BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
21 - 40 of 199 Posts

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi there, just wanted to drop a note thanking you for the intructions and pictures to replace the blower resistor. I wasn't sure I wanted to do this myself but your pictures gave me the courage to do it. I just replace mine for a 2002 325i. I payed $127 for the part and 2 hours of work. For those out there who is looking for tips, you need a good light b/c it is pretty dark in that area. There is not alot of room to fit your body to work on this so I pushed the chair back, sat reverse on the chair and slid myself down under the glove box. I did my in two stages with a 1/2 break in between, 1. teardown until I am able to see the FSU. 2. Remove and install.
Congrats! Good tips. The only thing is - $127?:yikes:From dealership that must be? My price was $59...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Chodan - eEurope Parts had it for around $59 with shipping included (FedEx) which was like a 2-3 day turnaround. I got it from there and plan to try this job later today or tomorrow.

Alex - I am giving this a shot and thanks for the assistance/DIY details above. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
i think my blower resistor needs replacement too.

the air shuts off even with the a/c compressor is running.
playing with the fan speed doesnt do anything.
i did a "reset" by placing the ignition key all the way to pos 2 and then back, and somehow it finally worked.
this happened twice already.
im afraid time will come that the blower might not even work anymore.

with the heat and humidity here in my place, driving without the air conditioning will literally melt me.

thanks to starless for the DIY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
My story - The climate control in my 2000 328i started acting up about 3 weeks ago. As any of you know that it has happened to, it is extremely annoying especially in the middle of summer. A brief google search confirmed that blower motor resistor was indeed the problem. I read some of the DIYs on how to replace it, but I am really bad at these sorts of things, so I didn't think I could handle the repair. It seems that in a 5 series this is a much easier procedure. So I contacted some local places to inquire about replacement cost. An independant BMW mechanic wanted $260 to do the repair, and dealer wanted $400+. So, was about to schedule an appointment when I found this thread. The pictures are so much clearer than the other DIY that I found, and it inspired me to give it a try. Ordered the part from Eeuroparts as OP suggested. Part arrived in 2-3 days. Figured I would get started tonight and see how far I could get. Bottom line - I was able to complete the entire repair in about 45 minutes. THANK YOU OP!!! Again, if I can do it, it can be done by almost anyone. The 2 parts I had a bit of trouble with were 1) Removing the floorboard trim piece - hard to get the final clip off - had to push really hard 2) Getting the FSU out of the socket - it was really hard to get it unclipped, but once I did I was able to wiggle it out - it was much easier to get the new one in.

A few of my own thoughts:
1) My FSU did have 2 screws in it, despite many reports that the factory doesn't put the screws in. Odd, but it wasn't hard to remove them.
2) A magnetized T20 definitely helps
3) I was able to kneel on the ground outside the car looking in to do the replacement - didn't seem too hard to do it that way
4) My best tip - I used an adjustable headlight to see what I was doing rather than a flashlight. It made it really easy to see what I was doing.

Many thanks OP!
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
FWIW, we've been trying to find which FSR 'brands' are the reliable ones over in this FSR/FSU autopsy thread in the E39 forums ...

So far, we "think" the only reliable FSR is Sitronic/Bosch ... but time will tell of the others ...
Recommended:
- Sitronic/Bosch

Not recommended:
- GKR
- Behr
- Valeo,
- Siemens

Certainly not recommended:
- Meyle
- Hella
- Uro
- Denso
- Power Pro

Let's all pitch in to report the bad ones (e.g., GKR), so we can understand the good ones.
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
^ I'm not sure all this applies to E46. BMW FSU part numbers lead to 2 brands - Behr and Meyle. The part has been updated many times and the final version of Behr (0365 part number) seems to be problem free.
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
^ I'm not sure all this applies to E46. BMW FSU part numbers lead to 2 brands - Behr and Meyle. The part has been updated many times and the final version of Behr (0365 part number) seems to be problem free.
FWIW, I understand. The electronics may be different. However, the symptoms are the same, the solution is the same, and even the brands are the same ... so I'll wager there's more similarity than differences.

So far, we're staying away from anything with GKR stamped on it, either in the metal or on the sticker. If it says Behr, you have to be careful as it also says GKR and BMW. Some even have FOUR brands listed.

