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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done some searching and have notice a good amount of people have faced these problems it the past, or are dealing with it now.

To begin with, a problem that i'm currently dealing with is the vehicle jerking and the R.P.M bouncing up and down while coming to a stop or traveling at 20-25 MPH. You could say it happens while driving in first gear.

Second, is when making a turn left or right turn while going 15-35 MPH the cars begins to shake and feel a bit bouncy, but then goes away after a couple of seconds later. Let me tell you it gets annoying after a while.

Third, when I hit the breaks very quickly or almost immediately, the car kind of has an hesitation to fully stop. It almost feels like the vehicle isen't properly doing it's best to quickly stop. Again, this only happen when you hit the breaks very fast going about 1-3mph. However, my friend told me it may be your bushing or control arms. I have taken the car in for the recall and had them change the hose unfortunately that wasn't the problem.

Fourth, when reversing out of the garage, I turn the wheel to the left or even right then put it on drive and proceed to move forward thats when a big metal clunk noise or a popping noise of metal occurs. I searched the fourms and some of the people here said it was the conrol arms and or bushing.

Fifth, when I park the car, open the door to get out, the car moves about 2 inches or so. I even tried putting the car on "N" and then press the Emergency break, then finally put it on Park but it still sometimes does it. Once again, I was told it could be the control arms and bushing.

And the last one is when the vehicle is parked on a uphill or down hill and I turn the car on and put it on drive, I get this harsh pop noise from the car, it's kind of hard the explain this noise, but it isn't pleasent. This doesn't happen all the time, and iv'e realized when I press the break really hard and than change the gear from park to drive it doesn't do that harsh popping gear noise it actually changes smoothly.

What i'm trying to say here is peope have dealt with these issues and some were able to fix the problems. I wanted to know from your guys experience could this all be due the the bad bushing and control arms? or is there something else that's needed to be looked at. I'm taking the car in as soon as I have the time to get all of this fixed. I justed wanted a heads up before I do.

BTW it's a 2004 Bmw 745LI

Thank you all.:)
 

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hello i have a 2002 745LI with 65k and have some of the same problem you are having. Your second and third statement im having. My car get to 35-45 and the steering wheel shakes. also same with braking. I just had the control arm and bushing replace. The shaking stop but i still have same problem in first gear someone told me it might be the trans(hope not). I wil have trans check to make sure, dont want to spend 7,000 on a new trans.
 

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I've done some searching and have notice a good amount of people have faced these problems it the past, or are dealing with it now.

To begin with, a problem that i'm currently dealing with is the vehicle jerking and the R.P.M bouncing up and down while coming to a stop or traveling at 20-25 MPH. You could say it happens while driving in first gear.

Second, is when making a turn left or right turn while going 15-35 MPH the cars begins to shake and feel a bit bouncy, but then goes away after a couple of seconds later. Let me tell you it gets annoying after a while.

Third, when I hit the breaks very quickly or almost immediately, the car kind of has an hesitation to fully stop. It almost feels like the vehicle isen't properly doing it's best to quickly stop. Again, this only happen when you hit the breaks very fast going about 1-3mph. However, my friend told me it may be your bushing or control arms. I have taken the car in for the recall and had them change the hose unfortunately that wasn't the problem.

Fourth, when reversing out of the garage, I turn the wheel to the left or even right then put it on drive and proceed to move forward thats when a big metal clunk noise or a popping noise of metal occurs. I searched the fourms and some of the people here said it was the conrol arms and or bushing.

Fifth, when I park the car, open the door to get out, the car moves about 2 inches or so. I even tried putting the car on "N" and then press the Emergency break, then finally put it on Park but it still sometimes does it. Once again, I was told it could be the control arms and bushing.

And the last one is when the vehicle is parked on a uphill or down hill and I turn the car on and put it on drive, I get this harsh pop noise from the car, it's kind of hard the explain this noise, but it isn't pleasent. This doesn't happen all the time, and iv'e realized when I press the break really hard and than change the gear from park to drive it doesn't do that harsh popping gear noise it actually changes smoothly.

