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i ordered this oil on the Internet. when I arrived, I saw that the bmw ll 04 had no written approval. i immediately called the seller and he told me it was the same oil, I did not trust him. i called different sellers and they said the same thing . should I fill it up or take different oils? M54b30 at 232k.
Tire Liquid Wheel Automotive care Fluid
 

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In reality your car doesn't know if your oil is LL01, LL04 or TickleMeElmo approved. I assume that is your question. If you think that is a good quality oil and the viscosity meets your specific climate characteristics then go ahead and use it. Just don't wait for 15,000 miles to do your next oil change.
 

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Honestly the above is the right answer.

There are a lot of people on here who are crazy about their oil.

Full synthetic and get your weight correct.

As long as you maintain oil changes and make sure there is always oil in it you will be fine.


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I've been using Mobil1 forever on my BMWs. I recalled Castrol was the BMW oil when I bought my car new back then. But it was hard (and maybe still is) to find Castrol 0W-40 for me so I used Mobil 1 0W-40. No oil related issues, 110K miles later, once a year oil change/10K miles.

I bet if regular oil came in 0W-40, that would work too, as long as you drive gently and change oil more frequently. My brother's 98 Camry uses regular oil (he's cheap) but he changes oil regularly more frequently and he drives like a great grandpa (worse than me). His car is at 200K miles.
 

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I agree with Meinbills.
However, if you want to really learn about motor oil, you need to learn about the various standards. For example, each auto manufacturer has a standard for motor oil. In the Motul example, the standard is C3 by ACEA.
 

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My brother's 98 Camry uses regular oil (he's cheap) but he changes oil regularly more frequently and he drives like a great grandpa (worse than me). His car is at 200K miles.
He's probably spending more (or at least, no less) in the long run than if he used a quality synthetic oil and changed it less often. A 200K-mile engine might be remarkable for a Toyota using dino oil--for a BMW motor it's a good start. :)
 
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where da clutch at ?
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exactly, an old adage from bobtheoilguy is doesnt matter what you use just change it often

(I mean yes it does, but more importantr you DO NOT LEAVE IT 15K)
this is a BMW money saving idea and nothing to do with the health of your car
I do twice a year and mid year I do a filter change only

took my 1'er on 22k to 170k with NO engine/oil related issues, my vanos was solid !

In reality your car doesn't know if your oil is LL01, LL04 or TickleMeElmo approved. I assume that is your question. If you think that is a good quality oil and the viscosity meets your specific climate characteristics then go ahead and use it. Just don't wait for 15,000 miles to do your next oil change.
 
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where da clutch at ?
2020 BMW 230i
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my dealer guy laughed, well,, the front receptionist asked why I wanted to do an oil change and rear dif change at 2000km, on my brand new car.
she can keep driving her fuc8niog Chrysler and I'll drive my BMW
the SA totally understood
 

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where da clutch at ?
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you do not need to bother about LLO or whatever, IF you decide to do an oil change every 15k, then yes, otherwise, castrol, mobil, dish water all fine..


DISCLAIMER
Adrianjayonline does not advocate the use of dishwater in place of oil :)
 
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where da clutch at ?
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jump to 3:50, see the oil after a 15k change interval (I learned from that)

 

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Follow what everyone said above, as long as fully synthetic and correct weight for your climate go for it. I run fully synthetic 5W40 in my M54B30. Pretty sure all it means if it passes BMW spec is that its good for long life (thats what LL stands for). To BMW long life is 15k mile oil changes or more. Just do an oil change every 5k miles and call it a day.
 

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5K with synth is a bit much. But then again if your driving is "severe" then yeah.

I crawled underneath my car the other day and saw the label on my manual transmission "Lifetime Fluid". I chuckled. When I bought my car new back in 2001, the dealer had free oil change at 15K miles each for the duration of the warranty. That was the only time I had my OC interval at 15K miles.
 

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exactly, an old adage from bobtheoilguy is doesnt matter what you use just change it often

(I mean yes it does, but more importantr you DO NOT LEAVE IT 15K)
this is a BMW money saving idea and nothing to do with the health of your car
I do twice a year and mid year I do a filter change only

took my 1'er on 22k to 170k with NO engine/oil related issues, my vanos was solid !
Synthetic does give you some peace of mind in really cold winter. Cars with dino oil would have a hard time starting up on really cold morning parked outside. I still remember those days, long cranks with the engine screeching initially. With synthetic, you don't have that problem.
 

