[wc123wc]

Hello,

I have a 2003 530i that has a hard time when it's cold outside. Yesterday the temperature was about 16C (in Toronto), so it was below 20C for the first time in few months and the car started but there was no power. Eventually when I had stopped at a stop sign the car gave me errors and was about to shut down so I turned it off. Right away I started it and it started just find. No codes, no loss of power...nothing wrong, perfectly fine!

This is not the first time it has happened. I had cold start problems with it last winter, but the problem was always resolved by restarting the engine.

My question is this: what can cause cold start problems that can be resolved with a restart?

^The reason I am phrasing the question like this because there are a lot of things that can cause a cold start problem but don't get resolved with a restart. I am trying to narrow down the list by knowing that an immediate restart always resolved the problem!

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[GrannyApple]

So many things.

If you can get a hand on a code reader and scan the codes that do pop up that'll be helpful. It's it's a more capable reader the codes should be stored for a while.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Bimmerfest mobile app

 

[wc123wc]

When my car had a rough cold start last winter I restarted it and it was fine, but the engine icon came on so I scanned it and this is the code I got:

P1345 (according to Google it is: Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-Off)

I just don't know what to do with this info!

Two years ago when the same thing happened in the winter: rough cold start, engine icon came on, my mechanic scanned it and it was (I think; I don't remember the code) cylinder 2 O-sensor. My mechanic said to wait and see if it comes back.

fyi: I changed all spark plugs/coils three years ago (since then I have driven less than 100k).

Any ideas where to look?

So many things.

If you can get a hand on a code reader and scan the codes that do pop up that'll be helpful. It's it's a more capable reader the codes should be stored for a while.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Bimmerfest mobile app

 

[mattmar1]

the Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-Off is the reason it runs rough when cold. when shutting off and restarting, the error is cleared (but the code is stored) and it runs on its way. once the code sets with the engine running, the injector in the corresponding cylinder is turned off, as the engine is detecting a misfire, and may be dumping raw gas in to the cat.
i understand that this is a code from a coupla years ago. clear all codes, wait til it does it again and see what you get back codewise. if its the same (misfire with fuel cut off#2) id swap the plug and coil with another cylinder. clear codes, and see what happens next (same code or does the code follow the swap?)
then we can go from there.

 

[wc123wc]

Thank you! Will do!

the Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-Off is the reason it runs rough when cold. when shutting off and restarting, the error is cleared (but the code is stored) and it runs on its way. once the code sets with the engine running, the injector in the corresponding cylinder is turned off, as the engine is detecting a misfire, and may be dumping raw gas in to the cat.
i understand that this is a code from a coupla years ago. clear all codes, wait til it does it again and see what you get back codewise. if its the same (misfire with fuel cut off#2) id swap the plug and coil with another cylinder. clear codes, and see what happens next (same code or does the code follow the swap?)
then we can go from there.

 

[wc123wc]

Something similar happened this morning! Same scenario as last time!

I park underground (temp. 23C). In the morning I got in the car and started it and it ran fine. I drove the gym and parked outside (temp. 21C)

1.5hrs later I left the gym and got in the car--started fine. Soon I realized there's less power when I press on the gas. The RPM was 1,700 while driving at 70km/h, when I pressed on the gas it took the car 2-3 seconds to respond and reach RPM 2,000 and 80km/h! No vibration, no shake, no errors, no codes. However, the engine was nosier than usual when I pressed on the gas. I pulled into a parking lot, turned the car off and then turned it on and everything was fine! The gas throttle responded normally! At 70km the RPM was 1,700 when I pressed on the gas within a second the RPM jumped to over 2,000 (close to 2,500) and the car quickly reached 80km/h!!!

I don't know what's going on! I would love to diagnose what's wrong so I can fix it!

So twice in two weeks this happened! Starting in the morning is fine. I parked outside the gym, 1.5hrs later I start it and there's a loss of power at the low RPM end! No vibration, no error/code--just loss of power/throttle response!

Twice it was solved by me turning off the car and restarting it!

 

[Chedley]

I'd try to do some basic engine tune-up hygiene:

-- Clean or replace the intake air filter
-- clean the MAF, and the throttle body plates (front and back) with CRC
-- Inspect, clean or replace the spark plugs
-- Check, clean or replace the fuel pump and fuel filter
-- Run a scan for any stored error codes. Clear them and reset the adaptations

Then test again.

