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Yes, 08 means index 8. I would check all of the other injectors index numbers. You should be able to see and photo w/o removing. If the others are not all 8's, then maybe you can buy a replacement and rearrange to make them the same on a given bank. I'm surprised to see index 8 injectors. In the US, BMW had a recall campaign to install index 9 injectors. 581 & 227 below the bar code in the second photo are the calibration values that need to be entered into the DME. There is only one pre-cat O2 sensor for each bank, so it's important that each injector supply the exact same amount of fuel for a given opening duration. The codes allow this to happen.
I see cyl #3 also index 8. What if I can only get index 09 . Can I buy just 1 injector and install in Cylinder 4? That mean

What was the recall of injector . Wonder if I can still get from dealer for replacement of injectors.

Thanks for your help with the calibration value . I have no idea when people are talking about calibration value until now.
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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I defer to others on indexing. However, from some limited surfing, it looks compliacted. Each injector needs to be coded. And, you cannot intermix, in the same bank, indexes up to and including 10, with 11 and higher. So, that would indicate you couple replace (and code) an 8 with a 9 or 10 and just replace that one. But, please check it all out before proceeding.

I suspect you won't get anywhere with BMW, but you can try. This might be handy...

 

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I defer to others on indexing. However, from some limited surfing, it looks compliacted. Each injector needs to be coded. And, you cannot intermix, in the same bank, indexes up to and including 10, with 11 and higher. So, that would indicate you couple replace (and code) an 8 with a 9 or 10 and just replace that one. But, please check it all out before proceeding.

I suspect you won't get anywhere with BMW, but you can try. This might be handy...

I read all of my injectors and they are as follow.

Cyl 1 - 7565138-06
Cyl 2 - 7565138-06
Cyl 3 - 7585261-08
Cyl 4 - 7585261-08
Cyl 5 - 7585261-08
Cyl 6 - 7585261-08

So look like cyl 1 and 2 has index 6 and the rest is 8 . They do mix them . I have this car for years and I have never had injector service . This came with the car when I bought used 6 years ago and I never had a problem till now with regard to misfiring due to wet plug .

When you said bank. What do you mean . Cyl 1 and 2 is part of a bank ?
Thanks for your time .
Mannig
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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2,232 Posts
eBay is a reasonable choice since you can provide the installation labor. If the eBay unit leaks, you can force a return for credit. I would not buy anything that claims to be "rebuilt". If you have PC skills you can install ISTA on a laptop, buy a K+DCan cable and code the DME yourself. I've used this one successfully.
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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Bank 1 is cyl 1-3, Bank 2 is cyl 4-6.
My 535i was built in May 2009. I bought it in July 2014 from the second owner who bought it as a CPO. The remaining CPO warranty covered me until Aug 2015. The warranty history report showed that BMW had replaced all injectors at no charge in Dec 2012. I believe this installed (6) index 9 injectors. In Nov 2014 I had rough running on cold starts when temps were below ~35F and a cyl 5 misfire. BMW replaced (3) bank 2 injectors with index 11 units, even though only cyl 5 was bad.. At the tiome the philosophy was that all injectors in a bank needed to have the same index number. ~2 years ago I was having long crank/start times and an occasional cyl 1 misfire code. Plugs showed Cyl 3 was running very rich, plug was black. I installed (1) new index 12 injector and programmed the DME, keeping the (2) index 9's in the same bank. Several weeks later with no drivability issues, I pulled the plugs to check condition. The index 9 plugs were darker that the index 12. I replaced the two remaining bank 1 index 9 injectors.
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
1032545
1032546
1032547


I am sorry for keeping the thread going so long as my car issue continue with difference issues as you can see by the codes above. Just to give you all a summary of what is going on since last updated with regard to wet spark plug #4 .
1/ I pulled injector 4 (index 8) and surface cleaned at the tip with carb cleaner.
2/ coincidently after I re-installed, without starting the engine, on following morning, I pulled and checked spark plug#4 . It is bone dry! Perhaps we can say that since I removed number 4 injector, any residual fuel pressure in the system also removed that is why the spark plug is dry.
3/ I started the engine and ran till engine at its operating temp. Shut the engine off..pulled #4 spark plug out and check. Still the spark plug is bone dry and no issue with misfiring. Engine ran perfectly.
4/ I drove the car for a week, on the highway and put on 400 km. No engine issue. I was about to give you guys an update that my engine issue has been solved few days ago, but want to wait a bit longer. until yesterday, I am back with engine idling issue at cold start.
5/ yesterday, the car start running rough at idling after started up. Smell gas like someone has a gas can open beside me. Engine wants to stall. I kept the engine rev up for few mins. It didn’t seem to help. Engine light lit up. 😱. I shut the engine off. Restarted the engine. It ran fine. Engine light went away .
6/ I started the engine again today, it did the same thing as yesterday. Idling rough, smell gas gain. Engine light lit up. Checked I driver information. Nothing .. no error.
7/ shut the engine off and immediately restart the engine. The engine is purring like no engine issue. I drove the car about 10 km distance and absolutely no engine issue or drive ability issue.
8/ pull the codes using Carly even without engine light. Got the above codes registered with Carly code reader.