So, it's confusing at best - but that's why we're all working together to identify which FSR brands to avoid in that thread where we took 'em apart.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
It took me 4 hours (including going to get the replacement part) and a lot of frustrating moments and feelings of claustrophobia, but with my wife's help (her hands were small enough to push back the clip and remove the FSU (blower motor resistor).

Then we were off to BMW for the part: $134.00 ( I didn't want to wait to fix it)
The reassembly was a little tricky and only took about 1/2 hour and we were off to the car wash.

I did manage to break both the clips off the SDU harness, so be careful not to remove the harness until the FSU is out. Even with the broken clips the unit connected snugly.

Also, it was tricky getting the heater duct out (I do not see how you can do this job otherwise) and back in, but take your time you will figure it out. Pull back gently on the leather trim till it pops loud, but no more. You will not do any damage you can see. You have to work the heater duct out from the back to the front (use a light to see).

Drink lots of water and take several breaks. Once you do this once it will be a piece of cake the next time. I was moving nicely until I had to deal with the heater duct removal. Take your time here....

It helps if someone can hold a flashlight and hand you tools as you go. You will be working in a very tight space, so be prepared. My feet were dangling over the reclined front seat and out of the open back passenger door.

Thanks everyone for the threads. I couldn't have attempted this without you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Other Tools to Make This Job Easier

I strongly recommend anyone replacing the FSU on an E46 buy the following:

Craftsman Specialty Tool Set 4717

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904717000P?prdNo=13

That set contains a magnet on an telescoping handle that is perfect for removing the 4 Torx screws so they don't drop into a black hole, never to return. The kit also includes a Phillips/Torx screw starter that made reinstalling the Torx screws a breeze. I also used the bent end of the scriber to help me release the clips on the FSU wire harness plug (although maybe I could have released the plug easier after sliding the FSU out).

If you don't already have Torx screwdrivers, Craftsman has an inexpensive set for about $10 but I recommend that you instead buy their better quality drivers.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...yword=torx+set&prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=L5

The handle gives a much better grip and the shank is much longer, which also was a help on this job. You can buy the set of 5 drivers for about $35 or just the T20 for about $7.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Vents blowing cold air (drivers side) and warrm air on the passenger side

After all the work I did yesterday replacing the FSU, I am frustrated today....the vents on the right drivers side are blowing cold air, the vents on passenger side are blowing warm air...did I do something wrong? Did I disconnect or not reconnect something? Please advise....
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
After all the work I did yesterday replacing the FSU, I am frustrated today....the vents on the right drivers side are blowing cold air, the vents on passenger side are blowing warm air...did I do something wrong? Did I disconnect or not reconnect something? Please advise....
You did nothing wrong. It's a classical bmw symptom of low/leaking AC refrigerant. I'd go to an indy shop and have them evacuate the system and refill it with the correct amount of refrigerant. In many cases just this solves the problem but if you have a persistent leak then it will need to get fixed too. Keep us updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Boy am I relieved

Alex, I called BMW; they were kind enough to give me the shop foreman after hours. He said I should add freon first. Went to Auto Zone and purchased the can with the gauge etc for about 27.00.

The gauge read in the blue zone, but I added more till it was just shy of the yellow area. What do you know...I drove the car home and noticed that the air was getting colder on the passenger side as well.

I suspect I may have a slow leak though and will keep an eye on it.

:thumbup:Thanks Alex. You were right on....Boy am I relieved... I love this forum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...
Jen, welcome to the forum and congratulations on the first repair!

My understanding (although I'm not 100% sure) is that the function of that motor with the rod is to switch between the outside airflow and recirculation of air withing the cabin. If my understanding is correct than this system will not work properly with the rod disconnected. I use this function occasionally and could definitely live without it. But I also like everything to work 100% in my car, so it's up to you how important this is :)
 

·
catso
Joined
·
3,163 Posts
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...
Now that you've entered the world of car repairs, you have learned that it's important to not create a new problem when you're repairing an old one. :eek: So get back in there and fix it right. In the future when you see a post about FSU's or outside air control motors you'll qualify as our new resident expert. :rolleyes: Keep up the good work! :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
When you receive it, let us know where it was manufactured. Most of the Behr parts used to be made in Germany, now some of the stuff is made in China. :mad:
He ordered the same part # from the same web site as I did. And mine IS made in Germany. Everything has been good so far.
 
21 - 40 of 199 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top