 

[edjack]

Does the ambient temp match the actual outside temp?

 

[mattmar1]

might give thought to checking fuel pressure at the injector rail. did you swap any plugs or coils?

 

[wc123wc]

Hi, do you think the CVV can cause this problem?

At 150k in 2009 a cold-weather CVV was installed on my car. Right now my car has 280k on it, so I am wondering if the CVV needs to be replaced. The reason I am suspecting the CVV because last 2 winters I worked close to home and my car never got really warmed up in the drive to work and from work. Since I live in Toronto, Canada it can get really cold in the winter time! Stuck in rush hour so didn't rev up, and worked only 4k from home! One day I noticed there was white mayo like substance under the oil cap! The white substance went away when I decided to take a 2hrs drive non-stop.

I am wondering if the CVV is clogged and it's noticeable in the cold weather. By why restarting the car solves the problem if the CVV is clogged?

Anyway, here's my question: can I delete the CVV? Will it affect the engine/mpg negatively? Will my car pass emission test if the CVV is deleted?

 

[borntodeal]

I'd try to do some basic engine tune-up hygiene:

-- Clean or replace the intake air filter
-- clean the MAF, and the throttle body plates (front and back) with CRC
-- Inspect, clean or replace the spark plugs
-- Check, clean or replace the fuel pump and fuel filter
-- Run a scan for any stored error codes. Clear them and reset the adaptations

Then test again.

I appreciate your insights here. I own a 2002 E39 (530i) and it runs nicely and has been serving me well for over 10 years.

Very recently, it has had a hard time cold starting below 60 degrees outside. I use starter spray and that helps a bit. Eventually, after some amount of cranking it will start up. Once running, it is operating smoothly.

I read all of the above and I wanted to ask your opinion about this situation.

Labor in LA is pretty high and I've found that the very honest mechanic I use will typically just replace what is wrong with my car and then other things start failing along the way, e.g. he replaced one coil then three more failed. I asked him to simply replace them all and spark plugs too.

If you were to suggest all possible things causing the cold start and if I wanted to simply replace everything that could be potentially going wrong that is causing hard cold starts, what would be your list of items to replace with new that would eliminate most possibilities?

 

[mattmar1]

fuel pump is possible. check the fuel pressure when its running (there is a schrader valve on the fuel rail), should be reading 50 psi. then after engine shutoff it should only drop a small amount in the first hour. there is a check valve in the fuel pump that is supposed to keep the pressure up, and when the key is turned to pos 2 the pump will run for 2 seconds to prime, but if theres no fuel in the line it doesnt have a chance to. do you have a smell of gas when trying to start the car? an injector can be leaking and giving the same result.

 

[borntodeal]

Thank you for your response. This is a 2002 and I have never replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the injectors. Would you recommend having them all replaced as a matter of course? The vehicle has more than 210,000 miles on it.

 

[mattmar1]

depends on if you willing to just throw money at it or of diagnose and correct it. if the pump and filter have 200+k miles on em and theyre original, i would replace them as a PM thing.

 

[borntodeal]

Thank you so much for this advice, where do recommend purchasing these two items? The local mechanic buys aftermarket from a local distributor and I'd prefer to buy parts when I can see other customer reviews.

 

[mattmar1]

pierburg brand for the fuel pump, mahle for the filter. aftermarket for the pump is questionable.
getting a read of your fuel pressure will give you info as to where the issue may be, whether were going in the right direction or not. its kind of difficult to figure out across the distance at times. this is just my thoughts on where to start.

 

[borntodeal]

You are very generous with your time. Thank you. My vehicle only has a hard time starting cold. Replacing coils and plugs is easy for me to do and costs very little, do you recommend that also?

 

[mattmar1]

how old are they, or how many miles on them?
found out what the fuel pressure is, preferably after the car sits for an hour or more, yet? then when running?

 

[borntodeal]

I just returned from the shop and the technician states the fuel pump is good, he wants to replace both camshaft sensors and the rear oxygen sensor upstream. He suggested that I order the parts. The local distributor is pricey (he said). He is a good guy. He recommended all three because they are throwing codes and because the labor is minimal about two hours total. Do you have any brands you like?

 

[mattmar1]

oe or oem brand...fcpeuro sells them and offers a lifetime warranty on everything they sell.
he's saying codes for both cam sensors and one of the 02's? those in themselves could cause what youre seeing. werent aware of that earlier?