I really can’t solve this engine random problem. Anyone has this issue you can share? Help please .😔
1032548
1032549
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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2,232 Posts
My misfires were much worse in cold weather. Overnight temp variations might explain why your rough starts are intermittent. I had trouble identifying the misfiring cylinder also. I had to setup code reader before starting in order to be ready to scan for codes as soon as engine began running and misfiring. I couldn't find misfire codes after restarting and engine was running smooth.
The misfire on start causes DME to disable the cylinder. On restart the DME ignores the cylinder disable from the previous start and gives the cylinder another chance to behave. By then air moving thru the cylinder has dried out the cylinder and all is well until the next prolonged off period during which the injector leaks again.
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So you think I still have injector leaking issue then? Should I put an injector cleaning solution in my gas tank? If yes, any recommendation if you have already done it
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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I'll gladly entertain other ideas, but a leaking injector remains the best explanation for rough start followed by the issue going away completely on restart. I don't use injector cleaner. There's inexpensive, top tier, Costco gas near me. Techron was what BMW recommended when they had intake valve deposit problems. They also had a warning to change your oil after (2) bottles. I recall it turning the oil a reddish color. Cleaner won't hurt, but I've never heard anyone claim it fixed an N54 injector problem. It's strange you can't retrieve any misfire codes. That may change if/when the leakage rate gets worse. The good news is you are able to fix the problem by restarting, which makes it a nuisance at worst.
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
1032634
1032635
1032636


Okay. The car parked overnight. More than 18 hrs parked. I just pulled all of my spark plugs out and check to see if any of them wet? None of the spark plug is wet.. Including number 4 which I had problem before. So I don’t think it is injector issue unless it is intermittent too. See pictures of the few samples.
Someone or maybe you said the Cam sensors or crankshaft position sensor could be the issue . Since my crankshaft sensor is new. Should I remove the camshaft sensor and clean with brake cleaner ? One at the time!

Thoughts?
Thanks so much for your time chiming on this.
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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2,232 Posts
We know it's intermittent since you drove for a week w/o issues. Since youve got your tools out, put the plugs back in and start. If it runs rough shutdown and pull plugs again checking for fuel. If they're dry it's not an injector problem. It wasn't me. I can't make a believable case that a cam or crank sensor issue will fix itself on restart.
 

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2001 325i sedan 5mt, 2009 535xi Touring 6mt
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508 Posts
I have 3 of my old index 7 injectors and I can send them to you for cheap. The car ran perfectly before and after I upgraded them to index 12. I just did it because people recommended it but I never had any problems. Coding them is not hard if you have INPA or other tools available to you. I have the injector o-ring tools as well but I would want them sent back. Send me a message if you're interested.
 

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Thanks .
i just pulled the injector 4 out to check the injector and want to see how easy to pull it out. It came out fairly easy without extractor tool. The fuel line that feed injector 4 has enough residual fuel pressure even I haven’t start the car for two days. I know this won’t do much but I do have a bit of carb cleaner to I decided to clean the tip a bit.
So I do have a question.
  • do I have to buy injector with index 8 to match?
  • what if I don’t program the injector , will it damage the car or just fuel economy or performance is the issue ?

thanks everyone for your time,
Did you check inside the cylinder 4 with a light for any pooling of fluid/fuel ? Next, insert a long pipe cleaner or something to swab the fluid, if any and smell it for signs of fuel or coolant. No point looking at the spark plugs as the leaking fuel will drip past them into the cylinder. Also check you oil level for signs of stronger than usual fuel smell or thinning of oil. I would also check wiring to/from DME and that you have a voltage signal and pulse at the faulty injector before swapping parts out.

Your crank shaft sensor would give a consistant bad signal if faulty and more probably not on just a single cylinder. The fact that the misfire is just cylinder 4 does not point to a crank signal fault. Maybe a flywheel tooth could do that but you would then have a persistant misfire or some other effect of that.
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
We know it's intermittent since you drove for a week w/o issues. Since youve got your tools out, put the plugs back in and start. If it runs rough shutdown and pull plugs again checking for fuel. If they're dry it's not an injector problem. It wasn't me. I can't make a believable case that a cam or crank sensor issue will fix itself on restart.
Sorry I mean Vano solenoids. Could that be a Issue? I wish there is engine code as I hate fixing car like this.
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Current problem : “run rough on start up. Engine rpm fluctuate around 600-800” . Immediately shut off and restart the engine . It runs fine. No issue with drive ability. Accelerate fine

I know this probably has nothing to do with my engine running rough issue at start up but I am desperate to find the problem so I took the intake Vano solenoid - removed and cleaned it, put fresh oil on solenoid before reinstalled back in the engine. I didn’t Drive the car today so this would be a cold start.

1- checked all spark plugs for injector leaking . None found. Spark plug is dry on all cylinders
2- remove Intake Vanos solenoid - reinstalled back in the same location
3- start engine and idling fluctuate 600-800 rpm - does not run smooth and no engine light
4- shut engine off and immediately restart the engine . It runs fine . RPM at 1100
5- let engine idle till operate temperature . No issue either.

