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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed brake fluid yesterday. Pretty easy job, but also messy and need care lest brake fluid touch body paint.:thumbup:

But I haven't been able to take off the driver-side rear wheel:dunno:. I took out the lug bolts without problem, but the wheel wouldn't budge, no matter how I shook, kicked and hammered. Anyone has good suggestions? I made do with bleeding the brake without removing it yesterday, but would like to be able to remove it next time around.

Also, I jacked up the rear by jacking at the adjacent area directly in front of the rear jackstand points and then put jackstands in position. Worked fine for me. I didn't feel comfortable using the diff. Maybe I was over-cautious. Just FYI.
 

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... then clean the mating surfaces on hub and wheel with a wire brush, and smear some anti-seize compound on the hub and bolt threads.
 

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Ditto both comments above...and I've also been able to free the wheel by loosening the lug bolts a little (enough for a small bit of movement but not enough to lose the wheel if you drive the car gently)...then lowering the car and backing down the drive & over the curb.

I've also been able to free the wheel by loosening the lug bolts a little...then raising the car then lowering it when I then shake/jiggle the car (using it's almost 2 tons) as the ballast to free the wheel.

Using the vehicle's weight is much easier and effective than trying to kick, hit, slug the wheel by hand or foot etc. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all! I will learn to leverage the weight of the car itself next time.
 

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... then clean the mating surfaces on hub and wheel with a wire brush, and smear some anti-seize compound on the hub and bolt threads.
Most manufacturers don't recommend anti-sieze on lug bolt threads. Lug bolt torque specifications are for dry threads. Issue is, if you put anti-sieze on the threads and torque to spec, there could "possibly" be too much tension in the lug bolt.

Definitely put anti-sieze on the hub.

Just my $0.02
 
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