You can change just the bushing. They are sold in pairs at the dealership, and the price is decent. You take the arm off the car, then can push the old bushing out by pushing the new one in its place (using a shop press), just make sure the alignment marks line up properly when you push it in.
1.) Tighten up the bolt that goes through the bushing only once you have the weight of the car back down on it -- so you don't stress the bushing once you lower the car back down.
2.) On a 745 you need to take the brake air ducts down to get at the bolt going through the bushing (haven't looked at a 750, but it's probably the same).
Keif, I'm going to start doing this tension strut job tomorrow. Paid about $70 for the two bushings instead of paying about $650 to the dealership to do the whole job. Luckily, my neighbour is a machinist and will press the bushings out for me. I'll remind him about the orientation and I'll be sure to follow your hint about tightening the bushing bolt when the weight of the car is back on it.
A couple of questions:
1. What torque should the bushing bolt be tightened to? ...the ball joint at the other end?
2. How do I tell if the ball joint end is worn out?
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