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Discussion Starter #1
Ive always wanted a BMW and before I float off to the white light, Im going to buy a used 750. Looks like 2007 or 2008 will fit budget.

Are there common problems I should be aware of and what should I look for when inspecting a used 750i or Li?

Ive tested a 2008 with 45K miles Li from used lot dealer but the left windows didnt work and I didnt get a positive vibe from the dealer so I was scared away from it.

Im going to try next a 2007 750i with 72k miles private sale, a lot less money then above. Are here particular things I can look for and while test driving to help understand if I should walk away?

Any tips appreciated.

thanks again!
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Ive always wanted a BMW and before I float off to the white light, Im going to buy a used 750. Looks like 2007 or 2008 will fit budget.

Are there common problems I should be aware of and what should I look for when inspecting a used 750i or Li?

Ive tested a 2008 with 45K miles Li from used lot dealer but the left windows didnt work and I didnt get a positive vibe from the dealer so I was scared away from it.

Im going to try next a 2007 750i with 72k miles private sale, a lot less money then above. Are here particular things I can look for and while test driving to help understand if I should walk away?

Any tips appreciated.

thanks again!
.
check all the electronics, make sure everything works, if urs is going to be equipped with L7 (logic 7 sound system) make sure that u take good quality CD go to the multimedia options put all the settings to max and turn the volume up. just listen how it sounds. should be nice and clear sound from all the speakers and subs located under the front seats (L7 amps is a common problem with e65/66)
its best if u can get the warranty with the car there is many things that can go wrong as the car is a pretty much computer on wheels. and if u dont buy the warranty it can make ur pockets empty really fast. some guys dont have problems some do. better be safe then sorry. check as much as u can on mechanical part of the car. leaks, control arm bushings, brakes, suspension/ etc. more u check safer u will be. if ur buying from bmw dealer they do their inspection its not bad in most cases. also take it for a drive around residential areas and on the highway. make sure car drives with comfort and there is no shake to the steering wheel. specially when going over 50-80mph. and over uneven surface. there is a lot u should know bout the car i recommend to use search and read the forum. to tell u everything is almost impossible. we have a lot of threads when ppl are asking what to look for when buying new car. this forum has pages of information and we have guys who know a lot and everyone is ready to help with what they can. after all its a nice car that makes u happy everyday no mater on the money u spent its all worth it. i love mine to death.
well good luck with ur buy and welcome to the forum. :roundel::roundel::roundel::beerchug::beerchug::beerchug:
 

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New 750 Li Owner Experiences

I just bought a 2007 750Li sight unseen over the internet for about $31K with 35K miles a month ago. This is my 2nd 7 series to own.Have a certified mechanic check the car completely and give you a written report. That costs aprox $200 and is a cheap price to pay for a tad of "peace of mind". The first thing to check is for software updates. The dealer in Nashville charged me $165. for a diagnosis and in my particular case mine had already been updated. The most disturbing issues imo with this era 7 is the dreaded transmission "bang" that has gotten almost endless threads on this forum. CCCP mentioned many more issues as well. I also had a failure in my Multi CD player. Dealer wanted approximately $1200. to replace. They don't repair them.Being a typical "anal" BMW owner that chaps my ass to have ANYTHING wrong with my new "Baby". The bottom line is that a used 750 will cost you about the same as a new American full size car and there is no comparison in the two. As Grandaddy said; "You get what you pay for". Simply budget for additional and ongoing out of pocket expenses for your new used 7 and enjoy the ride. It's a wonderful experience but in no way is it a economy car. Please keep in mind that the anticipation phase you are currently in is the most fun. I studied this great forum for weeks before I pulled the trigger although caution, being a daily reader of this forum tends to make you a 7 hypochondriac lol. Good Luck!
 

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I got a CPO and here is my thread in that-not impressed with the CPO process or the warranty so far-

Check for transmission and coolant leaks. CHECK REAR SUBFRAME BUSHINGS-THEY ARE NOT COVERED BY THE CPO- Here is my thread on that.

I have not been too hapy with my 08 CPO with only 43K (now 50K). I have experienced 3 loaner 5 series cars in the last 5 months. Many here have been pleased but most will tell you that these cars can have pricey problems.

Idrive, radio, L7 amp, CD changer, subframe bushings, and many other things are not covered by the CPO.

Gluck.
 