What i'm trying to say here is peope have dealt with these issues and some were able to fix the problems. I wanted to know from your guys experience could this all be due the the bad bushing and control arms? or is there something else that's needed to be looked at. I'm taking the car in as soon as I have the time to get all of this fixed. I justed wanted a heads up before I do.

BTW it's a 2004 Bmw 745LI

Thank you all.:)
Control arm bushings for the vibrations, the bouncy idle for me was a failing ignition coil. The jerking can be numerous things, for me it was the Universal Joint, you can check to see if your tranny pan is leaking or low, also check your mechatronic sleeve it may be leaking. The uphill stuff can be normal cause it happens to me when i park uphill too but im not sure u would have to do some research on it. Also for your breaks make sure your Vacuum pump is not leaking b/c if so it can mess up your brake booster which controls your power brakes and that may be why your getting a delay on breaking. Just sharing my personal experience, goodluck!
 

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I've done some searching and have notice a good amount of people have faced these problems it the past, or are dealing with it now.

To begin with, a problem that i'm currently dealing with is the vehicle jerking and the R.P.M bouncing up and down while coming to a stop or traveling at 20-25 MPH. You could say it happens while driving in first gear.

Second, is when making a turn left or right turn while going 15-35 MPH the cars begins to shake and feel a bit bouncy, but then goes away after a couple of seconds later. Let me tell you it gets annoying after a while.

Third, when I hit the breaks very quickly or almost immediately, the car kind of has an hesitation to fully stop. It almost feels like the vehicle isen't properly doing it's best to quickly stop. Again, this only happen when you hit the breaks very fast going about 1-3mph. However, my friend told me it may be your bushing or control arms. I have taken the car in for the recall and had them change the hose unfortunately that wasn't the problem.

Fourth, when reversing out of the garage, I turn the wheel to the left or even right then put it on drive and proceed to move forward thats when a big metal clunk noise or a popping noise of metal occurs. I searched the fourms and some of the people here said it was the conrol arms and or bushing.

Fifth, when I park the car, open the door to get out, the car moves about 2 inches or so. I even tried putting the car on "N" and then press the Emergency break, then finally put it on Park but it still sometimes does it. Once again, I was told it could be the control arms and bushing.

And the last one is when the vehicle is parked on a uphill or down hill and I turn the car on and put it on drive, I get this harsh pop noise from the car, it's kind of hard the explain this noise, but it isn't pleasent. This doesn't happen all the time, and iv'e realized when I press the break really hard and than change the gear from park to drive it doesn't do that harsh popping gear noise it actually changes smoothly.

What i'm trying to say here is peope have dealt with these issues and some were able to fix the problems. I wanted to know from your guys experience could this all be due the the bad bushing and control arms? or is there something else that's needed to be looked at. I'm taking the car in as soon as I have the time to get all of this fixed. I justed wanted a heads up before I do.

BTW it's a 2004 Bmw 745LI

Thank you all.:)
The jerking to a stop could be your car low on transmission fluid or it needing new fluid. From my findings and experience, the fluid is only good at MAX for 50K for these cars. If you do end up needing more fluid, buy the kit online and get a new pan, filter and all the oil for around 300ish.

The next 2 and 4 are related to your "thrust arms" or "control arm's". The bushings are worn allowing for excessive play in the suspension. I had the same feelings and clunking and it was all fixed with the new control arm bushings. Get them all checked out and replace whichever ones are worn.

3 is a combination of the ABS and as well your tires and maybe your brakes. I had the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they would loose traction easily under hard braking and make it feel hesitant to stop. Now I have better tires and that feeling is gone.

