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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1994 325i

This is my fault but when I had to replace a fuse for the instrument panel lighting (FUSE #37) and I didn't have the correct amp fuse on me (10 AMP) i stuck a 30 AMP in there cuz that is all I had.

the car ran fine for a few days then started to smoke from behind the console and through the steering column inside the car. burnt rubber smell.

I replaced the fuses in the right places with the right AMP. But it seems that the burning caused a crossed wire somewhere or something. Here is what happens:

with all of the fuses in, the car seems fine and all the lights work everywhere but the computer says (LIC PLATE LIGHT FAIL, LOW BEAM LIGHT FAIL) while running with lights on. If you turn the car off and turn the light switch off, the console lites stay on and the R LIC plate late only stays on. the only way to turn them off is to remove FUSE #37.

????

is this a bad relay? A burnt and crossed wire? :dunno: I've checked all fuses, all bulbs, everything OK.

where do I start to diagnose? any help would be great!

thanks!
 

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Sounds like a short to me buddy

The wires in the console are packed very tight together so when they got hot they would have melted together and that is what is probably causing the errors.

I have been guilty of putting too higher rated fuse in a 10amp slot too and almost blew the car up.

Easy to say with hindsight but always go with the rating they suggest. my old ford with a burned dashboard is proof hehehehe
 

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hmm it could be a short but then all the park lights woulld be on..............on miine just the dash light are on no warning lights just the regualr lights that usually come on wen the parks lite are on also the switches for the windows illuminate and only the liscence plate lights are on outside :confused: ohh yea its a 318i 1995 by the way
 

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At the risk of being rude, this is why B.M.W. stipululate different AMPs for different fuses. Its like, you wouldnt put deisel in a petrol car, "because it the only fuel avaliable".

Take it to an auto-electrician, and get it sorted out properly, so your car dosnt burn out and bugger everything.!!
 

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Well PEARL, I think my post is useful. If you dont like the reality sometimes, maybe you shouldnt be here. Go wrap yourself up in cotton wool.

The bottom line is that old mate knowingly put the wrong fuse in, and its buggered things up.

I think its a good bit of advice to tell him to take the car to an auto-electrician to fix it, because if he cant put the right fuse in, in the first place, what chance does old mate have to find a short or go playing any further with the electrics.

have a nice day, and dont chew the cotton wool wrapper.
 

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wow sumbody got there panties in a knot.......... an wut is this cotton wool wrapper u speak of......... ne how ............the dude asked how to fix it basically, not ur opinon on takin it to a garage Mate ohh an take it to a garage???????? um ne smuchk can tell sumone that :thumbup:
 

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John Firestone
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These are common symptoms of broken and shorted wires inside the trunk to trunk lid cable. Push back the rubberized sleeve and examine the wiring where it bends most sharply approaching the trunk lid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
conehead sucks

the funny thing is I started this thread 3 yrs ago...

and yes it was my fault when I put the 30AMP in F37. I meant to replace it with the 10AMP later but I forgot, and it worked fine for a couple of days. it eventually fried my headlight switch and check control module when it became dark and I turned the headlights on. running that much juice through the F37 circuit fried my CCM and HL switch, naturally. it was summer time during the middle of the week so thats why I hadnt been driving with my Headlights on...

well, i replaced the CCM and headlight switch. Everything ok, CHECK CONTROL OK. This was 3 years ago.

dumb stuff happens, but yeah I agree with Pearl. if you're not going to help then dont post. any a$$hole can post "just take it to a mechanic." so conehead...you suck. go drive a honda.

Here's the best part. I've had no issues with this for almost 3 years. And sure enough...F37 is shorting again. Now Im not going to put a 30 AMP in it. But I think John F is probably right. I have a kink in the trunk wiring that is exposed to the metal, or perhaps another exposed wire touching something...and its been dormant for years and has now emerged once again!

....I figured it out once before, I will again! :thumbup:
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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