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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I am in the process of replacing the crankshaft position sensor and it's stuck ! Took the hex bolt out, hammered it (the sensor) gently but it won't budge at all. It's like welded in that place :banghead:. Also tried to push it from the bottom until I realized its bottom began to bend, so I gave up on that approach.

Anybody else had or heard of this problem before ? Suggestions ? Fought with it for like 2 hours :mad: !!!!
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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If you bent the "inside" part of it, you're screwed. You've got a new one, right? Drill the remains out, then be careful installing the new one. A soak with Kroil or some other penetrating oil would have prevented this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks hornhospital.

Yes, I do have a new one. Was afraid to use Kroil due to the proximity of the belts. I'll cover them and add some in the morning. The "tip" of the sensor is very slightly bent on one side (by trying to push it out using a screwdriver as a lever between the crankshaft wheel and the tip of the sensor :( => So I'm screwed then :eek: ? ).
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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29,927 Posts
It won't hurt to try pulling on it again after the Kroil works for a few hours. I'm just afraid the end is bradded over enough it will prevent the old sensor from coming out. Whatever you do, be careful of the slotted crankshaft disk. Good luck.

Just as a warning...the crank sensor is much like the ABS sensors, if you ever have to replace one of those. I've ruined more than I've gotten out in one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again hornhospital.

I'll soak it in Kroil early tomorrow morning and then use a vise grip to "convince it" to come out, hopefully. Will have the drill handy too.

I guess I'll have to take the thermostat hoses out to make more room ... which means a trip to the dealer to get more coolant while the Kroil is working. Just hope I don't have to take the radiator out too ...:rolleyes:
 

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i always like to suggest a running start with the hammer, but it appears that will not be working much for you anyway...:angel:


seriously tho, ken is correct. the use of penetrating oil will greatly assist in removal of the crank sensor. they can be buggers to get out, but that's usually because they are getting replaced.

never used kroil. how does it compare with pb blaster?? :dunno:



df
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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29,927 Posts
IMO Kroil is better. Smells better, too. :thumbup: I've used it on bolts that were so corroded you couldn't see the threads (exhaust clamp bolts) and the next day the nuts came off, no sweat. It's amazing stuff. Seriously. Kind of hard to find, though. I order it from MSC, but you can get it direct from http://www.kanolabs.com

Of course, you can always make your own penetrating fluid that supposedly works better than any commercially made product. 50%ATF/50%Acetone. Guys that restore old tractors and two-stroke stationary engines swear it's the best there is.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi guys,

Just to let you know that I managed to replace the sensor eventually :banana:. Had to drain the radiator, remove the fan and the two large coolant hoses to the thermostat housing to make enough room for the job :doh:. It took a ton of Kroil (indeed, it does smell better than PB blaster), a good few dozens of rubber mallet blows, a thin screwdriver to break it loose and the channel lock for most of the final pulling. I was very lucky that I've stopped just in time and only very slightly bent the tip of the old sensor.

Finally, I had to use sandpaper to smooth out the sensor mounting "ring/support" since it had quite a bit of buildup. After that, the new sensor slid in effortlessly.

Thank you very much guys for all your help. Very much appreciated :bow:
 

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Humble E34 lover
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Hi guys,

Just to let you know that I managed to replace the sensor eventually :banana:. Had to drain the radiator, remove the fan and the two large coolant hoses to the thermostat housing to make enough room for the job :doh:. It took a ton of Kroil (indeed, it does smell better than PB blaster), a good few dozens of rubber mallet blows, a thin screwdriver to break it loose and the channel lock for most of the final pulling. I was very lucky that I've stopped just in time and only very slightly bent the tip of the old sensor.

Finally, I had to use sandpaper to smooth out the sensor mounting "ring/support" since it had quite a bit of buildup. After that, the new sensor slid in effortlessly.

Thank you very much guys for all your help. Very much appreciated :bow:
Does your car now run ?
 
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