[SunglassesGuy]

BTW - ISTA has a steering recalibration procedure that is different from re-initializing the angle sensor. I accidently ran into it and ran it when I meant to recalibrate the AS. Its a much longer procedure, forget exactly what its called, but its in the same area. Maybe that would help with your steering being off 1 or 2 degrees.


EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see the other posts. Yeah, just saw Herb post #29. that is the one!

 

[SunglassesGuy]

Thx HerbP!
I thought you could just turn on the Temperature to the max and fan to the min but that didn’t stop the air from entering the system… anyway I will text that tomorrow

Thats all I've ever done, leaving the expansion cap off so the system can allow any air to escape. run it to operating temp, and then check coolant level next day after engine cools off. BTW - Love that Google Lens Translator, didn't know it existed.

If getting coolant level correct doesnt help with cooling, you may want to check between radiator and a/c condenser. lots of road debris builds up in there. thought mine was squeaky clean, then lifted the radiator up a bit to clear what I could, it kept coming, finally just pulled the radiator out. wow, lots of junk in there, and I wasn't having cooling issues. feels good to have it all out!

 

[Lonehand]

Thanks Jim!

Well, I am back again with that big yellow @ !(Cap A) on the 5th starts and now it's there every time, along with code CE94 and CE95 which I posted on #28... I am lost and googling these sensors...

 

[HerbP]

Thanks HerbP! Had a 25mile run yesterday, so far so good.... but something else, I felt like my engine is hotter than before (no code yet), I also had this coolant low light flash once when I start the car, but once I add coolant into the expansion tank, it's would burst through the tank when engine is hot, you think there is bubble in the coolant system?

Well I did more research and went to Harbor freight picked up a coolant refill system, spent couple of hours today and did a complete coolant flush, now that finger crossed…

Happy 4th!

What do you mean by burst thru the tank? This sounds like a cracked expansion tank, it will act like a volcano when this happens.

 

[HerbP]

Thanks Jim!

Well, I am back again with that big yellow @ !(Cap A) on the 5th starts and now it's there every time, along with code CE94 and CE95 which I posted on #28... I am lost and googling these sensors...

I have to ask the question, did you center the clock spring after cleaning the steering sensor? It will only take 2 turns each way, or it will tear the strip loose. Once this happens, the steering will not read properly. The cumulative steering & the drivers steering angles must be very close, within a few degrees. Are you getting any F-Can faults, as this is what communicates the active steering with the DSC & SGM modules. You usually get an airbag fault at this point. Print out an operations report so we can see what active faults you have, & what is now reporting ok. Print it to a pdf file, then attach.

 

[Lonehand]

What do you mean by burst thru the tank? This sounds like a cracked expansion tank, it will act like a volcano when this happens.

Here is what I meant

It’s splashed out but no cracks cuz it’s not leaking, I think when coolant reach certain pressure the expansion tank cap would release as a safety valve, notice on my hood?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lonehand]

I have to ask the question, did you center the clock spring after cleaning the steering sensor? It will only take 2 turns each way, or it will tear the strip loose. Once this happens, the steering will not read properly. The cumulative steering & the drivers steering angles must be very close, within a few degrees. Are you getting any F-Can faults, as this is what communicates the active steering with the DSC & SGM modules. You usually get an airbag fault at this point. Print out an operations report so we can see what active faults you have, & what is now reporting ok. Print it to a pdf file, then attach.

Yes I am fully aware clock spring that say if you have total 5 turns from end to end and you have to put it back 2 1/2 to center it, and yes I align it with the mark, I am new to car DIY but I was an automation engineer for 8 years I printed the report but it’s in my laptop so will post later


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lonehand]

Here is the screenshot of the report

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SunglassesGuy]

It should be really easy to bleed your coolant system.