As per Pshovest suggestion, Tomorrow I am going to get Carly code reader on before start the engine cold . I am going to start the engine and if it run rough like above. I am going to pull spark plug 3,4,5 to check for wetness. Cyl 3 is my reference since I never has any misfiring issue with cyl 3 to compare it against 4 and 5
Not sure with Carly live data on cylinders for comparison. I don’t understand the data presented but I hope someone here do and can explain it to me.

I will have my white towel beside me and ready to toss it up in the air with this issue .

Thanks everyone ,

1032663
 

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Current problem : “run rough on start up. Engine rpm fluctuate around 600-800” . Immediately shut off and restart the engine . It runs fine. No issue with drive ability. Accelerate fine

1- checked all spark plugs for injector leaking . None found. Spark plug is dry on all cylinders
2- remove Intake Vanos solenoid - reinstalled back in the same location
3- start engine and idling fluctuate 600-800 rpm - does not run smooth and no engine light
4- shut engine off and immediately restart the engine . It runs fine . RPM at 1100
5- let engine idle till operate temperature . No issue either.

I will have my white towel beside me and ready to toss it up in the air with this issue .
Not sure what any of that is going to achieve as the rough monitors will not activate until open loop or RPM's are higher or below baseline. Why not inspect each of the cylinders for any fluid before a cold start after sitting for a day. Shine a torch into each cylinder and you will see the sparkle of fluid on top of the piston if any. If injector leaking or any fluid in cylinder then that would cause the misfire in that cylinder. The inital crank would expel or burn off any fluid present which is why the restart most likely is fine aftwards.

I had similar problem misfire problem on cold starts that cleared after re-ignition and then drove fine. My issue got worse over several months and turned out to be the catalytic converter gradually breaking up and causing an exhaust restriction. Initially affected the idle and RPM's would fluctuate at traffic lights. No codes either. Finally I couldn't even overtake on the highways as there was no power whatsover to pass a bus.

Another car I owned had the exact same symptoms but this turned out to be a hairline
crack in cylinder head which slowly leak coolant into cylinder over night. THe crack would seal itself when the engine was hot so the car drive fine and I kept the car on the road for another 3 years and still passed all its inspections. Not sure if the Radweld that I added helped but I do remember pouring a bottle into the engine block in desperation. Eventually decided to stripped the engine down and found a crack close to an exhaust valve. Decided I wasn't going to spend anything on sorting that out so just did a quick micro weld over the crack and buffed it all up. Put the engine back together and was over the moon that the leak had actually gone.

Why not just disconnect the vanos solenoid completely and start the engine, see how the car drives with no vanos solenoid active. If starts and drives like "poo" then your vanos is not the issue.

Sorry about the long and boring reply, people cant stay awake around me either. 😊
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Car is running fine once I restart the engine even while engine still cold. No issue with hard acceleration . Would that prove catalytic converter or VANOS is fine? Ignition coils (all 6) are less than 1 year old that replaced as preventive maintenance. Would dirty MAF do that? I saw oil stain around my MAF in my intake tube to intake manifold
 

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2008 BMW 535xi
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Car is running fine once I restart the engine even while engine still cold. No issue with hard acceleration . Would that prove catalytic converter or VANOS is fine? Ignition coils (all 6) are less than 1 year old that replaced as preventive maintenance. Would dirty MAF do that? I saw oil stain around my MAF in my intake. The oil stain from WD-40 I used at throttle body when the intake tube stuck that I could not remove. I didn’t know where the MAF sensor was and spray around throttle body to release plastic intake tube. I got it off and wipe excess oil around the MAF sensor as best as I could. I m thinking that could be my problem.
Worth pull it off and clean it with carb cleaner?
 

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Car is running fine once I restart the engine even while engine still cold. No issue with hard acceleration . Would that prove catalytic converter or VANOS is fine? Ignition coils (all 6) are less than 1 year old that replaced as preventive maintenance. Would dirty MAF do that? I saw oil stain around my MAF in my intake tube to intake manifold
Can't see why a faulty MAF would suddenly not be faulty after restarting the engine. The fact that it's rough on initial start and then fine after the next start could even point to a battery issue as the intial start could charge the battery a little more than it was. But could also be the leaky injector or fluid in the cylinder. Seems unlikely to be a coil or plug issue as it is very consistant and like you say drives perfectly aftwards. Not sayng yours is cat problem, that just turned out to be the cause of my issue. VANOS is not activated until certain RPM's so that won't be the issue either as why would that all of a sudden work after a restart of the engine.

What you could try is before starting the engine each day, prime the fuel pump a few times. If you don't know what that means, then it's just a case of turning the ignition key to the point before engine start (2 clicks of the key). Wait 5 seconds then switch off the ignition (2 clicks of key back). Wait 5 seconds. Repeat this 3 times then start the engine. If the idle problem is gone then I suspect the fuel pressure is not good.
 
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