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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my wife has a 93 325i which only has 132,000kms on it and is in real good shape. The problem were having is occasionally after driving it for a while itll overlfow coolent everywhere on the floor when turned off, from the overflow cap... I just replaced the waterpump and tried to do the thermostat but there wasnt one in the car, and i ended up getting the wrong one so currently it doesnt have one, but i am so confused on what the problem is. if i blow in the overflow and plug the little bleeder the coolent goes no where yet if i feel the radiator hoses both top and bottom, they seem to have no coolent just air in them. And only air comes out the bleeder when i squeeze them. Its like the resovior stops circulating and overflows as i drive (cause i smell coolent as i drive from time to time) and then fills up with air, and the coolent in the resovior heats up cause its not circulating and then has to go somewhere and overflows... if anyone can help that would be much appreciated. Oh and it never rised past half way on the temperature.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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Get a thermostat, then search for how to bleed the cooling system properly.

While replacing the thermostat, replace the rest of the cooling system.

Upper/lower rad hoses,
radiator,
fan,
expansion tank,
radiator cap,
waterpump,
thermostat housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ya i think it maybe is the overflow tank as if it gets a plug in the bottom or something preventing flow. I mean there was no thermostat there when i took off the housing... it blew me away there wasn't one there.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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Yet the entire cooling system needs to be replaced every 75-95k miles. So far it seems that this car was abused/neglected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I justed checked the car after about an hour of driving it and there is still coolant in the overflow tank and it hasnt gone down at all to fill the void of all the air that was in it. It spilled so much out but the tank has not gone down at all even with the bleeder completely removed??
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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Raise the front of the car 8-10".
Start engine.
Turn all HVAC dials to full hot, full blast.
open hood.
remove bleeder screw.
remove rad cap (be careful/use towels/gloves if engine is still hot).
add coolant.
watch bubbles come out of bleeder screw hole.
(gently) squeeze rad hoses.
add more coolant.
wait until bubbles stop.turn off car.
repeat.
repeat.
repeat.

Now you should have gotten MOST of the air out.

Drive around.

Bleed again later.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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No, just follow the steps I've outlined. (especially the 'replace the entire cooling system' bit, and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't understand why replace everything?? I know the water pump is done its not leaking from anywhere other than overflow cap why wouldn't i just replace the overflow and the cap and start there?? Its easy to say just replace everything but I really don't think it's the smartest thing, because if you have a problem with an engine running rough u don't just replace the whole engine u diagnose what's wrong and replace accordingly, I don't mean no disrespect but I've been around vehicles long enough to know that you should diagnose things rather than spend needlessly
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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The BMW plastic is notoriously brittle with age. It is commonly accepted as fact. Also accepted as fact is preventive maintenance. The cooling system on these cars is to be replaced every 75-95k miles. You don't have to do this, but expect to find sympathy in the dictionary between shyte and syphilis if you ignore this warning.
 

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The Canadian Prick.
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At this point Sir, I wash my hands of you.

I'm not saying that to be rude, however I don't know a single person on this forum (or any other) that does NOT recommend this routine maintenance.
 

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If you've got:

1) working water pump
2) working thermostat
3) a temp needle that reaches exactly 12 o'clock and never moves
4) a properly bled coolant system

and you've got continual problems with the cooling system pissing everywhere then IMO you've got one of the following problems:

1) Cracked rad/coolant tank/busted hose
2) Bad rad cap/leaking bleeder screw
3) blown headgasket

Check for leaks. Do a compression test.

Craig
 

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Smiling from gear to gear
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I think your taking this a bit personal buddy
I'm waiting for a Canadian style fight to break out here. :eeps:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuQK6t2Esng&feature=related

Just kidding fellas, settle down.

By any chance does your coolant only overflow when the engine is getting overworked?

I was trying to get unstuck in the snow last year and my coolant ended up purging a bit.

Otherwise I would lean towards the expansion tank/cap. That would be the easy/cheap place to start, if you don't plan on doing an entire overhaul.
 

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Fast Cars Suck!
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I would thoroughly clean the bay and see if you can spy a leak, if not then keep bleeding :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yA thats exactly what it seems like, its been fine for a month then she took it to the states for the day and came home after being in traffic and it overflowed at home, then yesterday i was in stop and go traffic and get home it overflowed. seems like if its in alot of traffic it overflows?? ya i ordered a new overflow tank and cap and see how that goes
 
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