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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so let me start in saying that i searched and i really didnt fint what i want. i want alot of bass!! bsw didnt really fit my deeds neither did all the bass links and what not. i love hip hop and rock music. I want a sub or subs that will be able to hit hard and deep. i dont want to have a rattling trunk. I want the music to fill the cabin so can i ask for some suggestions. can someone suggest door speakers and subs and amps for like 1100$
 

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In this forum alone, there are 250+ posts found with "subwoofer" and another 250+ with "bass" (many could be the same post), so surely one of them is what you want. OK, here's another ...

If you want hard hitting bass and don't want the rattling trunk, don't put the sub in the trunk (ask me how know!) You can try some in-cabin smaller subs - Focal makes a nice 5.25, but you'll need several. You can also try one of the flat subs and put it under a seat. Yet another strategy is to put a sub in the rear armrest. The best general strategy for deep bass is to get the most out of the main speakers as possible. Enlarging the enclosures from the 5.25 to 6.5 is one way to go.

If you do want the sub in the trunk, vent it into the cabin as much as possible.


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i want the sub in the trunk. I dont like the way small subs sound especially thin ones. you dont get what you pay for.I know you can dynamat the trunk. But what i am asking is basically what door speakers and sub and amp can i get for the best bang for the buck
 

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You can probably get a lot more and better feedback by going to the Car Audio Forum.
 

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If you want to avoid a lot of the rattle with a sub in the trunk get a bandpass box you know the one with the Plexiglas vs a sealed box. Like mentioned before go get 6.5 speakers in the doors. TMA audio makes pretty good stuff. They also wont rape your pocket book. They are owned by JL audio and if I had to replace speakers on any of my cars that would be my first option because of their quality and price range. I don't go to sound shows so I don't need 6546545646546432487879874 watts in my trunk to power all my speakers. Good luck.
 

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don't forget in investing on a really good head unit too =)...

i highly recommend one of the new double din units of pioneer =)...just took the plunge...and am loving the setup =)!
 

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Get a digital time correction processor.

Speakers, and amps, and power cannot overcome physics.

Using time correction to delay the front speakers audio by a few milliseconds dramatically cuts down on the phase cancellation of low frequencies. This can dramatically improve mid-bass response, even from the existing speakers.

Start with the farthest speaker from the driver's seat. For ever other speaker, delay the sound by 1 millisecond for every foot closer that the speaker is to you relative to the farthest speaker. So typically, you would delay the left rear and front right speaker by 1 or 2 ms, and the driver door speaker by 3-4 ms.

But if you want serious sub bass, the only way to do that is with extra subs in the trunk.
Still, time correction processing works wonders on any sound system for tonal response and clarity.

At a minimum, you should have the ski pass-thru option to allow the bass to enter the cabin.

The stock head unit is not that bad.
Just concentrate on the speakers and amps.

I like the Alpine PXE H650 processor. Does digital time correction and has a 512 band EQ. It uses the accessory microphone to tune the EQ curve to the response of the speakers and response of the vehicle interior. It can also monitor the response of the speakers at varying volumes and mildly tweak the EQ curve, to account for varying speaker efficiency at different input power levels.

The processor also neutralizes the factory EQ curves pre-programmed into the head unit to compensate for poor quality speakers. This is useful for when upgrading the stock speakers to aftermarket speakers.

As much improvement as you get from changing the speakers and amps, you'll get that much improvement again with the alpine processor.
 

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i'm with above..speakers + amp and then sub last.. and slim line subs does not mean bad quality, I have a pioneer 12" slimline sub and if i wanted to be an ass and have my boot vibrate I can (not that I do) and the clarity from it is seriously clean!

i'm actually about to downgrade to a powered sub that I can fit in my rear seats arm rest as much of a fan of bass that i am.. I just don't like a big heavy box in my boot..

but yes..each to their own.. depending on what type of music you like.
 

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Hi - I had an E39 523i for 5 years and wanted good bass, and the only way to get really good deep bass that I found was to have the sub woofer in the boot firing through the rear shelf.

If you need excellent bass, it is the only way. I do agree with the previous contributors though that you must have a good head unit, great speakers and good amplifiers set up prior to deciding if you really need to install a subwoofer.

I normally do all the sound installs by myself but this project needed the specialist services of a decent audio shop. The guys did an excellent job, drilling through the rear shelf, constructing a massive sub box which then fired up via two tubes into the rear of the car and the bass reflected from the rear windscreen to produce an amazing lovely bass sound, whilst acoustic carpet hid the fact that such a device was lurking in the boot.

Obviously this is not an inexpensive project, and you sacrifice half the boot space! But I knew I would keep the car for at least 3 years and I did a load of motorway driving, adding 150,000 miles to the car during those 5 years.

Unfortunately the computer in the car started playing up at 210,000 miles and I had to let her go :-(

Pics of the sub installed, uninstalled and out by the side of the car can be found at:
http://www.thejordans.biz/e39 http://www.thejordans.biz/e39
 
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