BUT like I said before, it may be the braking system as well. You are supposed to replace the brake fluid every 24 months on these cars. As well, you may want to check your calipers and make sure that they are lubed up properly and aren't binding. Last but not least, check your brake pads and rotors and see if they have the proper life left. BTW, what brand rotors and pads do you have? Are they the BMW stuff or factory equipment?

The last issue is a characteristic of the car. Mine does the same for some reason and I haven't been able to figure out why. I simply think its just the car putting the weight on the ebrake. And as far as that Pop or bang noise, that is also characteristic when the car rolls back to lock into the transmission.
 

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The jerking to a stop could be your car low on transmission fluid or it needing new fluid. From my findings and experience, the fluid is only good at MAX for 50K for these cars. If you do end up needing more fluid, buy the kit online and get a new pan, filter and all the oil for around 300ish.

The next 2 and 4 are related to your "thrust arms" or "control arm's". The bushings are worn allowing for excessive play in the suspension. I had the same feelings and clunking and it was all fixed with the new control arm bushings. Get them all checked out and replace whichever ones are worn.

3 is a combination of the ABS and as well your tires and maybe your brakes. I had the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they would loose traction easily under hard braking and make it feel hesitant to stop. Now I have better tires and that feeling is gone.

BUT like I said before, it may be the braking system as well. You are supposed to replace the brake fluid every 24 months on these cars. As well, you may want to check your calipers and make sure that they are lubed up properly and aren't binding. Last but not least, check your brake pads and rotors and see if they have the proper life left. BTW, what brand rotors and pads do you have? Are they the BMW stuff or factory equipment?

The last issue is a characteristic of the car. Mine does the same for some reason and I haven't been able to figure out why. I simply think its just the car putting the weight on the ebrake. And as far as that Pop or bang noise, that is also characteristic when the car rolls back to lock into the transmission.
I hope you're right, I have very similar issues. Wouldn't the "check engine" sign turn on from these?
 

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The first problem you mention of the RPM's jumping and the transmission shifting hard happened to me. My vehicle is a 2004 745i. My dealer kept it for over a week and told me the only fix was a new transmission. $7000 is what they said. Luckily this happened just before I went out of factory warranty.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx for all of your inputs, really appericate it.

Regarding my transmission, it goes way back. I had this one guy try to fix it over 4 times, but it was constantly leaking. Eventually after giving up and $1000 later I took it to a AMCO to have it fixed. Turned out that the guy I had took it to in the begining had broke a electronic unit that goes inside of the transmisson. I was told that that unit was $5000 to get it fixed, but they said that they could seal it and it should be fine. They also told me that they will put in new transmisson oil even though it was replaced by the first guy that I taken to in the begining. So I don't think it may be from low transmission oil. But again it's better to be safe than sorry.

The breaks I have are Akebono and the rotors are Ate one premium slotted. I changed it about 5-8k miles ago. However, I haven't changed my break fluid but I had it inspected and was told it's fine for now.

My front tires are Eagle One Gt sport tires just put those one. As for the back tires they are Prielli P Zero Rosso. I don't think it could be from the tires it feels more like maybe the break fluid or something relevant to it.

I've checked the car and found no leaks, But my water pump has been acting up lately. When I start the car it's fine until about 40 seconds later. It almost sounds like a disel engine running. It kind of feels like it doesn't allow the car the perform at it's best in the begining when the vehicle begins to accelerate. I also realized that it was getting worse at some point so I checked the anti freeze and saw it was low. I filled it up back to the top and the noise had reduced however, it still makes the noise after 40 seconds, but not as bad. I'm planning on changing that as well.
 

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Thx for all of your inputs, really appericate it.

Regarding my transmission, it goes way back. I had this one guy try to fix it over 4 times, but it was constantly leaking. Eventually after giving up and $1000 later I took it to a AMCO to have it fixed. Turned out that the guy I had took it to in the begining had broke a electronic unit that goes inside of the transmisson. I was told that that unit was $5000 to get it fixed, but they said that they could seal it and it should be fine. They also told me that they will put in new transmisson oil even though it was replaced by the first guy that I taken to in the begining. So I don't think it may be from low transmission oil. But again it's better to be safe than sorry.

