:rofl: My rear two window regulators have been broken for at least a year. I first used paper wedges to keep the windows up. That didn't work. Then I used erasers wedges to try to hold up the windows, that didn't really work. Finally it dawned upon me to try using towel hooks with suction cups. That worked pretty well! I have two big suction cups holding up the back windows. Your idea of using two per window is better. Using only one, the window will drag down eventually, but I think two will hold the window in place better and for longer periods of time.Here's a link to the best pic I could find:
However, I actually used 2 small, clear suction cups. One on the left, one on the right. It works so well, the in laws decided to just leave it that way since they never use the rear windows.
Your towel rack suction cup story was interesting. Apparently a lot of us wait for that round tuit before we fix the rear window regulators.My rear two window regulators have been broken for at least a year.
pleiades, I'm glad you pointed this out as this was exactly what I thought the instructions were telling me (as a newbie) to do. Am I to put the wrench between the positive and negative terminal so they 'connect'? That doesn't sound right to me. Exactly what does #3 mean? Please explain in newbie/laymen language. Thanks!BB, somewhat off-topic....
In #3, you say "Cross connect the negative & positive terminals with a wrench & let sit for at least 10 min."
I always wonder why folks here on the Fest recommend doing this. (My incredulity is probably rooted in ignorance.) Also, I'd be worried that a few newbies reading this might then try to connect a tool between the BATTERY terminals, so maybe an emphasis on the unconnected cables might be advisable here (with the caution not to mistakenly place a conductive object between the two battery terminals).
If you are worried about residual charge in capacitors or some other electrical parts in the car, wouldn't turning on the headlights or something that draws significant current get rid of it (assuming there really is any residual charge even with battery disconnected)? Is there anything about the airbag electricals that really demands this step?
I hope your interview went well.
I do not know if it does anything useful.Exactly what does #3 mean? Please explain in newbie/laymen language.
That's a great idea to eliminate wind noise from the windows; we should add this to the wind-noise diagnostic threads.I have also used this trick once to identify where a wind noise was coming from on the hwy
That is why I haven't bought the parts yet. I haven't done enough research yet to tackle the job. Since it's 57 degrees today, maybe I should tackle it now.All I had to do was put the glass back on the rack
That's good advice. I will have to research the threads for the right sealant. I know they're all over the place (which makes it hard since there is so much data).Just make sure you seal back your vapor barriers good or you will have a koi pond.
Now that it's 70 degrees outside, I decided my round tuit was free, and I followed the 30 composite panel removal steps listed in post #25 above.Looks like there are three or four components of the task:
- Figure out how to remove the panels to access the regulator (done)
- Figure out what's wrong (regulator, or whatever)
- Figure which replacement regulator or kit to buy