BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
41 - 60 of 199 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
I read somewhere where a person had this problem and simply replaced (I think by replaced he meant pulled out and put back in) fuse 50 and that solved his problems. I have a fluctuating fan speed sometimes when I turn the unit on then it evens out. I'm trying it to see if it works but has anyone heard of this?

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-series-e46-e90/how-replace-final-stage-resistor-46839.html
Although I got the new FSU, I figured I'd give the "fuse pull" approach a try first to see if it resets things. Certainly easier to do and worht the try. The blower has been behaving erradically: Speeds don't vary, but blower just turns off and on at the oddest times. Anyway, it's my wife's car (LOL as long as she doesn't see this).
 

·
mirakid
Joined
·
5 Posts
FSU Blower Motor Resistor Pack

Excellant instructions & pictures, followed everything to the T, very informative, you did not miss anything, it took me about 90 minutes. I had to pause from time to time (I have a bad back ) Thanks Again, greatly appreciate it.
It was my turn to replace the FSU (blower motor resistor). I just got tired of the pulsating pattern of the blower and its shutting off on its own accord. It is especially frustrating in the 100F degrees St. Louis weather. I ordered the part through one of my favorite sites: www.eeuroparts.com that has great prices and both OE and aftermarket parts. The FSU is made by Behr (OEM). The cost was $59.99 shipped. It took an hour to install and it was a pain in the neck (literally) due to its location under the dash. If you have problems with your back/neck/shoulders I'd recommend to delegate this repair to a shop technician (hopefully without these problems). You have to spend some time in the area below the glove box on your back and side with your legs on the passenger seat. There is simply no other way.

The DIY is in the pictures. Sorry if I missed something. But that's just pretty much the way I did it. I'll just mention it here one more time that I did not find it necessary to remove the air duct and control motor to get to the resistor like some other diys suggest. Of course it will make things a little easier but will take more time. And I did not want to spend more time on the 95F degrees evening sweating in the footwell of the car. So here is the pictorial guide:





















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hey guys. newbie here.
I'm about to order this part from eEuroparts but I wanted to know....

IHKA is on in any situation (pre-ignition/ignition) but there is no air coming out at all... would this be the culprit?

I had disconnected the IHKA because I was running some cables through there for a headunit. I connected the IHKA back up and it would light up, but there was no air coming out into the cabin.

might this be the reason why it's not turning on? could I have shorted it and not even realize it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
E36 1995 fsu

Hello All,
This is a great forum, thanks so much.
Now...I know the FSU issue has been batted around quite a bit, but here is my issue.
My ac blows cold-..okay cold-ish, except on the driver defrost and floor vents. No matter what the setting is-the air there is hot. Quite hot. Not good in Texas. The other thing is-when I turn the car off I hear a kind of buzz that seems to emanate from behind and to the left of the glove box. Is there where the FSU is on my car? And could that be causing my ac problems? The battery also drains after a couple of days without driving.

Lots more bothersome things going on with this car, but those are the major ones.
The car has 230k miles and has been an absolutely fabulous car for me, but not having proper ac is a drag. I can repair this myself as long as I know where to look for the part. It's not under the passenger beneath the glovebox--at least not that I can see (I removed the cover-which in this case, has two screws-you don't just yank it off).

Help is greatly appreciated.
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Hello All,
This is a great forum, thanks so much.
Now...I know the FSU issue has been batted around quite a bit, but here is my issue.
My ac blows cold-..okay cold-ish, except on the driver defrost and floor vents. No matter what the setting is-the air there is hot. Quite hot. Not good in Texas. The other thing is-when I turn the car off I hear a kind of buzz that seems to emanate from behind and to the left of the glove box. Is there where the FSU is on my car? And could that be causing my ac problems? The battery also drains after a couple of days without driving.

Lots more bothersome things going on with this car, but those are the major ones.
The car has 230k miles and has been an absolutely fabulous car for me, but not having proper ac is a drag. I can repair this myself as long as I know where to look for the part. It's not under the passenger beneath the glovebox--at least not that I can see (I removed the cover-which in this case, has two screws-you don't just yank it off).

Help is greatly appreciated.
This diy is for E46 cars only. I'm not sure if E36 FSU is similar or not but if you post in the E36 section of the forum I'm sure you'll get better help there. Here is the link:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=97

Welcome to bimmerfest! :)
 

·
Seek to understand,^Value
Joined
·
25,199 Posts
This diy is for E46 cars only.
And, while we're at it, here are the DIYs for the E39 from the bestlinks thread.

