been spent in Phoenix, AZ. I bought it CPO in Sept of 2011. In late Nov of 2011 I started to have clock reset symptoms. Took it to dealer (Scottsdale BMW in AZ). They tested car and replaced the battery. It was still under original factory warranty at that time. They replaced the original factory battery with a BMW brand Exide AGM battery. The service order said " Programmed and encoded complete vehicle using ISTAP V2.44.1 including CAS to retrofit the 90AH AGM battery and cleared all codes." The stamp on the battery terminal says 36/11 which I gather means it was manufactured in Sept of 2011. The battery was installed in my car 12/13/11. Everything was fine after that.

I should say that the car doesn't get driven much. In almost 4 1/2 years of my owning it, I have put on just 11,000 miles. Total mileage on the car is 54,000. 90% of those miles are short trips, 3-7 miles each way in city driving.. Ten to fifteen minute trips. Often the car can sit 4 or 5 days between these short trip drives.

Well it's a bit over 4 years later and I had a few clock reset incidents in the past month. So I thought I'd have the battery/charging system checked out. I took the car to four different auto parts stores with the following results:

1) Auto Zone: Hooked up tester to terminals under the hood - Girl who tested said I needed a new battery.

2) Pep Boys: Hooked up tester to battery directly. They said the battery read low charge. Nothing else showed as wrong.

3) O'Reilly Auto: Hooked up tester to battery directly. Said battery showed low charge. They suggested I drive the car more, or possibly I might have a parasitic draw.

4) Different Auto Zone: Hooked tester to battery terminals and also said just a low charge.

I took the car out onto the freeway for a 20 minute drive.

Next day I plugged in a cigarette lighter digital voltage gauge. Before starting engine it read 12.0v. After starting the engine and just idling for a minute it showed 14.1 - 14.3v. I drove around the neighborhood at low speed (about 25 -30 mph) and the voltage reading remained at 14.1 -14.2 reading.

I also have the Carly for BMW app.
When I run the diagnostics it shows three codes:

1) Instrument cluster: Terminal shutdown Code 00A559
2) Light: sorry unknown fault Code 009CC5
3) Car Communication Computer CCC: Message failure Code 00E18F

Sorry to be so long winded, but I thought I'd give as much information as I have.

It's been three days now and the clock has not needed to be reset. It is keeping the correct time.

So my questions are: Should I just replace the battery with a new one right now?
Or should I just try to drive the car more at higher speeds for longer time frames and keep an eye out for the clock reset symptoms?
Or, should I buy a battery tender for the car while it's in the garage?

If I don't buy a new battery, am I just living on borrowed time with just more driving or the battery tender solution? In other words would these solutions keep the battery functioning for now, but I'd still probably need to replace in in nine months to a year anyway.

Like most people my main concern is reliability. I don't relish getting stranded somewhere or not having my car start when I need it.

Am I approaching all this correctly, or should I just take the car to my independent BMW mechanic for analysis/diagnosis? If it is just the battery, I'd rather not have to pay him for something I can replace myself. I'm sure I'd spend less doing it myself. I can get a Bosch AGM battery from Pep Boys with a full 4 year non-prorated warranty for $172.00 including tax. And I can register the battery myself using the Carly app.

Thanks for any input and help guys.
 

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Get a new battery. My 2006 is on it's third battery. Wife's 2009 X5 is on it's second battery. I bought my last two batteries at Advance Auto. Pep Boys is fine. Look for an online coupon (and pickup in store) from Pep Boys and you can probably shave off a few dollars. If you have AGM now, get an AGM and register it with Carly.
 

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+1 twh comment. Plan B is to put a good battery tender on it at night, particularly if it's low usage.

These things draw a small amount of current all the time. Our experience is "low usage" cars slowly drain the battery. Tenders solve for many. Other simply pop in a new battery every 4 years or so and consider it part of maintenance. Replace like for like, and pretty much any battery is fine -- lots use the Walmart unit. BMW battery is absolutely an overpriced waste of money.

Yes, use Carly to re-register, since it's a cheap solution.

Read the power system doc in a previous message.
 

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Thanks for your help guys.

I bought this new battery from Advance Auto Parts two days ago:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15000|L3*15597

Bought online for in store pickup using one of their promotion codes that took $50.00 off the price and used a cashback referral site for an additional 10% off the discounted price. Wound up paying $129.67 total. Carly registration was easy too.

All is working perfectly. :)
 
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