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Send oil in to Blackstone and avoid all guesswork for state of oil.

Send oil in to Blackstone every oil change to trend the data and gauge engine health.

I send in a sample every 5k miles on the BMW (and every oil change for every vehicle), starting at 165k miles, now approaching 185k. I don’t use any measurable amount of oil between changes. Those samples show that Castrol 5w-40 is a much worse oil than the Castrol 0w-40 available for free delivery from Walmart for $22/jug. 0w-40 is not only thinner on cold starts but also thicker at operating temp than the 5w-40. Iron in oil made a significant drop with that change in oil. With such easy and cheap availability I don’t understand the need to more expensive reinvent the wheel.

I also laugh at thinking 100k-200k proves an oil or OCI is sufficient. An air cooled VW with no oil filter can easily 100k to 200k. Let’s see the engine at 500k or more, which my family has a looonnggg history of. Not all oils are created the same. A3 oils should be used in M and N engines, especially with the M54 ring issues; I don’t run nor care about LL01. MB 229 is more stringent and Castrol 0w-40 has it.

As always, YMMV. Oil won’t rebuild an engine damaged from a previous life. Operation and driving style are a form of maintenance, and affect OCI and oil type as well. Oil has a trickle down and affects VANOS operation, solenoid function, and gasket longevity as well.


Via the interwebs
 

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where da clutch at ?
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been wrenching for 36 years, I follow the same mantra, "change often". The Porsche scene in the UK, we change every 3k miles, I've done oil changes on cars owned for 5+ years with over 100k on the clock, I've always had longevity and no issues, no car engine has ever gone bang on me or failed. I always use what was recommended regarding weight (makes may differ) on occasion a top-up may be a different weight and or brand. I've never had an issue with any car I've owned, old, new, POS or luxury.

The 1'er, as already said, religiously I used BMW branded whatever BMW parts said I needed, along with BMW branded oil filter, took that car for 158k personal millage, not a problem in sight, not a vanos, issue ever, oil changed, summer, winter and mid year oil filter. Every month I do a maintenance check, all fluids and tires, that car was babied, the new owner will be a lucky SOB, over 7k in receipts, all warranty work and other by BMW, when I strayed from BMW, I paid for it big time.

German engineering is the bomb, it costs, but you will get a bullet proof engine, 91 944s2, 12 128, 20 230 and 2 mercs
 

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When I owned my E92, I was a big fan of Rhino Ramps. They easily got under the front bumper of the E92 and make oil changes super easy. In terms of oil weight, the entire 10 years I owned it I used Mobil 1 0w-40 which at the time had BMW LL-01 certification. As I understand it no longer does, but I had no issues running that weight in the Northeast year round. I know there are oils like the Liqui-Moly which are 5w-30 and have LL-01. I think as long as you go with an LL-01 certified oil, you'll be fine. Oil changes on the N52 are a piece of cake given the easy drain plug access and the oil filter in the engine bay. I used to be able to do it in less than 30 minutes start to finish in my own garage.
 

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where da clutch at ?
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What I like most about this board, is some random 1 post wonder nutter (sorry only joking) comes on with a question, and everyone jumps on board.
We argue, banter between ourselves but the OP disappears hahahahhahaha
I do notice that the OP has not replied to a single post on his subject LOL

TO the OP, I think this answers your questions: YOUR oil is used by a lot in the BMW community, so have at it

 

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I also laugh at thinking 100k-200k proves an oil or OCI is sufficient. An air cooled VW with no oil filter can easily 100k to 200k. Let’s see the engine at 500k or more, which my family has a looonnggg history of.
Unfortunately I live in the rust belt so none of my former cars could last that long. Either rust or accidents will claim them long before. But no matter what makes my cars by the end of my ownership, no oil related failures.
 

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I live in upstate NY. My 183k mile BMW is rust free despite being a winter beater and ocean beach driver. Salt shouldn’t be a limiting factor.


Via the interwebs
 
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