The breaks I have are Akebono and the rotors are Ate one premium slotted. I changed it about 5-8k miles ago. However, I haven't changed my break fluid but I had it inspected and was told it's fine for now.

My front tires are Eagle One Gt sport tires just put those one. As for the back tires they are Prielli P Zero Rosso. I don't think it could be from the tires it feels more like maybe the break fluid or something relevant to it.

I've checked the car and found no leaks, But my water pump has been acting up lately. When I start the car it's fine until about 40 seconds later. It almost sounds like a disel engine running. It kind of feels like it doesn't allow the car the perform at it's best in the begining when the vehicle begins to accelerate. I also realized that it was getting worse at some point so I checked the anti freeze and saw it was low. I filled it up back to the top and the noise had reduced however, it still makes the noise after 40 seconds, but not as bad. I'm planning on changing that as well.
Yeah man change that water pump asap, it can crap out on you at the most inopportune time. mines started with the noise and invisible leak then i started to wake up to puddles under my car and decided to change it.
 

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I hope you're right, I have very similar issues. Wouldn't the "check engine" sign turn on from these?
It may turn on for the low fluid but the trans will start acting up with even 1/4 litre low, the signal is triggered at about 1/2 a litre or so low.

Thx for all of your inputs, really appericate it.

Regarding my transmission, it goes way back. I had this one guy try to fix it over 4 times, but it was constantly leaking. Eventually after giving up and $1000 later I took it to a AMCO to have it fixed. Turned out that the guy I had took it to in the begining had broke a electronic unit that goes inside of the transmisson. I was told that that unit was $5000 to get it fixed, but they said that they could seal it and it should be fine. They also told me that they will put in new transmisson oil even though it was replaced by the first guy that I taken to in the begining. So I don't think it may be from low transmission oil. But again it's better to be safe than sorry.

The breaks I have are Akebono and the rotors are Ate one premium slotted. I changed it about 5-8k miles ago. However, I haven't changed my break fluid but I had it inspected and was told it's fine for now.

My front tires are Eagle One Gt sport tires just put those one. As for the back tires they are Prielli P Zero Rosso. I don't think it could be from the tires it feels more like maybe the break fluid or something relevant to it.

I've checked the car and found no leaks, But my water pump has been acting up lately. When I start the car it's fine until about 40 seconds later. It almost sounds like a disel engine running. It kind of feels like it doesn't allow the car the perform at it's best in the begining when the vehicle begins to accelerate. I also realized that it was getting worse at some point so I checked the anti freeze and saw it was low. I filled it up back to the top and the noise had reduced however, it still makes the noise after 40 seconds, but not as bad. I'm planning on changing that as well.
Oh dear....
First of all, if the transmission is leaking it's 2 simple gaskets that need to be replaced. One is a seal for the "control Unit" and the other is for the transmission pan. This is common and there is even a DIY here for it! If it's the "control unit" that is acting up, then that is an entirely different story and would cause horrid shifts and other things like misc errors.

Second of all, what transmission fluid did the first guy and aamco put in? The wrong fluid will really mess with the transmission. Use something proper like the Lifeguard 6 Fluid, Castrol Multivehicle import fluid or Redline D4 (I'm a fan of the D4).

Third, akebono's have much less of an inital bite than the OEM pads do. Did you bed the rotors in properly when you had them put on? If not, bedding them in will really help them feel a bit better. Like I said before, change the fluid every 24 months with the proper Dot 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid.

Fourth, your leaking coolant if it's lower than it should be. Get it checked out! Also if you are adding coolant and that makes that sound disappear, that's your waterpump getting overworked from the low coolant! Fill up the proper amount and you may want to look into getting it replaced!

With a little bit of TLC, your 7 will be in tip top shape!
 

