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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
At last! Please find the completed guides attatched as promised. Hope you find them useful.

The JPG shows where to tap for remote turn on for the amplifier (missing from original guides). The connection is green / blue and is located behind the fusebox in the rear of the car. Ensure the connection is fused in line close to the fusebox at 500mA.

My fingers hurt! :typing:

**EDIT**

Further into this thread are instructions how to modify the fuel filler solenoid so it locks when you turn on the ignition. This is useful to stop it flapping around due to copious levels of bass!

Unfortunatley you will need to know how to solder and build a circuit to carry out the fuel filler door mod.
 

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I am now seriously considering replacing my OEM amp altogether; BimmerUKF10, did you check/verify the factory speaker's impedance (FL/FR, ML/MR, RL/RR, C) by any chance? Just curious what my options for amps and RMS inputs should be. I am thinking of using an adaptor with an optical input that will net full-range signals to the input channels on the amp, and also provide a full-range signal to my sub amp, which right now is a JL 1000/1V2. I am really excited about the options you guys have made available to us F10 owners; possibilities are now limitless!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hi rsten2000,

I think I'd need to fully research the optical idea before spending any money. It is certainly plausable the the optical from the front of the vehicle is in multichannel format and already 'treated' I.e. The crossovers could well be in the front end and not the amp. Also, I'm not convinced that replacing the OEM amp would give better performance without also replacing all of the speakers. The performance of the OEM amp is actually pretty good already. If you feel you need something more, then you need better speakers that will by their nature probably need more power. Replacing just the amp may end up destroying your speakers and probably won't sound much different. In fact it may sound worse. It is generally better to have a smaller amp and drive it hard than have a huge amp and hardly drive it, particularly in the mid range. Yes the speakers are all 4 Ohms, although I didn't test the parcel shelf or centre units. If I were you I'd stick to installing a sub and see what it's like first.
 

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No doubt, that will be my first "experiment"; I ordered an LC2i and will try that first, hoping that the bass enhancer on there can counteract the roll-off at the low end. If that suffices, nuff said, that would work. Always nice to have back-up options as well, thanks to you! I appreciate all your time responding to our questions and concerns, I hope you continue to get full credit for all your hard work! As Glock 32 said, I too have searched high and low from multiple sources to get info, and there was none to be found as of yet, so your initiative/motivation has proven to be groundbreaking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe worth considering then. Just be very cautious regarding the optical!
 

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Plastic Man
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here at shop. Using the LC2 and still getting distortion off the sub signal - any ideas on what we are doing wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Is the amp definately ok? Just there is no reason for this not to work! Do the guys have acces to an oscilloscope and signal generator (or as I use an iPhone with oscillator app)? If they do they will be able to trace the problem. Do the factory subs distort without the new amp connected?

They definately tapping the correct wires?
 

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Plastic Man
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The factory subs sound fine, the issue is the solid trunk with one sub, when we close the truck it ls like someone pulled the fuse on the sub, you barely feel the bass.The sub sounds great we even ran a box in the car vs in the trunk to compare. The issue is I have no ski hole - my trunk is solid. We are going to cut the ski hole out to get the air in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The factory subs sound fine, the issue is the solid trunk with one sub, when we close the truck it ls like someone pulled the fuse on the sub, you barely feel the bass.The sub sounds great we even ran a box in the car vs in the trunk to compare. The issue is I have no ski hole - my trunk is solid. We are going to cut the ski hole out to get the air in the car.
Wow! Sounds like a major job! My 10" cheapo sub sounds more than reasonable without removing the plug in the skihole, although I'll still be getting some better subs. Not familiar with the sub you have, but I think I'd try something else before cutting holes in the seats! :yikes:
 

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Plastic Man
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We are not cutting holes in the seats. I do not have a ski hole - mine is completely solid back, do you have a ski hole? If you have a ski hole then allows the air/bass to travel in the car. There is already a template behind the armrest where the ski hole is supposed to be if you have it. If you do not have any access to the rear trunk then the back is COMPLETELEY sealed
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have spit rear seats and if you pull the armrest down, there is a section that comes out. I tested my system with the seats up and to hole covered, however there is possibly more leakage because of the split seats. The only thing I was thinking was that if you have a slim design speaker in a slim enclosure, it probably can't move much air compared to a traditionL design. It is certInly the case that the F10 requires more bass to travel than previous cars I've owned. In your shoes I'd definately try a different sub just to make sure I was doing the right thing and making the right choice.
 

