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E39 cold start problem - resolved with a restart?

8888 Views 66 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  borntodeal
Hello,

I have a 2003 530i that has a hard time when it's cold outside. Yesterday the temperature was about 16C (in Toronto), so it was below 20C for the first time in few months and the car started but there was no power. Eventually when I had stopped at a stop sign the car gave me errors and was about to shut down so I turned it off. Right away I started it and it started just find. No codes, no loss of power...nothing wrong, perfectly fine!

This is not the first time it has happened. I had cold start problems with it last winter, but the problem was always resolved by restarting the engine.

My question is this: what can cause cold start problems that can be resolved with a restart?

^The reason I am phrasing the question like this because there are a lot of things that can cause a cold start problem but don't get resolved with a restart. I am trying to narrow down the list by knowing that an immediate restart always resolved the problem!

Thank you in advance for your help! :)
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Someone I spoke with thinks that the coils and plugs should be changed to see if that corrects the issue. Are these vulnerable to cold temperatures?
not really....its worth looking at but it would take 6 separate cylinder failures to cause...seems as if youve a common point of fail issue
Point well made. Thank you. What else could possibly cause no start in the 40's and low 50's and instant start-up when the ambient temperature is higher? Could it be a relay?
relay possible, could be binding mechanically...any electric or or electronic component possible. is 45 the cutoff point? wont start below 45 as well?
relay possible, could be binding mechanically...any electric or or electronic component possible. is 45 the cutoff point? wont start below 45 as well?
It will never start below 45 degrees. Which relay?
fuel pump? DME?
Break out the heat gun, stick it underneath the hood and warm up the DME/ECU. If that doesn’t work, heat up the back of the glove box with it where your fuel pump relay is, just don’t melt anything. Get an Infrared temp gauge and when it gets to 45 degrees in those spots, try and start it. Maybe there is a connection that is right on the edge of being broken. I guess I’d be trying something like that. Just go easy with the heat gun.
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Break out the heat gun, stick it underneath the hood and warm up the DME/ECU. If that doesn’t work, heat up the back of the glove box with it where your fuel pump relay is, just don’t melt anything. Get an Infrared temp gauge and when it gets to 45 degrees in those spots, try and start it. Maybe there is a connection that is right on the edge of being broken. I guess I’d be trying something like that. Just go easy with the heat gun.
Very wise idea, how about just a hair dryer? That won't melt anything and gets pretty warm.
itll work, just take longer
All those parts thrown at your car by the mechanic last year, just wondering what brands they are cause those items in particular you need to use quality replacements, I don’t suppose you know do you..?
  1. replaced two oxygen sensors
  2. replaced the mass airflow meter
  3. replaced both camshaft sensors
  4. replaced the crankshaft sensor
I do not have the brands at hand, however the mechanic and I both discuss this and agree on top makers such as Bosch, BMW, VDO, we do not use lower quality items when fixing important things such as sensors.
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not saying this has happened to you, but there are fake parts to be found around...
How old is your battery ? Is it AGM -- it does not like cold weather- ?? I assume your tech did check and test the battery and alternator before throwing all those parts at the car.
How old is your battery ? Is it AGM -- it does not like cold weather- ?? I assume your tech did check and test the battery and alternator before throwing all those parts at the car.
The battery and alternator are doing well. Still trying to determine why the vehicle won't start in the 40 degrees range.
Well, not to steal your thread, but I'd like to know the actual cause myself, as I am having the same problem with my car.

As I recently did some major engine work (valves, heads, timing chains and guides) I have installed a new battery-fully charged-, new alternator, new MAF, and new fuel pump. But the car does not want to start: it cranks well for about 10 seconds and then dies. And it gives no error codes..!!

Though this year we have a cold winter in my neck-of-wood , with a max daily temp of 45 degrees. So, maybe ..?..:mad:
Well, not to steal your thread, but I'd like to know the actual cause myself, as I am having the same problem with my car.

As I recently did some major engine work (valves, heads, timing chains and guides) I have installed a new battery-fully charged-, new alternator, new MAF, and new fuel pump. But the car does not want to start: it cranks well for about 10 seconds and then dies. And it gives no error codes..!!

Though this year we have a cold winter in my neck-of-wood , with a max daily temp of 45 degrees. So, maybe ..?..:mad:
I hope that we both find out what is going on.
Yep.
After making sure the fuel pressure, battery voltage and vaccum-air supply are ok, some internet denizens point to the ignition switch or fuel pump relay as the most likely culprits. They can get stuck open or closed in cold weather.
Others prefer pointing to the camshaft or crankshaft sensors, though I doubt it. Because these sensors normally leave an error code when if they fail or malfunction. And I do not have any error code present in this situation.
the FP relay has been brought up, nothing has been stated whether its output has been been checked or the relay changed. if fuel pressure is there, the relay is working.
Alright, then we are left with the ignition switch : Does it get stuck or freeze in cold weather ? Any quick test to verify that it is working , short of removing its cover and probing its pins with a multi-meter??
Or is it an electric connection to the starter that gets stuck ??
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