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2008 is the last model year of e65/66. most problems shall have been eliminated.
i got a dec 2008 750Li this jan with 38k miles on it. pretty cool.
got some engine stall problem in april (see my seperate tread) and now ok.
wondering to get extended warranty around nov - talking to my houstonian 7'er fellows and will see how they will advice me.
in general, a nice car to drive. be prepared to burn a big hole on your pocket.
imo, go for low mileage - no much delta $, cpo does not matter
good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
insightful inputs.......thank you. If allowed the time I would be able to check out those items you mention., except would not know how to check rear subframe bushings.

I called Carchex about extended warranty and for $3.6K I can get 3 year repair even on 2007 750 with 72K miles on it. $100 deduct, and while there are several flavors, the high end seems very comprehensive in what they will cover. Sounds like I should include that in my budget from what Im hearing from yourselves.
 

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good input. I had to Google Guibo. I thought at first it was a derogatory term for non BMW owners:)
 

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to the Op get the lowest miles you can with the longest warrty, thats the best advice.
To other posters asking about buying 02 745's there is no good advice.
 

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to the Op get the lowest miles you can with the longest warrty, thats the best advice.
To other posters asking about buying 02 745's there is no good advice.
+1,000 LOW MILES AND LONG WARRANTY. I forgot that I had a sunroof seal replaced too.

For the rear subframe bushing it's an easy check: Lay down with your head at the rear of the rear tire. There is a "cannister looking" device with a hex nut at the bottom as you look just to the rear inside of the wheel. This cannister has a fairly rhin rubber donut that you can wiggle the edges of with your finger- my unit has obvious rot and flex as I push the edge up and down.


Click for a larger image
 

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+1,000 LOW MILES AND LONG WARRANTY. I forgot that I had a sunroof seal replaced too.

For the rear subframe bushing it's an easy check: Lay down with your head at the rear of the rear tire. There is a "cannister looking" device with a hex nut at the bottom as you look just to the rear inside of the wheel. This cannister has a fairly rhin rubber donut that you can wiggle the edges of with your finger- my unit has obvious rot and flex as I push the edge up and down.


Click for a larger image
What would it cost to replace the bushings? I'm guess they're not covered under the CPO ?

How is your ride, handling effected with bad bushings? How long can yo go before you absolutely need to change them?
 

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Get a car with at least one year of new car warranty. This way you can have most things fixed, plus you will be buying with peace of mind. With that said, at least 2009 or newer. If you wait 2-3 months you can find a decent one for 45-47K
 

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Get a car with at least one year of new car warranty. This way you can have most things fixed, plus you will be buying with peace of mind. With that said, at least 2009 or newer. If you wait 2-3 months you can find a decent one for 45-47K
BIG price difference between prices for an 08 and 09!
 

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What would it cost to replace the bushings? I'm guess they're not covered under the CPO ?
That remains to be seen. Dealer wants $1850+. Indy evaluation to be done next week.

How is your ride, handling effected with bad bushings? How long can yo go before you absolutely need to change them?
Rather poor ride quality. Mine has progressively worsened over the last 2 months Here is a lthread I started with all the details. My very first post in the thread has a link detailing the symptoms.

Of note, this may not be a common problem as it seems that I am the only fool here with this issue so don't fret too much. You shuld check regardless. I just rechecked mine. The passenger side is much easier to inspect because of the exhaust on the driver's side. My driver's side seems normal by manual inspection but it is bad. The upper donut ring spins freely on both sides. I have no idea if that is normal. I know that the rot on the lower passenger side is A-B-normal.
 

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That remains to be seen. Dealer wants $1850+. Indy evaluation to be done next week.



Rather poor ride quality. Mine has progressively worsened over the last 2 months Here is a lthread I started with all the details. My very first post in the thread has a link detailing the symptoms.

Of note, this may not be a common problem as it seems that I am the only fool here with this issue so don't fret too much. You shuld check regardless. I just rechecked mine. The passenger side is much easier to inspect because of the exhaust on the driver's side. My driver's side seems normal by manual inspection but it is bad. The upper donut ring spins freely on both sides. I have no idea if that is normal. I know that the rot on the lower passenger side is A-B-normal.
What is the reason of these going bad? Mine is 06 and they are fine. Yours is much newer. Ii it miles, weather, driving habits or random? Surely it is not age of the car.
 
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