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Plastic Man
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That is the issue I have a SOLID piece of steel running across the back of my car, zero air gets to the rear, you having split fold is a complete difference. - The 13.1" JL slim moves almost as much air as two JL 10" W7"s - I think it is like the value is like 139 vs 152 cu/sq/inches or something like that. I want to see what Glock has, even in my Lexus the ski hole was the port to the rear.
 

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That is the issue I have a SOLID piece of steel running across the back of my car, zero air gets to the rear, you having split fold is a complete difference. - The 13.1" JL slim moves almost as much air as two JL 10" W7"s - I think it is like the value is like 139 vs 152 cu/sq/inches or something like that. I want to see what Glock has, even in my Lexus the ski hole was the port to the rear.
I have the split fold down with the ski bag (removed).

Probably is part of the isuues if you have a metal back to your seat.

I do think the 1000/1v2 along with the (2) 12" 3v3 enclosure helps alot though. However, there is a trade off with using shear power to penetrate the trunk as it penetrates everything else! Even if you have that kind of power I might at least do something about the metal back on the seats just so I did not have to blow off the fuel door or risk poping out a window in order to really hear and feel it.

I can feel bass inside my office building as if I am in the car (even at fairly low volume).

It vibrates the entire building, walls, ceiling, etc. inside my office building (e.g the bass penetrates our concrete walls so I would bet that bigger subs and maybe more power would do at least a little better job of penetrating your trunk/seat)...

I continue to have everything set to almost zero, zero gain with gain adjustment range set to high voltage and it just slams with the LC2i set at 1/4 gain (I might try lowering that in the future and increasing the amp gain a bit), but it slams thoughout and sounds very clean already with minimal tweaking.

I'll check with my multimeter what the voltage is out of the LC2i now that I understand I am panning for AC and not DC current, dooh :tsk:. No wonder why I couldn't detect any voltage on the factory sub out and just decided to forgoe any signal testing and hope for the best. Anyways it spec'd at 9.5v peak (assume with the gain on the LC2i all the way up) BTW, this is still pretty high for most amps that want to see less than 4v and maybe less than 2v so it should be turned way down to closer to 2v if you are not using something like the JL slash v2 with high range (2v to 8v) switchable input.

So I think the combination of the JL slash series amps and the LC2i pair perfectly for this situation. JL has 8v selectable input signal range, a bass eq which ALSO allows you to turn up the bass manually (with or without a remote) WITH AN ADJUSTABLE BANDWIDTH AROUND AN ADJUSTABLE LOW FREQ YOU SET (e.g adjust the bandwidth and set the center freq to around 40 or 50hz and then just turn it up a little). OR use the bass roll of on the LC2 to do more or less the same thing and use the JL bass EQ more as a volume control for the subs.

Haha, I think AudioControl (and maybe JL) should be thanking me/us for all the orders they are going to see as a result of this thread :) Great product(s) though and I guess they do deserve the credit and gratitude! :thumbup:
 

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Plastic Man
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All of these comments and directions are being shared with my installers. As I said I went to an authorized AC/JL dealer this morning to trouble shoot or correct the issues my other installer had, I get 5 year warranty on the piece letting them do it as well.

That is the issue then definetly - you both UK and Glock have split rears and I do not - basically it is like putting a subwoofer in a bank vault - when we open the trunk it sounds great and when we close it you can feel the bass outside but inside is like air tight back there.

Tomorrow we are just going to cut the plastic out and the metal out and put a nice piece of screen up. This will basically act as a port to the cabin, I will post the results tomorrow.
 
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