1. Take expansion cap off
2. turn on heater and fan
3. run engine til it comes to temp
4. you will see the water cycling thru the reservoir little holes near top - indicating your water pump and thermostat are working
5. once you see this, let it run another 5 min or so

if you've done all this, it should be bled. that leaves a problem near that little mini explosion you had, keep your eyes and body protected!! its hard to tell by the photo, its far out, but it appear it is from the cap. maybe you need a new cap? maybe it came out of that top hose and it just looks like it came from the cap. these hoses have little o-rings in them. i just replaced all the cooling hoses, and that top reservoir hose leaked for a few weeks until it has sealed. they are finicky. Or, maybe you have a micro-crack you haven't discovered yet. I had one, at the bottom, and it was difficult to locate. just appeared out of nowhere one day, long ago.

 

[gadgets4u]

I agree with Jim, most probably a micro crack. If there is a chance its the original one, just replace it as preventive maintenance.

 

[HerbP]

Here is what I meant

It’s splashed out but no cracks cuz it’s not leaking, I think when coolant reach certain pressure the expansion tank cap would release as a safety valve, notice on my hood?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the cap was on when this happened, I would still suspect a crack in the tank. There is a overflow on the tank that should have drained out the bottom. Has the engine ever run hot lately?

 

[HerbP]

Here is the screenshot of the report

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your screenshot is not showing a existing fault on the DSC, just a recent fault that has cleared. I would rerun the Active Steering initialization again to see if the fault will clear on the dash. You need to get the car above 35 mph for so long before it will initialize. If it says the initialization did not pass, just run it again, then drive it. Go to the Wheel speed sensors in the DSC & see if they are reading the same speed. If one of the wheel speed sensors is dirty or bad causing it not to read properly, the Active steering will not initialize. The DSC & AL module must not have any current faults.

As far as the ops report, just print it to a pdf file, then post it. This way we can see what was changed on the car, & what is still currently going on. The report shows a current & past history.

 

[Lonehand]

It should be really easy to bleed your coolant system. 1. Take expansion cap off 2. turn on heater and fan 3. run engine til it comes to temp 4. you will see the water cycling thru the reservoir little holes near top - indicating your water pump and thermostat are working 5. once you see this, let it run another 5 min or so if you've done all this, it should be bled. that leaves a problem near that little mini explosion you had, keep your eyes and body protected!! its hard to tell by the photo, its far out, but it appear it is from the cap. maybe you need a new cap? maybe it came out of that top hose and it just looks like it came from the cap. these hoses have little o-rings in them. i just replaced all the cooling hoses, and that top reservoir hose leaked for a few weeks until it has sealed. they are finicky. Or, maybe you have a micro-crack you haven't discovered yet. I had one, at the bottom, and it was difficult to locate. just appeared out of nowhere one day, long ago.

Thanks Jim and gadgets4u! I know all this but this is just info on the Internet ,if you look at the manual ,you need to do what I did ,that is, vacuum the coding system before you refill . Go to this section

that’s why I think dealer charges $360 (maybe more these days) to do it. So far, The engine seems to be running at normal temperature again, so fingers crossed

 

[Lonehand]

Your screenshot is not showing a existing fault on the DSC, just a recent fault that has cleared. I would rerun the Active Steering initialization again to see if the fault will clear on the dash. You need to get the car above 35 mph for so long before it will initialize. If it says the initialization did not pass, just run it again, then drive it. Go to the Wheel speed sensors in the DSC & see if they are reading the same speed. If one of the wheel speed sensors is dirty or bad causing it not to read properly, the Active steering will not initialize. The DSC & AL module must not have any current faults.

As far as the ops report, just print it to a pdf file, then post it. This way we can see what was changed on the car, & what is still currently going on. The report shows a current & past history.

Thanks HerbP!

yeah, I will do what you said cuz yesterday, I took the car out for a 20 mile errand and once I started it, I got that steering angle senor like this one poped up again, but when I on my way back, all errors disappeared...