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If you do end up needing more fluid, buy the kit online and get a new pan, filter and all the oil for around 300ish.
How can I confirm if I need more fluid or not?
Can you point where online they sell it?

It may turn on for the low fluid but the trans will start acting up with even 1/4 litre low, the signal is triggered at about 1/2 a litre or so low.

Oh dear....
First of all, if the transmission is leaking it's 2 simple gaskets that need to be replaced. One is a seal for the "control Unit" and the other is for the transmission pan. This is common and there is even a DIY here for it! If it's the "control unit" that is acting up, then that is an entirely different story and would cause horrid shifts and other things like misc errors.

Second of all, what transmission fluid did the first guy and aamco put in? The wrong fluid will really mess with the transmission. Use something proper like the Lifeguard 6 Fluid, Castrol Multivehicle import fluid or Redline D4 (I'm a fan of the D4).

Third, akebono's have much less of an inital bite than the OEM pads do. Did you bed the rotors in properly when you had them put on? If not, bedding them in will really help them feel a bit better. Like I said before, change the fluid every 24 months with the proper Dot 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid.

Fourth, your leaking coolant if it's lower than it should be. Get it checked out! Also if you are adding coolant and that makes that sound disappear, that's your waterpump getting overworked from the low coolant! Fill up the proper amount and you may want to look into getting it replaced!

With a little bit of TLC, your 7 will be in tip top shape!
Great info^ I need to save this post :thumbup:
 

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How can I confirm if I need more fluid or not?
Can you point where online they sell it?

Great info^ I need to save this post :thumbup:
only way to find out is when it overflows when your putting fluid in, usautoparts.net is where i got my pan from
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It may turn on for the low fluid but the trans will start acting up with even 1/4 litre low, the signal is triggered at about 1/2 a litre or so low.

Oh dear....
First of all, if the transmission is leaking it's 2 simple gaskets that need to be replaced. One is a seal for the "control Unit" and the other is for the transmission pan. This is common and there is even a DIY here for it! If it's the "control unit" that is acting up, then that is an entirely different story and would cause horrid shifts and other things like misc errors.

Second of all, what transmission fluid did the first guy and aamco put in? The wrong fluid will really mess with the transmission. Use something proper like the Lifeguard 6 Fluid, Castrol Multivehicle import fluid or Redline D4 (I'm a fan of the D4).

Third, akebono's have much less of an inital bite than the OEM pads do. Did you bed the rotors in properly when you had them put on? If not, bedding them in will really help them feel a bit better. Like I said before, change the fluid every 24 months with the proper Dot 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid.

Fourth, your leaking coolant if it's lower than it should be. Get it checked out! Also if you are adding coolant and that makes that sound disappear, that's your waterpump getting overworked from the low coolant! Fill up the proper amount and you may want to look into getting it replaced!

With a little bit of TLC, your 7 will be in tip top shape!
There is no leaks as of now (knock on wood) and i'm not sure what type of transmission oil they put in the car. I just assumed that a place like AMCOO would know what their doing expecially the guy I was talking with seemed like he knew what he was doing. As for the breaks being bed i'm not sure I know what that is or how it's done. But i'am thinking about getting me break fluid changed. Is it hard to change the break fluid by any chance? and if I did consider having the breaks bed how would I go about that?

Thanks.
 

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There is no leaks as of now (knock on wood) and i'm not sure what type of transmission oil they put in the car. I just assumed that a place like AMCOO would know what their doing expecially the guy I was talking with seemed like he knew what he was doing. As for the breaks being bed i'm not sure I know what that is or how it's done. But i'am thinking about getting me break fluid changed. Is it hard to change the break fluid by any chance? and if I did consider having the breaks bed how would I go about that?

Thanks.
Bedding in the brakes isn't that difficult and anyone can do it provided they have the streets/roads to do it:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
 

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Any results after posting this? I am wondering since I also have the bouncing tach... I will probably get the tranny fluid replaced...
 
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