- FAN CONTROL: poorly ventilated fan-control (FSU/FSR) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) ... Autopsy (1) (2) (3) (4)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
On my 2001 M3 convertible..

I am stuck in the middle of this DIY. Before I can have access to the FSU itself, the motor bracket is in the way where I'm having trouble getting out of the way. The lower screw was easily visible and is now removed, now the other screw?? where can I find it.. I've looked around and there nothing visible. Mind you the air duct is still intact since it doesn't seem to pull out easy. Please help!!
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
On my 2001 M3 convertible..

I am stuck in the middle of this DIY. Before I can have access to the FSU itself, the motor bracket is in the way where I'm having trouble getting out of the way. The lower screw was easily visible and is now removed, now the other screw?? where can I find it.. I've looked around and there nothing visible. Mind you the air duct is still intact since it doesn't seem to pull out easy. Please help!!
The arrow in one of my pictures points to its location. It's not easily visible but can be reached with a torx screwdriver. Just stick a torx driver there and you'll feel it. I took me a good 5-7 minutes to remove that screw, so be patient...
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
I personally have no problem of buying parts from eBay. If you look at one of the links above, the part is Behr brand. So there is no question about the part. After I get the original part, the rest is not important to me. I believe the big sellers still have big margins on the parts although they sell less than BMW dealers. I think eBay is the main selling channel for the companies/individuals who have no access to big sellers.
Kubi, I also do not mind ebay for some purchases at all. If this is Behr and made in Germany that *should* be fine. The problem with FSUs is that even *good* resistors by reputable German brands still fail. It's important to go with the latest updated and improved version and part number issued by BMW. The one that I and other people used seems to be the latest improved part number and so far so good. If you ordered that ebay resistor just keep us updated how it works out for you. This is how we learn on this forum, mainly from experience of other people. If it fails, let us know and if it lasts a long time let us know too.

Update. I looked closer at those ebay resistors:

The part # of the ebay one ends in 3204. I've seen those made by Meyle too. They have 39 heat fins. It's an updated part number but might not fit all E46 properly and some have been known to fail shortly after installation
The part # I recommend ends in 0365. It's an updated part # too (latest I believe), has 58 heat fins and fits all E46 properly. Note, these resistors fail because of overheating. So more heat fins = better ability to dissipate heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Thanks so much for that detailed DIY! My blower motor gave me only one warning before it stopped working altogether. I found my part at AutohausAZ.com for $70...followed your steps...and now I'm back in business! It's a little tricky contorting yourself into position and trying to get a light on things, but if you take an occasional break to stretch out...you will get it done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Haven't noticed any fluctuating fans speeds (unless it's on auto) but my ac is not blowing cold even after a fresh charge. Cool at best.

Could the fsu still be contributing to this even if the blower seems to be functioning normally?

My local mechanic thinks I may have an oil lock in the dryer or a jammed up expansion valve. I'm not sold on any of it. Input would be appreciated.

Great site btw.
 

·
*^^^^^^^^*
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Haven't noticed any fluctuating fans speeds (unless it's on auto) but my ac is not blowing cold even after a fresh charge. Cool at best.

Could the fsu still be contributing to this even if the blower seems to be functioning normally?

My local mechanic thinks I may have an oil lock in the dryer or a jammed up expansion valve. I'm not sold on any of it. Input would be appreciated.

Great site btw.
Fsu has nothing to do with cold/hot air just the blower motor speed (pulsating, not working at all, etc). You need to have your ac system diagnosed. If you get a constant stream of air, your fsu is fine but you might have a leak somewhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Incase anyone is still receiving thread updates, I had the same issue, 325 blowers just cut out one day, abruptly.

I followed DIY and installed the new FSU. Checked it and system is working fine.

I'm currently stuck though with reassemble. I'm really struggling with getting the Control Motor to reallign with the torx screws. As if almost the wires seem to be holding it up, I'm pretty sure at this point I'm going to give up completely on the top one, any suggestions on bottom one? Anyone else get held up at this point?

Besides that AWESOME DIY that even my Indy said "take it to a dealer" lol.

- hudock
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
*Update!! Got it. Didn't bother with top screw but finally got bottom to go in once i pressed on the wire hard enough to make it lay flat against the motor.

Everything works great, awesome DIY! Also, I'm a pretty big guy and it wasn't that bad, cramped for sure, my shoulders are a tad bit sore. Something that helped too was an Android Incredible, camcorder mode with flash, allowed me to easily see the screw up top!

Thanks again!
 
41 - 60 of 199 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top