One more strange thing with Active Steering initialization, I never succeeded with ISTA, but with INPA (I have both on the same dedicated laptop), I can do it.. not sure what's going on but I will try to do it again and print the full report (I am not hiding the report, just only 3 pages without much useful into except the section my screenshot showed)

 

[SunglassesGuy]

Ya, know about the BMW cooling bleed procedure, but never needed it. Herb is right on the steering angle, I'm often disconnecting my battery for work and the SA is finicky. When ever you disconnect battery, the SA light is going to come on. Now I just reset it, and it goes away. Then it comes back, and I just drive for a few weeks until it is happy and goes away. (I don't drive that much, thus a few weeks) I've got a 2004 545 and 2009 M6, both behave this way.

 

[HerbP]

Here is the screenshot of the report

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your screenshot is not showing a existing fault on the DSC, just a recent fault that has cleared. I would rerun the Active Steering initialization again to see if the fault will clear on the dash. You need to get the car above 35 mph for so long before it will initialize. If it says the initialization did not pass, just run it again, then drive it. Go to the Wheel speed sensors in the DSC & see if they are reading the same speed. If one of the wheel speed sensors is dirty or bad causing it not to read properly, the Active steering will not initialize. The DSC & AL module must not have any current faults.

As far as the ops report, just print it to a pdf file, then post it. This way we can see what was changed on the car, & what is still currently going on. The report shows a current & past history.

Thanks HerbP!

yeah, I will do what you said cuz yesterday, I took the car out for a 20 mile errand and once I started it, I got that steering angle senor like this one poped up again, but when I on my way back, all errors disappeared...

One more strange thing with Active Steering initialization, I never succeeded with ISTA, but with INPA (I have both on the same dedicated laptop), I can do it.. not sure what's going on but I will try to do it again and print the full report (I am not hiding the report, just only 3 pages without much useful into except the section my screenshot showed)

View attachment 1064546

The AS reset can fail one time, & pass the next time you run it. I have heard techs talk about it, strange that it happens. What is going on with your oil reading, I have never seen that before? You still need a new gas cap according to ISTA.

 

[Lonehand]

Your screenshot is not showing a existing fault on the DSC, just a recent fault that has cleared. I would rerun the Active Steering initialization again to see if the fault will clear on the dash. You need to get the car above 35 mph for so long before it will initialize. If it says the initialization did not pass, just run it again, then drive it. Go to the Wheel speed sensors in the DSC & see if they are reading the same speed. If one of the wheel speed sensors is dirty or bad causing it not to read properly, the Active steering will not initialize. The DSC & AL module must not have any current faults.

As far as the ops report, just print it to a pdf file, then post it. This way we can see what was changed on the car, & what is still currently going on. The report shows a current & past history.


The AS reset can fail one time, & pass the next time you run it. I have heard techs talk about it, strange that it happens. What is going on with your oil reading, I have never seen that before? You still need a new gas cap according to ISTA.

OK I just did a Active Steering initialization- with success, also reprint the operation report, see attached, any feedback is welcomed!

BTW, the AL pic in my last post wasn't mine, I just used it to show the symbol, so don't worry about my oil level
Thanks!

 

[HerbP]

You only printed the 1st page, nothing to look at? How are things looking now that the AL has finally initialized?

 

[Lonehand]

You only printed the 1st page, nothing to look at? How are things looking now that the AL has finally initialized?

Thanks HerbP!
That's all I have, if you look at the right bottom of the report, it says 1/1 page? maybe I didn't create the right report? will look into this later, but the issue remains, same

once I start driving, but I recall you want me to check dsc/abs sensors while driving over 35 miles/hr? ok, I will need my wife drive it and I can look at ISTA real time... will update

 

[HerbP]

You can go into ISTA & find the page, then just check to make sure all 4 wheels have the same speed. The car must be connected & in the DSC module to look at the settings. Also check to make sure the AL is reading properly & does not have a fault again?