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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK,

We have quite a few hood cable getting stuck recently. there are roughly 2-4 cases a month. So I put together this list of different DIYs for future reference:

The anatomy of the Hood Cable for E39:
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/366665/



The broken part inside the cabin:
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/366665/

The Cables at the Front the Engine. Use this elegant EASY E36 DIY! Basically:
1. Three (3) Torx screws holding the latches.
Note for E36, the Fan Shroud is lifted to expose the 3rd screw. For E39, no need to lift the Fan Shroud.
2. Instead of removing the entire nose panel, you can simply grab it near the latches and GENTLY bend it up:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=668742



Hope this helps.
 

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Thebizzy.com
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Bro can you move to ATL and be my personal mechanic?
 

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Nah cn90 come to taxachusetts. U'll be clicking your heels together chanting there's no place like home, there's no place like home. Lol
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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Seek to understand,^Value
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For the cross-linked record, this was opened up today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2001 5251 Hood Latch Stuck

Hood is stuck, I pulled release lever in vehicle and hood will not release. Tried having someone push down and manipulate hood while pulling release.
Disassembled release lever on interior kick panel and used pliers to pull cable...I think if finally snapped.
Reached in from the kidney grill and pulled on cable, left passenger side of hood released...nice.

My problem is the driver side will still not release. ... I cannot access from the bottom of the car as once I removed the tire well cover to reach up and pull cable for right side.......the air box is in the way and not removable from below...no way to reach the cable for right side from under the vehicle.

Any ideas how to get to that right side cable on this model to release that latch?
These links were assembled in the bestlinks to help that user:

- How to maintain (1) and repair your hood release bowden cable (1) (2) (3) & how to replace the hood cable the easy way (1) & how to open the hood when the hood cable snaps (1) (2) & how to open the hood manually when you have a dead 12v car battery (1) [or trunk (1) (2)].

Hopefully the user will provide an update for everyone to benefit from.
 

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just replaced my hood release cable I don't know after doing it how guys get up to $300+ to do that but it was cake! Next is the windshield washer motor and grommet
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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Next is the windshield washer motor and grommet
When you do 'that' job ... please post over here to let me know what was hard and what was easy ... 'cuz I still haven't gotten the courage up to try to fix mine!

- Pre-winter inspection of a user's windshield washer system (1)

 

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Freude am Fahren
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Bluebee, that's happened on every car I've filled up to the top, fwiw. I'm wondering if it's a breather or something.

Mind you, the cap has a label "4.6L" on it, and I can't put more than 3/4 gal in***8230; that doesn't add up
 

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CN,

I tried to reach the exposed part of the passenger side cable the same way as the driver side, reaching up through the grill opening. Not sure if I ever reached it. Tight fit. Do you have any tips? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi KKlop,

Re cross-over cable (connecting R and L latches):

- The driver side is easy, reach under with flashlight, one will see the exposed part of the cable. Just smear a small amount of grease onto the exposed part of the cable once a year.
- The passenger side: you are correct, it is sealed shut, impossible to get to w/o dismantling some stuff.
What I do: once a year, I spray some silicone lubricant down the latch hole, hopefully some lubricant will get to the cable. With the hood up, I operate the cabin lever a few times to spread the lubricant.

So far so good, no issues (yet).
 

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Thanks, CN! Yes, I used a mirror and flashlight to grease the drivers side, thanks to your post, and greased inside the cabin. Had not done either before. I have been spraying lithium grease down both holes for years, which always loosened the mechanisms up. This is the first year I had to pull the grill to manually open the passenger side. Now it's working fine. I'm only surmising, but I think the driver side is the critical one, which, thanks to your write up, is good to go.
 

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I'm planning on replacing the hood cables when when weather gets warmer and was wondering should I lubricate the new cables before installing? If I should, what should I use to lubricate them? The issue with lubricating cables is that it attracts dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It doesn't matter if it is a bicycle brake cable or E39 hood cable, the principle is the same.
Some grease is better than nothing. However, grease attracts dirt.

I usually do this:
- Once a year, around April or May when all the road salt has gone, I clean the exposed ends of the cable with brake cleaner (or something similar).
- Wipe it clean.
- Apply fresh grease.
 

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This seemed like a good thread to continue with this topic.

My issue is the cable that goes from the handle in the cabin to the first connection joint next to the driver's inner front fender.

I called myself searching but couldn't find anything about this cable as most issues seem to be with the cables under the hood.

Does anyone have a clear DIY on this cable replacement, or at least explain a clean way to remove the inner kick panel where the handle is located?

Thanks,

Eric
 

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This seemed like a good thread to continue with this topic.

My issue is the cable that goes from the handle in the cabin to the first connection joint next to the driver's inner front fender.

I called myself searching but couldn't find anything about this cable as most issues seem to be with the cables under the hood.

Does anyone have a clear DIY on this cable replacement, or at least explain a clean way to remove the inner kick panel where the handle is located?

Thanks,

Eric
See post #2 in this thread, some info but no real detail http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=975026&highlight=hood+cable
 

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Thanks, that is helpful. At least it points me in the right direction of needing to remove the dead pedal. I'll post up any comments I have after I, hopefully, successfully complete this.

Thanks again,

Eric
 

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Thanks, that is helpful. At least it points me in the right direction of needing to remove the dead pedal. I'll post up any comments I have after I, hopefully, successfully complete this.

Thanks again,

Eric
Good luck Eric....I sort of recall reading about the dead pedal, etc. removal of stuff in this area long ago and it's kind of an akward sort of 'twist' or the like one has to apply to get the thing out...and back in.

Bill
 
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